Advice Needed: Selling LGT in SoCal with CEL

[PutnamCO]

I think my LGT is on it's way out. Over the weekend, I started getting misfire cylinder #1 codes that are happening several times a day. I replaced both the plug and coilpack, but that did not change anything. I can't feel or hear anything, but with a 4-month old, I don't have the time or energy to deal with what is likely either a new short block, valve work, or both.

 

I know that for a private sale in CA, I have to have a smog certificate from the last 90 days, which is now impossible. I have found a used S4 at a dealership, but in reading online, it looks like I can't trade my car in if it is not smog-ready, and that I could even be held liable in the future if the dealer finds out it was not.

 

The only other possibility I can think of is to set-up some sort of sale with someone local that would involve the following:

1. A small deposit from the buyer. Buyer agrees to take the car directly to a shop.

2. Buyer fixes car and passes smog.

3. Seller is paid remaining balance and signs over the title.

 

I certainly don't know the legality of the above arrangement, and it would obviously require trust (and probably a legal contract) from both parties, but I really can't think of any other options.

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[TickerPyro]

You can always use Tactrix to disable the CEL code. 180$ fix. Then run it (as long as you are sure that it is ok). Are you low on oil? What was that cylinder like when you pulled the plug (more oil on it than the others, or a fried electrode)? Also may want to make sure you have proper fuel going to each cylinder. Swap INJ 1 and 3 and see if that makes a difference. Remember, you are E85 and some injectors do not like that.

[PutnamCO]

You can always use Tactrix to disable the CEL code. 180$ fix. Then run it (as long as you are sure that it is ok). Are you low on oil? What was that cylinder like when you pulled the plug (more oil on it than the others, or a fried electrode)? Also may want to make sure you have proper fuel going to each cylinder. Swap INJ 1 and 3 and see if that makes a difference. Remember, you are E85 and some injectors do not like that.

 

Thanks, I appreciate the ideas. Disabling the CEL sounds like the best plan. Does anyone know if that will show up on a smog test?

 

Oil is all good, plug looked perfect, and I had the injectors cleaned less than 10k ago. I may have a chance to swap the injectors this week, but I'm thinking it may be an exhaust valve.

 

If anyone local has a tactrix and wants some cash to disable the CEL, please let me know. I literally gave away my tactrix and mini PC when I told myself (and my wife) I was done fiddling with the car.

[TickerPyro]

an altered ecu should not show up on any test because it does not read your actual ecu. Only checks for ecu faults and mileage since last fault. That is all outer layer stuff designed for State Inspections.

As for a bad valve or valve seal, that may burn oil during your test, but because you are running E85 you may be able to get away with it.

Just for a piece of advice about passing emissions; NEVER bring your car cold to the dyno.

[PutnamCO]

an altered ecu should not show up on any test because it does not read your actual ecu. Only checks for ecu faults and mileage since last fault. That is all outer layer stuff designed for State Inspections.

As for a bad valve or valve seal, that may burn oil during your test, but because you are running E85 you may be able to get away with it.

Just for a piece of advice about passing emissions; NEVER bring your car cold to the dyno.

 

I hope so, thanks for your help. I found a stock EBCS which I need to pass smog, so hopefully I'll squeek by.

[TickerPyro]

Let us know how it goes. Also, you can go with a heavier oil as long as you are not dropping into the 30 and 40's overnight and starting up super cold. This will help with blowbye on rings and leaking of seals as well.

[PutnamCO]

Looks like I might have lucked out and it may just be the injectors. I had a shop run compression and it was 125. Swapped injectors and the misfire followed the bad injector. Hand to thought it was the injectors since they'd just been cleaned, but maybe 80k(?) of consecutive E85 use took its toll. I've ordered replacement injectors, and am hoping that since the old ones were cleaned less than 10k ago (and all were flowing at nearly 100%), swapping all four will fix the problem.

[TickerPyro]

So you did what I said in Post #1? I think mainly the DW injectors are the only real deal E85 built Injectors. Lots of places claim to work on E85 but then burn out after 50k. Injectors, as long as you run Seafoam or 44k PE by BG every (roughly) 10k, and use quality gas stations (I am a CITGO, Shell, Conoco Phillips, and Sunoco Man) should last 150k easy.

