Jacobpockros Posted December 5, 2021 Share Posted December 5, 2021 (edited) My pump works fine. It’ll probably still squeal though from air in the system. When I last had that problem found it was drawing air in through the washer on this bolt: Replace the washer on the bolt. I have a new one in the bag of hardware you have. Torque it to spec and then go a little tighter on it after that. It ended up fixing it. Then bleed the PS system really well and drive it. May have to drive it a little with the cap off if it still whines. I might have had P0107 before and I think it ended up going away once the car was being driven. Since it’s a stored code I would drive the car for a while and see if it goes away. If the P1507 is a pending code which it looks like it is, it can be from an exhaust leak or out of adjustment valves if it’s not the actual switch itself. If the switch doesn’t fix it hook it up to a smoke machine. This has fixed that problem on this car in the past. Edited December 6, 2021 by Jacobpockros Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted December 7, 2021 Author Share Posted December 7, 2021 (edited) Pulled everything out of the boxes and took a hard invintory of the items, for the future so theres no more "it should be in the boxes". This will be the third time I have gone through the boxes I know what is in them. Parts in my possession almost all used with unk milage unless followed with NIB(new in box). (1) '01 full oem BE exhaust less cat, unk milage (4) 28111AE270 16X6.5 ET48 oem snowflakes silver with tires that are dead (1) 20451AE06A OEM rear stabalizer bar. (1) 20410AC020 OEM front stabilizer D=20 (1) J5010LS300 Legacy All Weather Mats (1) 33-2154 K&N drop in filter (1) SPROL-H2186 Tien, spring silencer rubber, NIB. (1) GR-2 KYB rear shock (2) OEM rear GT-LTD fully asembled struts/springs/tophat (1) 20330AW17A OR 20330AE18A, OEM GT-LTD front coil spring not sure if its the left or right front spring. (2) 34140AC000 OEM inner tie rods. (1) 66150AE06AAC OEM cup holder console box. (1) unk gaskets looks incomplete 16---------B (1) 30216AA030 Cover complete clutch housing NIB (1) 34317AE030 Steering wheel trim lower NIB (1) 22659AA120 Air control gasket (IAC) NIB (20) chrome acorn style lug nuts (5) 90914007 Wheel well liner retainer clip bumper NIB (2) 802008270 Nut NIB (1) 909130047 Clip outer garnish NIB (1) 909140010 Clip undercover and exhaust cover NIB (1) lot misc fasteners (4) 904560042 Wheel well liner screw tapping screw hexagon head M5x16 NIB (1) 909220000 Grommit rear tail light W2200 NIB (1) 092316502 Hose clamp NIB. (1) 84920AE040 Bulb exterior tail and stop NIB (2) 85066GA110 Instrument panel bulb NIB (1) 8" section of exhaust tubing (1) air bag inflator, unk p/n (1) 00-04 horn and air bag (1) 00-04 black steering wheel with horn and airbag inflator (2) 44059AA010 Flange bolt exhaust pipe NIB (1) 20550AA010 Nut self lock front shock absorber NIB (1) 34621AC024 Power steering hose o-ring NIB (2) 34439AE00A O-ring connector oil pump NIB (1) 8311AE02A Airbag clockspring NIB (1) 22627AA13A MAP sensor (1) Throttle position sensor (1) 92175AE01A Parking brake cover. More small work on the car, lots of little things to do so that it feels like my car. Found the source of the P0107 code, and the hesitation at idle/off throttle. In my rush to put the air box back on one of the 6 times i took it on and off i forgot to reinstall the valve cover breathers. poped it back on and the motor is much happier now. no more instant P0107. still getting the P1507 code, going to start with changing the NSS on the transmission over since i know the one on the 02 is good. Removed the oem shift knob pulled the Hurst gray one of the '02. ill have to see about getting a black or all white one at some point to better match. ive always liked pool ball style shifters better than anything else. The gray will have to do for now. Test fit the Custco bar, to make it fit on the 02 i had to space up the hood in the cowl area, not ideal as it can mess with the cooling on the car, since it is a high pressure area. i wanted to see if with the JDM hood it would clear the bottom since i hadnt put it on the 02 for a test fit yet. The JDM strut towers might be in a slightly different angle/position... as on the USDM chasis it runs into the hood as you can see the scratch here from setting the hood down lightly on it. ill run the solid strut bar that came with the car for now, but it needs to be painted a different color, maybe STI pink or all black. the white doesnt color matche the chassis and it bugs the hell out of me. also installed the factory battery tie down, and noticed its majorly corroded on the bottom side. maybe time for an aluminum upgrade maybe go all Kartboy when i get the short throw shifter, the endlinks and pitch stop. Edited December 7, 2021 by xrayspecs added picture of parts listed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted December 11, 2021 Author Share Posted December 11, 2021 (edited) More small work on the car after work when I get the time, lots going on this time of year that keeps pulling me away. I need to find an aftermarket rad cowl that isnt bent, the custco will do for now but the bend in it still bugs me.. using the white strut bar for now. blacking it out is on the to do list. As i wasnt sure if when I was going to be done taking the bumper on and off i had skipped installing the side supports and putting the fender and wheel liner clips on. Since i dont think the bumper will