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Engine work need advice


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Going to be pulling my engine soon for my clutch and I've had this cold start issue for a while which caused stalling, and a rough idle. Everything always ran smoothly after it warmed up.

 

I suspected tight valves but was forced to live with it for a while. Probably only put 6k miles on the car since I bought it. I found out engine was replaced some time before I bought it. Not sure what exactly was wrong or done to it but it's in my hands now.

 

Recently got a camera to take a look inside the cylinders and took some pictures.

 

Cylinder 2

 

Xg16l0i.jpg

 

Cylinder 4

 

BiDyOZP.jpg

 

Cylinder 1

 

WQlwohR.jpg

 

Cylinder 3

 

jAFzfm1.jpg

 

 

I'm somewhat new to working on cars but cylinder 4 certainly looks wrong and looks like something melted a little on 3 (valve?)

 

Also pretty sure they're not supposed to be blue, not sure if that's just the camera or from coolant getting in there. (Head gaskets?)

 

Engine is coming out so just want to get an idea of the project I've got on my hands.

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Looks like extra carbon on 4 but that's not out of the ordinary from what I understand about these engines. I'm by no means an expert, but your pistons look pretty normal. The blue hue is probably a combination of the camera and the led light.

Do a leakdown with the engine out and I'd definitely check clearances for the valves since you're pulling it anyway. If it's fine you're just out valve cover gaskets and a little gasket maker sealant.

You have any burning oil issues? Or vacuum leak issues? I may be wrong but I figure a head gasket issue would be pretty obvious by either getting hydrocarbons in your coolant or coolant out of the tailpipe

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I'd be mostly concerned about the nice clean silver area off to the right side of the pic of cyl #2. I would think that that piston might be nice and clean there because some water is getting in on that side of the cylinder and giving it a steam cleaning.

 

I have read that when head gaskets are going they can go ever so slightly causing some water leakage when cold, and then seal up again as the metal of the block and head heat up and expand.

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Just for reference of what my pistons looked like when I did the heads at 124k. First picture are 2 and 4 and the next one 1 & 3.

 

My piston tops

 

4 was by far the one that had the most carbon buildup. I had no headgasket/ coolant issues. Just oil leakage from the rear main and some burning due to a valve guide dropping. That killed my valve.

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Cylinder #2 was the one that gave me misfires a while back. I also do seem to be burning oil, smokey cold starts, etc. So if it is indeed the head gasket. Should both sides be done when it's out?
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If you're doing headgaskets you do both. If you have tight valves or need one of the heads done, I'd do both. The biggest labor cost is pulling the engine and putting it back. Anything you're thinking about doing better off just doing it once right. I learned my lesson the hard way.
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  • 2 weeks later...
So a catch can/AOS would help with this?

 

I also have been burning oil. Was a quart low a few weeks ago only 1500 miles or so after an oil change.

 

If there's enough blow by to get up into the intercooler, then an AOS can help. Blow by is sort of a necessary compromise as long as it's minimal from what I understand.

 

The low oil part I'd try to figure out where you're losing it. Could be something simple like a bad seal. Since you're pulling the engine, if you have a stand check that oil rings are scrapping properly. That was apparently my main issue which led to the burned valves.

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If there's enough blow by to get up into the intercooler, then an AOS can help. Blow by is sort of a necessary compromise as long as it's minimal from what I understand.

 

The low oil part I'd try to figure out where you're losing it. Could be something simple like a bad seal. Since you're pulling the engine, if you have a stand check that oil rings are scrapping properly. That was apparently my main issue which led to the burned valves.

 

+1 to everything Shadow said.

 

Blow-by is used to help lubricate your BPV somewhat too. I'm planning on installing a Grimmspeed AOS at some stage, just haven't got around to confirming which one fits our cars :redface:

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Just clean out intakes and make sure everything is proper and check the valve clearances and take care of them if they are too tight as well.

 

Also fresh seals on the heads if you can. It won't hurt.

 

Fresh heads and a clean and clear intake is a peace of mind. Also check the banjo bolt filter.

453747.png
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  • 3 weeks later...

Cylinder 2... I don't know much about these engines but this can't be normal? It looks like this groove was made intentionally up and down the cylinder wall.

 

Oo7CGyg.jpg

 

Cylinder 2 and 4

 

uxP8i08.jpg

 

Valves

 

nMXrnQ0.jpg

 

Exhaust valves Cylinder 2

 

12AUxyh.jpg

 

Exhaust valves Cylinder 4 (1 and 3 look similar)

 

DParlCV.jpg

 

Thoughts?

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You need to get that groove out of that cylinder, definitely not supposed to be there. That would explain all your blow-by. I wouldn't be surprised if an oil control ring wasn't installed properly causing that gouge. No way a competent mechanic would do that intentionally. So either see if you can have it machined out, and install oversized pistons, or you need a new block. I am not sure which way I would go, it would be a tight race between over-sized pistons and new short block. Time would be an issue for me as well.
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MGT

I would try to find out if the engine was replaced by Subaru or just some shop if you can. That gouge is definitely from one of the rings and most likely an oil ring like FLlegacy mentioned. Tough to get any kind of warranty but if Subaru did it you can at least ask. Maybe cut you a break on a short block. It's gonna be tough to get in under the cost of a new short block, depending on how much machine shop work the block will need done.

No sugar coating this is going to hurt the budget, but it'll be a new engine when you're done.

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Engine was replaced at a Subaru dealership in Ohio before I bought the car according to service records. I am most likely going to go the short block route and I suppose I could at least attempt to get some sympathy from the dealership. My hopes aren't too high though, so worst case scenario do I go with the direct EJ255 replacement or an sti short block?
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