This is why it is always smart to run with no less than 1/3 of a tank as not to pick up any tiny deposits. Also, a quick fix is to go buy a PLASTIC In-Line filter (the one you would find on a lawn mover) they are 10$ at most. You cut the rubber and fill it and use the spring clamps. This will prevent any terrible particulate from making it's way to injector tips, thus never needing to clean them.

[PutnamCO]

Yes, swapped injectors between #1 and #2, and now the misfire is in #2. Once I get the misfire to disappear, I'm going to be selling the car. Not enough time on my hands to handle any issues that come up. Thanks again for your help.

[xrayspecs]

So you did what I said in Post #1? I think mainly the DW injectors are the only real deal E85 built Injectors. Lots of places claim to work on E85 but then burn out after 50k. Injectors, as long as you run Seafoam or 44k PE by BG every (roughly) 10k, and use quality gas stations (I am a CITGO, Shell, Conoco Phillips, and Sunoco Man) should last 150k easy.

This is why it is always smart to run with no less than 1/3 of a tank as not to pick up any tiny deposits. Also, a quick fix is to go buy a PLASTIC In-Line filter (the one you would find on a lawn mover) they are 10$ at most. You cut the rubber and fill it and use the spring clamps. This will prevent any terrible particulate from making it's way to injector tips, thus never needing to clean them.

 

ive done the inline clear baldwin filter on stuff all the time, they excell at picking up all the stuff the in tank filters seem to miss, just be sure to put it somewhere youll see it semi regularly cause filters that work tend to load quickly.

[TickerPyro]

Yes, swapped injectors between #1 and #2, and now the misfire is in #2. Once I get the misfire to disappear, I'm going to be selling the car. Not enough time on my hands to handle any issues that come up. Thanks again for your help.

 

NP boss. Sorry that we will be losing a member. Hopefully you find another baby that needs love and stop back in. As for the fix, what you running for inj, DW 880? If not i would offer them up as a suggestion or the 1100 dependant on the power you make. Also im not sure if you are fixing just 1 injector or the set.

You should still be able to marketplace 3 e85 injectors if you do get a new set.

Just make sure the gaskets are in pristine shape for E85. The vapor that escapes bad seals can cause a vacuum effect and pop codes.

Be well Put,

Ticker

[PutnamCO]

I am running Power Enterprise 850's, and after scouring the internet (and making orders with 2 vendors who listed them in-stock online) there are none available. As a result, in order to be driven, the car needs new injectors and a new tune. Unfortunately, I don't have time to deal with that, so I'll either be trading it in or unloading it for cheap in its current condition. The only thing I plan to do is have someone disable CELs so I can pass smog.

 

Thanks again.

[Gabo]

I am running Power Enterprise 850's, and after scouring the internet (and making orders with 2 vendors who listed them in-stock online) there are none available. As a result, in order to be driven, the car needs new injectors and a new tune. Unfortunately, I don't have time to deal with that, so I'll either be trading it in or unloading it for cheap in its current condition. The only thing I plan to do is have someone disable CELs so I can pass smog.

 

Thanks again.

 

Why not send your current injectors to RC Engineering for cleaning? They are here in CA and have very fast turnaround times.

[PutnamCO]

Why not send your current injectors to RC Engineering for cleaning? They are here in CA and have very fast turnaround times.

 

That is a good point. I had them cleaned less than 10k ago by RC Engineering, so I'm worried that cleaning isn't the problem. I may consider that though.

[TickerPyro]

That is a good point. I had them cleaned less than 10k ago by RC Engineering, so I'm worried that cleaning isn't the problem. I may consider that though.

 

Any reputable shop that cleans injectors will also test them to see if they are running at the correct voltage and hitting timing. It takes 2 mins to setup to test for and they can sell you more injectors if yours are shot. So i would go back with both Inj, make a small mark on the malfunctioning one, and let them run the test. If they tell you they are fine, you know they didn't do the testing and if they say both are shot, you will know it is a shady shop. Then ask for a PRINTOUT. It never hurts to question a known answer when it comes to shops. I have had rave reviews by some big name people/businesses be cut down by personal experience.

[PutnamCO]

RC Engineering did not check anything besides spray pattern and rate, which were all perfect after cleaning. The shop that I took the car to last week told me two of the injectors are bad, and they referred to the voltage being off.

 

I have listed the car for sale, as I cannot spend anymore time or money on it.

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