be coming off anytime soon i dug them out and put them on. also picture are the JDM wheel deflectors i had from the half cut, i was going to install them at the same time but it looks like the USDM strut and fender liners arent drilled for them. a project for another day. they went back into the spares pile. Fenders line up way better now! all the little finishing steps always take way more time than anticipated. Since I had dug them all out earlier, and am not planing to take the bumper off anytime soon, put the nice new bumper clips on. The car has been detailed great on the outside and for the floors/seats but is in need of a lot of unseen detail work. when the engine was out i spent a large chunk of time with the degreaser and scrubbers cleaning up on the firewall, subframe, and fenders. anywhere i could reach without removing more parts got a scrub. continuing in that the rear trunk rain gutters were filled with tree junk and dirt/sap mix of some sort, but a bit of cleaner and elbow grease and it mostly cleaned up. I need to get a few more detail burshes to be able to reach all the spots here and under the hood. Soon ill have to check all the moon roof drains to make sure they arent clogged with the same gunk. Before, also added a save the stick sticker I had. After, also got the bottom lip of the trunk that was covered in the same stuff. More personal touches to the car, Added the Hella Supertones and put the front plate on. As the Hood latch has to come off to get the passanger side horn bolt off the car, I took the chance to better align the hood and bumper overlap and it's a much better fit now. Edited December 11, 2021 by xrayspecs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted December 15, 2021 Author Share Posted December 15, 2021 (edited) Slow work as its been cold and rainy when I've had free time. I did manage to get a little break this weekend and disabled the DRL's and divorced the fog lights from the light stock so that they can be turned on with acc power and stay on with the high beams. The light control module on the GT/Outbacks is the vertical module next bolted to the steering column next to the 12V seatbelt timer module. The DRL module has two plugs a black one and a white one, the white connector on top needs to be removed and the DRL's will be disabled. Tuck the white connector back up into the harness and its all done. Much easier than it was on the '02 L. Also confirmed with the rain thats been happening that the moonroof drains are infact plugged, when driving around the block it dribbles all around the headliner trim. Once the rain clears I will have to clean out the rain gutters and drains. This is the plug here that needs to be removed. Time to divorce the fog light switch from the headlight stock so that fogs stay on with high beams. Switch panel off. I am not sure what the wires on the right are for, as they all plug into a deadface on the front. If anyone knows what the 3rd switch on the right on the sedans is for I'd love to know, especially since whatever it is the whole harness looks to already be installed. Depined, black ground and yellow/black connections, jumpered and soldered toghether. Heatshrinked up for reinstall. Fully indepenent fog lights now. I'm not vibing with the tall Drag lug nuts on the ARP studs, dont like this look, replacement short lug nuts are on the to buy list for sure now. Much better daylight view of the hood/bumper overlap and the fender/bumper aligning perfect now! I need to pick the locks for the roof rack so that I can see how it looks without it, I didnt get the keys for the roof rack when I bought the car. Picture of the JDM cut off on the bulbs. You can see they are backwards to the USDM cut offs. I might eventually do the reflector black out that just makes the cut off flat. Its a lot of work as you have to bake and reseal the headlamps. Not sure how the misses feels about me baking car parts in the kitchen stove. 3/4 rear view, checking all the lights, the 3rd window and the wing light both work with the brake pedal. The door puddle lights on both sides work, the 02 L didnt have those, its a nice upgrade. Car rear view. i need to get my DSLR out and grab some good standing shots of it. Edited December 15, 2021 by xrayspecs words Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinEdgar Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 I want this gen lgt sooo bad, but they're so hard to find! Good work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted December 21, 2021 Author Share Posted December 21, 2021 (edited) I want this gen lgt sooo bad, but they're so hard to find! Good work. Thanks ive always really loved the jdm twin turbo version of these cars and have slowly been building the one I always wanted, hopefully theres a single turbo in the future for this one. They really are hard to find, unless you want to convert an outback, finding a GT Trim in the BH is hard and I cant recall the last time I saw another BE on the road, and I now have two of them. Whats funny is I found out when the transmission in the 02/L blew up that finding a still running/scrap yard manual L was just as hard to find since they came with 3.90 FD. The GT/Outback have 4.11 FD so the 5mt out of them wont work. I dont know what im going to do with the 02/L chassis thats now sitting in my garage, it would be really cool to find a really clean H6 and do a manual swap since I have all the parts that it would take in the spare car. then maybe do a blitzen