Falcor Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 I made a deal with my wife that when we sold the Outback, I would get $500 to spend on the GT. Well, with black friday deals running I have a list, but I am indecisive (just ask my wife). Here are the option "packages" I have came up with. Please tell me your thoughts on which would be the best first mod. FYI, it has about 68k on it. Option 1 - XRT Tune XRT Tune - $375.00 Tactrix Openport 2.0 Cable - $170.00 Total - $545.00 Option 2 - Cobb Tune COBB ACCESSPORT V3 - $585.00 10% Black Friday Sale Option 3 - Trans/Tint Tint Windows - $250.00 Rear Bumper Cover - $46.44 Spare Key - $50.00 Boomba Short Shift Trans Plate - $95.00 Perrin Shifter Bushing - $22.50 Washer - $0.40 Perrin Shift Stop - $38.70 Total - $503.04 Option 4 - Trans/Suspension Perrin Steering Dampener Lockdown Kit - $72.90 Forester Rear Sway Bar 20mm - $90.00 13-14 Front Sway Bar 26mm - $66.60 Bushings - $5.84 Spare Key - $50.00 Boomba Short Shift Trans Plate - $95.00 Perrin Shifter Bushing - $22.50 Washer - $0.40 Perrin Shift Stop - $38.70 Clutch Damper Valve Delete - $24.56 Total - $466.50 Option 5 - Exhaust Nameless Performance 5" Muffled Axlebacks - $479.00 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JF1GG29 Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 I think go with the Cobb. It's relatively easy to sell later on and you can run a stage 1 tune right away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 I'd go with the Accessport, and as many of the things from option 4 as you can sneak in there. You can take the FSB off the list unless you plan to pull the engine for something, though, you can't (un)install that with the engine in place. Might be able to sneak it in if you unbolt the mounts and jack it up, but it's not as easy as the RSB. The spare key would probably be the responsible way to go, if you only got one with the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted November 17, 2017 Author Share Posted November 17, 2017 I'd go with the Accessport, and as many of the things from option 4 as you can sneak in there. You can take the FSB off the list unless you plan to pull the engine for something, though, you can't (un)install that with the engine in place. Might be able to sneak it in if you unbolt the mounts and jack it up, but it's not as easy as the RSB. The spare key would probably be the responsible way to go, if you only got one with the car. I was not sure if the FSB would go in or not, good to know. And yes, the PO could not find the second key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcg_ Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 I would absolutely pick option 6 - Upgraded strut/springs. Then, option 1. In my experience, the most important thing I've modded on my '10 LGT was upgraded struts/springs. FWIW, I have a Bilstein/Eibach combo and love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 The 3.6R one won't, but the '10-'12 GT and 2.5i use the same FSB, and the only thing that changed between the '12 and '13 2.5i FSB is the diameter, so there's no reason it shouldn't. Suspension is definitely something to put high up on the list. Then again, it's coming up on winter, maybe put that one off for a while. Like, until March or April. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted November 17, 2017 Author Share Posted November 17, 2017 I would absolutely pick option 6 - Upgraded strut/springs. Then, option 1. In my experience, the most important thing I've modded on my '10 LGT was upgraded struts/springs. FWIW, I have a Bilstein/Eibach combo and love it. Adding fuel to the fire . Honestly, as of right now the suspension is not bad in my mind. Now, keep in mind I came from an Outback, and before that a lifted 05' Wrangler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcg_ Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 The 3.6R one won't, but the '10-'12 GT and 2.5i use the same FSB, and the only thing that changed between the '12 and '13 2.5i FSB is the diameter, so there's no reason it shouldn't. Yikes, I guess I guilty of misinformation! I will edit my post in view thereof. This really needs to be in the sticky! I thought there were bends missing in the OEM 2.5i bar like the OEM 3.6R bar! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 I would do the ap or xrt tune first, I never felt like the suspension was all that bad until stage 1, then the rise and dive of the front end was amplified. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 Ultimately, I would add the tune, shifter and suspension to make the LGT into a proper performance sedan. The tune will really wake the engine up over the stock tune get rid of the knock, I would probably do that 1st, but I would put the suspension & shifter as 1a & 1b. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coco26 Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 Ultimately, I would add the tune, shifter and suspension to make the LGT into a proper performance sedan. The tune will really wake the engine up over the stock tune get rid of the knock, I would probably do that 1st, but I would put the suspension & shifter as 1a & 1b. ...this. I would do the ap or xrt tune first, I never felt like the suspension was all that bad until stage 1, then the rise and dive of the front end was amplified. ...and this. I've had people complain of seasickness when I get on it and am shifting. I've done shifter and tune, and suspension is happening the second I move out of the snow region in January. You can get cheap coils (won't last as long as the strut/spring setups, but...they're cheap) for around your $500 limit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 I would get 2013 2014 springs and struts since it seems you are mostly happy with the stock setup. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Unless you want what happened to Beck, to happen to you, I would get her off the stock tune and on the Cobb Stage1 tune immediately!!! Plus with the AP, you get to play with monitoring your motor. The kick in the pants that you get from 16psi in first gear will require that you purchase new undies. Get that expensive one out of the way first. Then the little ones like the steering damper lockdown, clutch damper delete, shift adapter, shift bushing, rears sway bar, etc are all little palatable bites to be taken out of a paycheck here or there. And start saving up for suspension stuff, because with the added power from a Stage1 tune, the suspension will start to show it shortcomings quickly. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 I also recommend getting off the stock tune and going with AP. Then shifter parts since those are relatively inexpensive. But like GTEASER said, the suspension will show its inadequacies after going stage 1 My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 I'd put the damper delete way up at the top of the list, along with the shifter bushing. Shift stop you can live without for a bit, same with the steering damper lockdown, and I still don't have a short-shift plate (although I do have the OEM STI short shifter). RSB is a nice upgrade (it's a suspension band-aid that only really works well on smooth pavement, but it's an upgrade) as well. If it were my money, I'd do the spare key, damper delete, shifter bushing (and you can just as easily use an M8 x 25mm or 5/16" x 1" fender washer in place of the OEM piece), shift stop, RSB, and Accessport, maybe toss in the steering damper lockdown if you get something better than a subscription to the Jelly of the Month Club as a Christmas bonus. You'll have plenty of fun with the straight-line speed for a while, and once you start looking at suspension, your wallet will have recovered a bit. Puts you a little ways above the $500 target, but you could put off the RSB for a bit, and maybe look around the used market for an AP ($450-$500 vs. $585). You can always propose the shifter bushing and damper delete as stocking-stuffers, too... Yikes, I guess I guilty of misinformation! I will edit my post in view thereof. This really needs to be in the sticky! I thought there were bends missing in the OEM 2.5i bar like the OEM 3.6R bar! No worries, and you had me kinda second-guessing myself- I think I may have been the guy who originally did the legwork and found that it *should* fit, but I haven't done it myself, and although I've suggested it to a few people, I don't remember seeing where anyone has actually installed it. I'm sure GTEASER has something stashed away in his memory banks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
11boostedgt Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 I would also go ap.. I’m on the hunt for a used one as we speak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 I'm sure GTEASER has something stashed away in his memory banks... I got nuthin'. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Ruh roh... Well, they have the same base part number, and it looks like both were revised at about the same time. All of the other part numbers in the "front suspension" breakdowns (includes LCAs, mounts, and end links) are the same between '12 and '13 aside from the bushings. This is close enough that I'd call it valid if I was at work and it was something that was being sold to a customer, if that's any consolation to anyone who's on the fence. It also shows the part numbers being the same for the 2.5i and the 3.6R, and I don't know that I remember that being the case. Would certainly make sense if they were the same from a parts stock perspective, though, and the "what this fits" interchange shows Legacy and Outback 2.5i/3.6R/GT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted November 18, 2017 Author Share Posted November 18, 2017 It looks like the general consensus is tune or suspension. Question, why Cobb over XRT? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 The ease of use, ability to constantly monitor your motor, ability to easily switch maps (like the anti-theft or valet maps), and easy access to a lot of tuners. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 I love my suspension, but for shear fun the ap will be your best bang for your buck. It will bring countless smiles to your face. That and it will open your eyes to the million other things you want to do to your car. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_A_ron Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Definitely the damper delete and some of the suspension mods listed above. I have 2 extra damper deletes lying around PM if you want one. Build Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 I would say option 2, with Clutch Damper Valve Delete and if you could squeeze some extra $$ for an etune add that in. That would be the best reliable power gain you can get, bang for buck. The difference between stock and a stage 1 tune are night and day. Then at least that leaves you options when you have extra money to spend. You can slowly upgrade the rest of the options one by one as money opened up or. Gaining more power after the cobb ap/stage 1 etune begins getting costly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 OK, so my wife likes the idea of getting a new AP for the 1 year warranty. Is it worth it, or try to find a used unmarried one for $450-$500? One just sold on Denver's Craigslist today for $480. They are out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 OK, so my wife likes the idea of getting a new AP for the 1 year warranty. Is it worth it, or try to find a used unmarried one for $450-$500? One just sold on Denver's Craigslist today for $480. They are out there.I bought mine used on eBay, that said I think you should do what you feel comfortable with. The AP itself is fairly robust, the ots maps are available online so no biggie with those. If you buy used make sure you use a reputable seller. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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