GTEASER Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 I do know the hose was replaced about a year ago since it had a crack.Still, if its the stock style with the couplers, remove the couplers and make sure the clamps are tight. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 Starting at .812 is normal (it defaults to whatever it was when you switched the key off up to a maximum of .812), and it should hop right up to 1.000 pretty quickly. Accelerating in 3rd gear and holding 2-3 pounds of boost seems to be a sure-fire way to get it to climb. What you're seeing is pretty much the same as what I see on a regular basis, and I haven't launched parts out the side of the block yet, so you're probably safe. That's the downside of having more gauges, you come up with more things to worry about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 That's the downside of having more gauges, you come up with more things to worry about. Guilty. And having 2 turbo Subarus makes it worse. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted November 28, 2017 Author Share Posted November 28, 2017 Still, if its the stock style with the couplers, remove the couplers and make sure the clamps are tight. I was checking out pictures of the factory hose. Are you talking about the part under the hose clamp? http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=186346&thumb=1&d=1465419295 Took the pic from your install thread . If those are the couplers you are talking about, why in the world would they use that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 The throttle body coupler itself is pretty stiff hose, the idea was probably to have soft rubber to make a good seal around the tb and reinforced hose. Later iterations of this hose had the ends glued to the hose itself where the early ones were seperate "gaskets". In their defense, the Perrin hose is a pita to put on, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 IIf those are the couplers you are talking about, why in the world would they use that? To make a farting sound when you go over factory boost levels. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/hvac-fart-whine-under-heavy-boost-185781.html?t=185781&highlight=fart+sound GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 ..Reset your ECU ... With an AP, does that mean just changing map to existing one or is there an easier way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 3 ways to reset ECU... 1) disconnect battery (negative terminal) for a few minutes. 2) in the AP menu select "Reset ECU". 3) in the AP menu select "Reflash" and either pick the existing map or a new map. I usually just us the AP to reset the ECU or reflash my map. Disconnecting the battery wipes your radio settings. You always know when you have reset the ECU properly because the car doesn't start immediately when cranked over, it takes a few cranks. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 After a reset, turn your key on and let it sit for minute or so to let the throttle relearn its position then start it up, and once again let it idle for a couple minutes to learn the throttle position and maf readings before trying to drive off. If you do that it should start right up on the first try and then not stall when you try to drive off the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted November 29, 2017 Author Share Posted November 29, 2017 3 ways to reset ECU... 1) disconnect battery (negative terminal) for a few minutes. 2) in the AP menu select "Reset ECU". 3) in the AP menu select "Reflash" and either pick the existing map or a new map. I usually just us the AP to reset the ECU or reflash my map. Disconnecting the battery wipes your radio settings. You always know when you have reset the ECU properly because the car doesn't start immediately when cranked over, it takes a few cranks. I ended up disconnecting the battery. Next time I will use the AP (didn't know it could do that). Anyway, I cleaned the MAF with the CRC MAF cleaner last night, reset the ECU and drove it to work this morning (fired right up). The main thing I noticed was it seemed to run smoother. I checked the clamps on the throttle body hose and the one I could get a screwdriver on was tight. There was a wire loom attached to the plastic intake didn't want to move in the way of the other one. On a side note, Advance Auto has a BOGO on a few of the CRC products, so I got the MAF cleaner and Throttle Body Cleaner. The sale is good through today . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BustedKnuckles1122 Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 I'd go with suspension myself, since I feel these cars come with a decent amount of stock power. Personally, I like to take high speed corners and stick to the ground. I like the Fortune Auto 500 series coilovers I have. But I believe they are a bit more than what ur looking to spend. I think they run about 300/ea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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