front end and have a sedan and a wagon in the drive. Edited December 21, 2021 by xrayspecs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted December 27, 2021 Author Share Posted December 27, 2021 (edited) Havent been working on the as much with rain and the holidays havent had much time so tackled some of the little things. i havent been able to work on the 02 getting it back together to flip in around as i have a birdbath that froms in the garage when it rains super heavy. With all the rain took the time to check the moonroof gutters, they looked pretty clear, and the drains were all unplugged, did a water check and they all dribbled out the respective spots at the bottom of the car which is good. While looking at the moon roof realized that the installed wind deflector had some huge piles of muck undeath and the window seal all the way around had a lot of dirt in it, figured that was contributing to a leaky seal as water was probably coming through that way. wind deflector that is currently installed on the moonroof. You can see hear that the dirt goes right up to the window seal, this is part of the water ingress. All cleaned up, I put the wind defector back on for now, it may come off with the rack here in the future. Decided it was also time to swap the power steering pump as i dont enjoy hearing it whine. While removing the power steering pump from the car the threads on one of the bolts for the bracket came out with the bolt. I knew that the install of the engine had gone to smooth. location of the spicy suck spring, on the block. location not the greatest but its accessable. Removed power steering pump fromt he car, so that the unit can be replaced with the pump from the blown up motor. All ready to go waiting on thread repair. Spoke with one of my friends on the repair, I was going to use a Helicoil for the threads, he suggested that I look into a Time-Sert. After some reseatch it looked like a better solution. It just took a while to ship out. Had to remove the rad, the a/c condensor, and main pully to get to the threads, once that was all out it was a really quick process to bore, ream, thread, and install the insert. checking and realizing the pully would need to come off. Thread repair inserts are steel. Uses a special driver to install. Power steering pump installed and all back together. I also removed the air inject solenoid and bracket as the 01 ECU doesnt have any pin outs to control it on the engine plug on the B21/E2 connector and its useless. If the ecu keeps throwing codes and idling high (1000-1500) ill have to change the throttle body and the E2 Harness as the 01 MT E2 Harness is very different than the 02 MT harness thats on the engine. (sensors are all different). The car also has a engine cut at 6K rpm only in first. its odd. While under the hood checkd all the plug wires to make sure they are all good, looks like the number 2 cylinder plug had some water intrusion. the plug wire was really corroded. so replaced the plug wires with those off the blown up engine and cleaned up the post with some sand paper till it was shiny again. Also as now Ive been driving the car I missed the timing on the steering ujoint by a spline or two based on where the car goes straing. I tried to adjust the timing, however with the car as low as it is now, cant get to the bottom pinch bolt on the ujoint as the CV is in the same space that a wrench needs to go to loosen it up. will have to reaign the wheel to the rack, here this week when i get the front end up to swap the NSS. The steering wheel is off just a smidge. Edited January 17, 2022 by xrayspecs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted December 28, 2021 Author Share Posted December 28, 2021 (edited) Finished burping the cooling system tonight and took the car for a spin in the torrential down pour to make sure that it would stay cool and to check for moon roof leaks, good on both accounts as there was no dripping on the headliner for the 1/2 hour drive. looks like the previous leak was from a dirty moon roof seal and possibly the dirt sitting on the seal thats good news its fixed. downside is i noticed a at certain idle speed though that the cat hanger rubber is compelety worn out as the exhaust has a ring at certain rpm, i thought the cat hanger felt loose when i was under the transmission doing the shifter bushings. another thing to add to parts to grab from the 02. Edited January 17, 2022 by xrayspecs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted January 3, 2022 Author Share Posted January 3, 2022 (edited) I took it on some small drives around to make sure everything is up to shape. sounds like i have a brake dust shieldin the front drivers side that got bent moving subframes around that is riding on a rotor. ill have to fix that when i get under the front agian. I also noticed that it sounded like the rear wheel bearings were starting to howl. Not unusuall for a 20 year old/180k mile bearings to be worn out. All the m ore motivation to finish swaping parts. This lasted about a week before taking it all apart agian. put the whole front back together on the '02 so that I could put it on the front wheels. once it was together It was a lot easier to sping the car on with the jack stands with no engine in the car. All ready to have the rear subframe removed with all the speed parts. Rear subframe from the '02 with all the polymer and shocks out of the 02. Pulled the '01 into the garage, I started to removed the trunk trim/appolstry