ohitsanderson Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 My friend and I will be installing a VF52 on his 05' Leggy GT 5eat today, it is all stock and we are doing the swap due to his VF40 tanking. Will it be okay to run the car for a few days until he orders his downpipe and tune? I figured with both being stock turbos and the car having no aftermarket parts it should be running around 13psi on both turbos so it won't be over or underfueling the car. Any input? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amm203 Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 I would not risk it. Wait until the DP is delivered, install it and get a proper tune all at once before doing anything else. Ideally you would get an e-tune from Tuning Alliance, flash it when you install everything and start data logging for revisions right away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holla Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 Personally, I wouldn't drive it without a proper tune. If you must, keep the rpm's as low as possible, don't even try getting into boost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 Does your buddy want to sell his VF40? I'm looking for a functioning wastegate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 My friend and I will be installing a VF52 on his 05' Leggy GT 5eat today, it is all stock and we are doing the swap due to his VF40 tanking. Will it be okay to run the car for a few days until he orders his downpipe and tune? I figured with both being stock turbos and the car having no aftermarket parts it should be running around 13psi on both turbos so it won't be over or underfueling the car. Any input? Even though they're both running stock boost, the 52 flows 20+HP more air up top, which really should be accounted for with a proper tune. Peak torque is also at a different spot in the powerband, by a few hundred RPM. Further, you've got to remove the DP to install the turbo, so you'll be doing double work there unless you wait and do everything at once. That said, if you don't push the car into boost, it will be perfectly fine to putter around on the 52 until he gets a DP and tune. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 Do you have a catless up pipe ? I bolt the turbo on the up pipe. jpg.gif DSCN4783.JPG 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 Do you have a catless up pipe ? I bolt the turbo on the up pipe. jpg.gif DSCN4783.JPG Drink. Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phate Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 Do you have a catless up pipe ? I bolt the turbo on the up pipe. jpg.gif DSCN4783.JPG Drink. I've been wondering how I should attach my VF52 when I install it in a couple months... All jokes aside, bolting it on does make your life a ton easier. OP, I wouldn't risk it. I was helping a guy local to me sort something out on his LGT, and he had replaced his blown VF40 with a VF52 and ran the wrong tune on it. Car killed the VF52 within a month, and needed a shortblock soon after that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 What happened with the VF-40 when it “tanked”... ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 OP, you'll have to cut the opening in the stock heat shield wider for the vf52 Did we tell you to remove the filter from the banjo bolt on the back of the head ? also replace the oil return hose. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohitsanderson Posted November 10, 2017 Author Share Posted November 10, 2017 What happened with the VF-40 when it “tanked”... ? Clogged up banjo bolt, the VF40 wasn't getting proper oil flow and it broke the shaft in half. I have had 1 do that to me before also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohitsanderson Posted November 10, 2017 Author Share Posted November 10, 2017 OP, you'll have to cut the opening in the stock heat shield wider for the vf52 Did we tell you to remove the filter from the banjo bolt on the back of the head ? also replace the oil return hose. We did away with the heat shield, We have already taken the screen out of the bajo bolt, and the oil return line was badly dry rotted so we had no choice lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 We did away with the heat shield... Having the heat shield helps you, it is there for a reason. Your turbo is glowing cherry red when you are driving down the freeway. The heat shield keeps your underhood temperatures down, reduce heat soak, and prevents heat damage to other components. You can trim the one you have, buy a new one, make one, whatever you do is better than nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 We did away with the heat shield, We have already taken the screen out of the bajo bolt, and the oil return line was badly dry rotted so we had no choice lol Are you positive there is no metal from the old turbo in the oil system ? Can't stress how important that is. We don't want you to be back here in a couple weeks posting about why did the new turbo blow up. Trust me it happens a few time a month. We need to know you did all the right things before you just bolt on a new turbo. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn06SpecB Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 bolting the turbo sure does make life easier, I have extra (brand new) bolts if anyone needs them since I had to buy a whole bag of 25 from mcmaster. I have a FS thread for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 Having the heat shield helps you, it is there for a reason. Your turbo is glowing cherry red when you are driving down the freeway. The heat shield keeps your underhood temperatures down, reduce heat soak, and prevents heat damage to other components. You can trim the one you have, buy a new one, make one, whatever you do is better than nothing. To be fair I don't have a heat shield on my Vf52 as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 To be fair I don't have a heat shield on my Vf52 as well.The sky will not fall or anything, but having one is better than not. Knowing the quality of the Subaru rubber/plastic parts and electrical wiring, do you really want to subject them to intense heat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 I removed my lower when I installed my Invidia catted downpipe, but I replaced it with the three layer system (turbo blanket, oem heat shield, SPT heat shield). I've measured temps in the engine bay and they are cooler, but I haven't measured down around the axle and such so I don't have a direct comparison. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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