bits and noticed there was water on the tire protector/board. Thats not great news. the spare tire well had some small puddle disculorations like it had gotten water in the past.... great. Continued pulling with removing the rear floor mat, and the cover trim pieces on the trunk, felt the water on the insulation on the driver side of the trunk, followed it over and noticed. this puddle in the fender well..... I wonder how many times that has flilled up over the years. The piece for the car jack has swelled up and is moldy, so this has happend a few times it looks like. At first glance it was obvious the moonroof drain tube is not connected to the drain connection in the fender well. After some swear words and fishing around in the car found the drain tube. thats a relief that I wont have to drop the head liner and fish a new one through the C-pillar. Put the drain line back in the fender vent, and sucked all the water out with a vaccum and dried out the fender well with some shop rags, doesnt look like theres any surface rust or anything anywhere. So glad I caught it now. Hopefully it stays put now. Passenger side was all in place as it should be. Whole rear subframe off the '01. After getting the subframe down all the bushings in the '01 were in the same state as all the old ones on the '02 were. I'd recon to say any 3rd gen legacy with over 100k miles needs all the rear link bushings replaced. Time has just gotten to them all. Nice view of the magnaflow axle back that came on the '01. Im not a big fan of the straight tip, might have that replaced with a pie cut 90° downturn in the future. The two main parts needed from the '01 rear subframe is the whiteline rear sway bar, as its much heavier and the 4.11:1 rear diff to match the transmission. Another upgrade is the 4.11 from the limited has a VLSD in it. Removed the diff and cleaned it up a bit. I think it has been over filled a few times, as the whole thing was coated in gear oil from the breather down. . Subframe getting ready to go into the '01. Whiteline rear swaybar on the car. Set the links to the stiffer setting of the start, why not since everything else is set to stiff right? Edited January 3, 2022 by xrayspecs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted January 3, 2022 Author Share Posted January 3, 2022 4.11 rear diff installed and all ready to go into the car. you can also see the exhaust on the bumper here that is the reason i prefer downturns. So much goodness installed in '01 now. with the whiteline swaybars that were on the car I now have the full whiteline catalog for bushings on this car. In the process of working on the car, facebook reminded me that 5 years ago as well i was working on the '02. Took some time and cleaned all the brake dust off the wheels. once i get the car aligned and the fenders all rolled. These will be going up for sale. i dont need 2 sets of rims and tires. Installed the rear Cusco strut bar. decieded not to trim the rear trim panels for the bar, i dont ever put anything in the trunk and this aint a show car so its not a big deal. nice that this one has the oem option turn net. Also dug out all the fasterners and parts for the JDM factory option rear spats. I bought these on here off another member a few years back and never paint matched them green or installed them on the '02 theyve been in the parts pile for some time. I also have the matching fronts but havent installed them yet. Nice that theyre white and have never been installed before. I think these are the BH option ones as the fit is a little different on the bottom back inside once they were installed. but honestly its not to bad. all the instructions are a nifty little bulletin to have for the car build folder. Nothing like some rare option oem pieces. now if only I could find the font lip option spoiler kit in white. It lives, runs and drives like a whole new car. need to take it for an alignment this week so that I can take it on longer drives than around the block. left on the to-do for the parts, the car is still thowing the same two engine codes, from the MIL. so Ill have to change the throttle body so the 01 ecu can idle the car correctly and run right. also need to swap the NSS for the front. Also need to swap the head unit from my 02 to the 01 or buy a new one so I can have car play. Last is move over the Wink mirror to the 01. then itll be driving it till I finish some other projects. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted January 4, 2022 Author Share Posted January 4, 2022 Been super busy on this as the more work I do on it and the more finished it gets for this stage of work, the more and more fun it is to drive and the better the car sounds, feels and handles. Raised up the front tonight and checked on the squeek. Reclocked the timing for the steering wheel to the rack and pinion input shaft so that when I take it to align later this week they dont use the tie rods to straight the wheel out and have the rack wayyyy off center. Also replaced the NSS with the known good switch off the '02. Installed the front jdm spats as well and did the first full tank fill up on the car. Source of the scatching sound that I noticed after putting the rear end in. I couldnt hear it before over the ps noise, the rear wheel bearing whine and the heat sheild rattle. Lucky the scratch is just on the surface and the dust shield took most of the wear. bent the dust shield back to where it should be and the sound was gone when turning the front wheels by hand. the other rattle i had was the muffler in the rear being off one of the hangers and twisting the midpipe into the heat shields. I think when backing out of my driveway it knocked the hanger loose as the tip contacts the street if i dont come at an angle. Installing the front spats was not as smooth as the rears. While the rear bumper for already had holes in the bumper in the correct locations for all the supplied j-fasteners and clips in the JDM kit. The front did not have the back too holes for holding the nutserts shown on the diagram on the sheet shown here. I installed the front J clip, added some additional 3m tape on the inside bottom where the fastners go. once it was all installed I drilled the side sill tirm with a 1/8th bit and used the supplied screws to just screw right to the sill tirm to hold the spat on the inside. One thing i dont usually see since everyone gets these second hand is they reuse the clip on the front fender well to hold the spat down. the JDM ones use a j clip and a metric fastener with washer to hold the spat/sill/fender all togeher. this gets nice and snug and keeps there from being any big gaps. Missing square holes for plastic nutserts on the USDM side sills. under this tab is where I added additional trim tape. Picture of post install of the sill and fasnteners And because gas station lighting just hits hard and I just looks so damn good now I had to take pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacobpockros Posted January 6, 2022 Share Posted January 6, 2022 If the car still has a squeak going over bumps I would grease those front sway bar bushings and see if the noise temporarily goes away. If it does I would replace those front sway bar bushings since they’re poly and 7-8 years old now. You should probably reseal the rear diff since that’s where your leak is coming from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted January 7, 2022 Author Share Posted January 7, 2022 (edited) I have a couple of tubes of the whiteline bushing grease that i used when I put everything back together. I cleaned everything up and regreased the bushings on the front and the sway bar in the back since they have mileage on them. Polymer bushings take way more maintenance and regular pm than rubber bushings. But I knew that going into the upgrades. No squeaks and just nice and stiff suspension. Edited January 7, 2022 by xrayspecs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted January 8, 2022 Author Share Posted January 8, 2022 (edited) So spent a fair amount of time calling and driving around to all the alignment shops in what I consider a reasonable distance from my house to get an alignement apointment. I got a combination of our lift isnt low enough, to we dont touch after market suspension parts or we dont touch lowered cars. found one shop that had an infloor but there booked out for a while. So resorted to a method i havent used since high school. strings on a stick with jack stands, a steel ruler, a straight edge, ratchet straps and a digital angle gauge. Set the camber to 1.5° in the front and 1.6° in the rear, initially had around 1/2" of toe out on both the front and the rear with a thrust angle towards the passangers side. got the toe set to an 1/8" toe in total so 1/16" per wheel and my patience wore out before i could get it any tighter. i also tried to center the steering wheel and overshot the take up on the tie rods. But again my patience wore out before i could get it centered 100%. Also found the source of the recurring passanger foot well rattle, muffler hanger keeps working its way off the hanger shown here. the aftermarket hanger doesnt have a mushroom on it to keep it secured. ill have to get that fixed, as its a minor nucance to have to put back on. Well I got the car aligned and driving, its not twitchy, its nice and balanced and has amazing turn in and stays flat as can be. spring rates i picked are a tad bit agressive on the freeway, the car feels like a roller coaster on the bucks and heves of the highway. but its crazy how responsive this chassis is when its spruced up. I had to go into my office and one of the great canyon runs is 20 min away so instead of sitting in traffic I decided why not go over and run it. Saw a handfull of supercars, a ton of civis and a few MR-2's on the way up. was late enough in the day i didnt have anyone to chase down the hill and just enjoyed the drive. was the perfect timing to stop for some pictures too as all the pull outs were empty. in the words me and my friend say..... Canyons Canyons Canyons. Edited January 8, 2022 by xrayspecs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted January 17, 2022 Author Share Posted January 17, 2022 (edited) Two more checklist items that are small nucesnces to me got the parts in to address. Throttle body gasket and pump orings. The power steering pump still has a whine when cold and on turn in loads. The reservoir is also foaming quite a bit. As all the soft lines were changed to new on the systems, and the pump I installed measured in spec for shaft play. It was relativley quick to get the pump suction snout off and the orings off. They were so crispy they just broke the moment I put an oring removal tool on them. If you have a cold start power steering pump whine I would start with these orings, they were $4.31 from the dealer p/n 34439AE00A. New orings went right on and in, no more power steering pump whine now. glad that it is fixed and didnt need to get another pump to swap. Next onto the throttle body swap. The ECU doenst like the throttle body and idle air control valve from the 02. and contines to throw idle error codes. Looking at the harnesses and the digrams I was hoping that he two engine connector plugs wouldnt be loomed togehter, but they are. Wiring loom from the 01 engine in the garage off. Some of the differences between 02 to 01 on the air cleaner box, the PCV system routing pieces. The 01 has a sensor on the box, and an additional molded spot for the PCV lines. PCV y splitter for the extra PCV line on the air box The 02 doenst have them. Both wiring looms out. Kept the 02 throttle body on till everything was ready to go, so the coolant lines dont drip everywhere in the engine bay. Close up you see the difference in the throttle bodys. The 02 throttle body the ECU didnt like. The 01 throttle body so the EUC will be happy and the car will stop running rich/rough/idleing high. The only connector that ill have to swap is the power steering pump pressure switch plug, the 01 has a 2 pin connector the plug connector from the 02 has a single pin connector. No codes are being thrown so not to worried about this connector for now. Took the better part of a day to swap the engine harness but now the car idles as it should at 750ish, doesnt studder or die when cold started. It also doesnt smell like its running super rich. This should improve the MPG ive been seeing too. Left on the check list for things to do are all minor items now. roll fenders so the 235's will fit with out rubbing Swap the head unit from the 02 over so i have an actual AUX input might upgrade to a airplay unit in the future. make new wink mirror brackets and install the 5 panel wink mirror. put together a forsale thread for all the spares I dont plan to keep. Edited January 17, 2022 by xrayspecs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted January 24, 2022 Author Share Posted January 24, 2022 More of just driving this old car. Currently waiting a date to get the fenders rolled. Continually impressed with how well it handles. Drove the 243 and 74. Cars driving flawlessly now with the correct throttle body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted January 30, 2022 Author Share Posted January 30, 2022 More small updates, took the car to get smoged for reg, after pulling the car in the smog guy had 100 questions on the car cause of how stiff it is. Car passed smog no problem. After some looking around online, and seeing most of the decent sub 1k carplay head units were currently sold out or backordered. Decided to pull the older Pioneer head unit out of the 02 and put it in the 01. It was neat to have the OEM unit, but I need to have an Aux input for long commutes. OEM double Din unit. Pioneer unit pulled out of the 02. Removing the shifter bezel and trim, found some missing clips. To the 02 in the garage to pull off the missing clips. Shifter rubber seal properly held down again. Bezzle trim clips added back. New old head unit installed and ready to go. The speakers sound way better with this unit that the oem unit, at somepoint ill upgrade to carplay, and get sone nice aftermarket speakers and sub/amp. . Have an appointment coming up with someone to roll the fenders all around so thatll be the next big work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacobpockros Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 The cat that’s on there is tough as nails like I mentioned. Has made it past the ref several times even with UEL’s and the cams that were in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted January 31, 2022 Author Share Posted January 31, 2022 (edited) Not sure if you mean an actual BAR ref or a smog here, they are different. you have to smog annually in CA, a BAR ref is only if you get a fix it ticket from an Peace officer, or get flagged at a SMOG station. I've never had an issue with headers. I have a OBD scanner I use to make sure that the ECU checks are all green/okay. All OBDII cars only get a visusal check (which can varry depending on how bored the guy is) and a computer scan for the OBD monitors. Its not that difficlut to pass as long as you check before you go in. Edited January 31, 2022 by xrayspecs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted February 4, 2022 Author Share Posted February 4, 2022 Well gotten about 700 miles in the car now as set up, I really like the spring rates, and konis together and all the polymer isnt so noisey it bugs me. I did get the roof rack off. The previous owner didnt have the keys for the roof rack so had to pick the locks to get them off. Nothing like a small dyi pickset for the locks. The soft feet on the roof rack have started to get gummy and sticky. If i put the rack back on they will have to be replaced as they are coming apart. they left a ton of residue on the paint. Havent gotten it all off but theres probably some damage to the paint from the bases. The moonroof deflector also has left some paint damage where the seal is up against the paint. Car looks much more put together with no rack or deflector. Car needs a deep clean and a wax now for the paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted February 9, 2022 Author Share Posted February 9, 2022 (edited) As the original first posting is now out of date since now that I have a whole new car the 2001 Legacy GT-Limited. Its time to put together a new build parts list as not everything was moved over or reused between cars and milage Purchased the 01 GT Limited sedan in October of 2021, its in great shape outside and in. Car had a non running engine, that I later found out had dropped 2 valves on cyl 4 and broke the rocker arm on cly 3. Cly 1 and 2 the cam was galled up. Took almost everything off my 02 from the previous posts and installed the parts onto the 01. 2001 Legacy GT-L Build sheet as of 04/05/2022. I keep a detailed logbook and binder on the work/upgrades I've done on cars I own, makes it easier to keep the hagglers at bay when you go to sell. So i've compiled everything I have installed and added into a list here and the milage it was installed at, milage all updated to reflect the 01 odometer readings. Previous car milage added as a note if the parts had use on them already. Chassis/Suspension: Subframes/front and rear from 2002 moved to 2001 as complete units. Timken Rear unit wheel bearings (p/n 512183 ) previous milage 28k installed at 183k miles. Moog Tie Rod outer ends (p/n ES3715 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles. Beck/Arnley Ball joints (p/n 101-4105 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles. Beck/Arnley Tie Rods inner/rack bellows (p/n 101-7404 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles. Whiteline 55mm Inner LCA Bushings (p/n W51709 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles. Whiteline LCA Rear bushings (p/n W53515 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles. Whiteline Steering rack bushings (p/n KSR202 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles. Cusco Racing rear strut tower brace (p/n 658 541 A ) pervious milage 21k installed at 183k miles. Timken front wheel bearings both sides (p/n 517008 ) pervious milage 8k installed at 183k miles. Timken front wheel bearing retainer C clips both sides (p/n RET176 ) pervious milage 8k installed at 183k miles. SKF front inner and outer wheel seals both sides (p/n 22026 & 22032 ) pervious milage 8k installed at 183k miles. Beck/Arnley replacement spindle nuts for the front (p/n 103-0504 ) pervious milage 8k installed at 183k miles. Subaru OEM steering rack from a +15MY STI (p/n 34110VA120 was supper-seeded by 34110VA121 ) at 183k Subaru OEM steering U-Joint replacement from a +15MY STI (p/n 34170VA30 ) at 183k Subaru OEM power steering pump from 2001 engine (p/n ) Gates Hoses high pressure power steering hose assembly (p/n 365599 ) at 183k Gates Hoses low pressure power steering hose assembly (p/n 352638 ) at 183k Sunsong Soses reservoir suction hose (p/n 3403725 ) at 183k Cardone power steering reservoir (p/n 3R363 ) at 183k Motul Dextron III fluid for Power Steering (p/n 105776 ) at 183k Derale 4 pass power steering cooler to increase fluid volume and cooling (p/n 259-13212 ) at 183k Derale high temperature hose 11/32” x 25” to get cooler in front of radiator (p/n 259-13007 ) at 183k Subaru power steering pump suction o-rings (p/n 34439AE00A ) at 183K Whiteline adjustable rear lower tubular control arms with polymer bushings (p/n KTA124 ) at 183k Whiteline control arm lock bolt kit (p/n KCA307 ) at 183k Whiteline upper control arm outer bushing (p/n W63397 ) at 183k Whiteline upper control arm inner bushing (p/n W63396 ) at 183k Whiteline control arm lower rear outer bushing (p/n W63394 ) at 183k Whiteline control arm lower front bushing (p/n W63398 ) at 183k Whiteline diff cradle bushing front (p/n KDT906 ) at 183k Powerflex rear sub-frame bushing set (p/n PFR69-417 ) at 183k Whiteline diff rear bushing (p/n KDT905 ) at 183k ARP 3" wheel stud kit from WRX 5x100 (p/n 100-7716 ) at 183K Koni Yellows assembly part numbers below all installed at 183K: Front Struts. Koni Yellow p/n 8610-1447SPORT OEM LGT Shock bodies from a BL, spring perch removed and trimmed for Struts. Monroe OEM equivalent Strut Mount p/n 902924 Koni coil spring perch for 2.25" coil spring mounting hole opened up to 15mm on lathe, p/n 80-0000-0007 Koni Nylon 2.25in to 2.5in adapters p/n 15 29 04 003 0 Hyperco 2.5" helper spring p/n 557-CS100 Eibach spacer/coupling for 2.5" spring p/n SPACER250 Eibach 2.5", 12" long, 450#/in Coil-Over Main Spring Standard Universal 1200.2500450 Allstar Performance 7" aluminum KONI shock threaded body sleeve kit, had to take out a tenth on the internal "humps" on the lathe to get the body to fit tight on the OEM housings. p/n ALL64147 Rear Shocks Koni Yellow p/n 8010-1053SPORT Koni coil spring perch for 2.25" coil spring p/n 80-0000-0007 Koni Sleeve, lower spring perch and 25mm upper spring Perch p/n 80 0000 1 Koni Motorsports N/A Nylon 2.25in to 2.5in adapters p/n 15 29 04 003 0 Eibach 2.5", 8" long, 400#/in Coil-Over Main Spring Standard Universal p/n 0800.2500400 Whiteline 20mm sway bar X-Heavy (p/n WLBSR12XZ ) at unk came with car. Whiteline 20mm sway bar heavy duty (p/n WLBSF14 ) at unk came with car. Kartboy solid sway bar end links front and rear(p/n KB-017-Front KB-017-STi-R) at 185K. Vorshlag 17mm hex lugnuts (p/n 12mm Hex M12-1.25) at 185k. Engine: Rebuilt heads and short block pervious milage 52k installed at 183k miles. Standard spark plug wires (p/n 27577 ) pervious milage 40k installed at 183k miles. PCV Vacuum lines all easily accessible lines, replaced with plain vacuum lines from LPS pervious milage 40k installed at 183k miles. Felpro Valve cover gaskets (p/n VS50561R ) pervious milage 40k installed at 183k miles. OEM Ignition coil (p/n 22433AA41A, UF240 ) pervious milage 35k installed at 183k miles. Borla (p/n 17183 ) SS UEL header (p/n MS95088 ) pervious milage 24k installed at 183k miles. Mishimotor Oil Drian Plug (p/n MMODP-2015B ) pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles. Cusco Radiator Shroud/Dress-up piece (p/n 684 003 AL ) pervious milage 21k installed at 183k miles. Fuel Filter and pressure lines replaced (p/n 33558 ) at 183k Gates radiator hoses, top hose, bottom hose, and bypass hose (p/n 22495 , 22494 , 19535 ) pervious milage 17k installed at 183k miles. Stant OEM thermostat (p/n 48457 ) pervious milage 17k installed at 183k miles. Stant radiator cap oem pressure (p/n 10233 ) pervious milage 17k installed at 183k miles. NGK Spark plugs (p/n BKR6Eix11 ) pervious milage 9k installed at 183k miles. Standard parts Knock sensor replaced (p/n KS98T ) pervious milage 9k installed at 183k miles. Timsert M8X1.25 Thread repair for power steering pump threads on block (p/n 1812 ) at 183k miles. Subaru OEM intake filter (p/n 16546AA07A) at 183k miles. Mahle throttle body gasket (p/n G31760 ) at 183k miles. Felpro manifold gaskets and replacement 2 hole gaskets (p/n MS95088) at 183k miles. Prestone premix 50/50 fluid for replacement at 183k miles. Subaru OEM V belt AC 18x6x887 (p/n 809218260 ) at unk came with car. Subaru OEM AC Belt (p/n 73323AC000) at unk came with car. Subaru OEM timing belt large cover (p/n 13570AA12B) at unk came with car. Subaru OEM timing belt left side back cover (p/n 13575AA12A ) at unk came with car. Subaru OEM timing crankshaft sprocket (p/n 13021AA17A ) at unk came with car. Magnaflow muffler with 2.25” catback (p/n 14829 ) at unk came with car. Kartboy battery tiedown (p/n KB-100-BT) at 185k Drivetrain: Centric Clutch hose replacement (p/n 1513.47004 ) pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles. Exedy OEM clutch Kit (p/n DKN KSB04 ), pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, and clutch disk pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles Kartboy (p/n KB-003-Rear ), (p/n KB-003 ), 5MT Shifter bushings pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles Kartboy (p/n KB-025 ) Transmission mount bushings pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles Standard Motor Parts new starter (P/N 17170 ) pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles Anchor Industries, rear transmission mount solid, filled in with 2 part urethane (p/n 9563 ) at 183k Subaru Remanufactured OEM Axles (p/n 42072PA010) at unk came with car. Brakes: Subaru OEM rear brake disk (p/n HML020916 ) at unk came with car. Subaru OEM rear brake pad (p/n 26700AE04C ) at unk came with car. Subaru OEM front brake pad kit (p/n 26296AE220 ) at unk came with car. Subaru OEM front disc rotor (p/n 26300AE00C ) at unk came with car. Interior: Pioneer double din deck, custom pigtail made from oem/spare parts laying around (p/n AVH-P14000DVD ) at 183k Grey Toyota Truck 5spd Hurst style ball knob (p/n PTR34-52080 ) pervious milage 21k installed at 183k miles Mob Armor Mob Mount Switch Magnetic Large in Desert Tan pervious milage 21k installed at 183k miles Exterior: DRL’s disabled from use at 183k Replaced OEM horns with HELLA (p/n 003399801 ) Super tones pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles JDM Rev D, B4-RSK front clip, for fenders, bumper beam, bumper skin, aluminum hood, and headlights. fully replaced headlight harness to the JDM harness for pigtails at 183k Subaru OEM REV D aero rain guards with OEM mounting hardware not 100% on the part number as the installation instructions list the following, and I can’t read the instructions (p/n J1017AE151## J1017AE152## J1017AE153## J1017AE154## J1017AE174## J1017AE155## J1017AE175## J1017AE156## J1017AE176## ) 183K Subaru OEM Under splash cover (p/n SOA966H1100R1 ) at unk came with car. Replacement Windshield (p/n 56410AW06A ) at unk came with car. Replacement windshield molding (p/n FW02154GTNN ) at unk came with car. All four coners fenders shaved and rolled at 185k. Sylvania high beam bulbs (p/n H1ST.BP2 H1 ) at 185k. Philips low beam bulb HID/Xeon bulbs (p/n D2R ) at 185k. HELLA fog light bulb (p/n H3 YL ) at 185k. License plate frame Matte black parts store special(p/n UNK) at 185k. Wheels/Tires: Enkei RPF1 17x8 +45 5x100pcd VENTUS V12 EVO2 - SIZE: 235/45ZR17 at 185k. Fast WRX Mach 5 wheel spacer 5mm thick in the rear (p/n Mach V) at 185k Halex 2 in knock-out seal for center cap (p/n 60720 ) at 185K Edited May 3, 2022 by xrayspecs updated for new parts as of 3/31/22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted March 2, 2022 Author Share Posted March 2, 2022 No major updates on the car lately, been short staffed at work so I havent been able to take an afternoon to keep a appointment to have the fenders rolled... but more commuting i do the more i like how ive set the car up. needs some better brakes.. Im still loving how the car sits and looks for the most part! Also picked up some bug/tar remover for the gummy silicon stuck to the roof from the melted roof rack pads. This stuff worked great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 Car looks great. Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayspecs Posted March 4, 2022 Author Share Posted March 4, 2022 Car looks great. Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Thanks! I really like how it looks with the JDM parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zac88 Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 For the brakes, could you do the Caddilac Brembo swap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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