kaluce Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 I finally got around to doing the Outback XT to LGT suspension swap, and tried to get an alignment last week. The shop I went to said that the alignment wasn't going to happen due to the toe nuts and bolts being rusted out. Anyway, I took a look and tried to get the rear toe bolts off, since I found those early on. They are REALLY in there, and there doesn't seem to be a way to get them off. I can't cut them because the rear diff is close by, and I'm worried about torching them for the same reason. How does one normally get all these frozen bolts off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 You can use a small cutoff wheel in a drill. Not much space to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted November 6, 2017 Share Posted November 6, 2017 Feel free to torch them, I doubt the diff will heat soak enough for it to be a problem. That being said, I wouldn't torching them will make a difference. It's pretty common to have cut out toe bolts in these cars. I ended up having to use a dremel and about half a dozen cutoff wheels to get the damn thing off. It was a mess of a four hour ordeal. On the bright side, replacement bolts from the dealer are about $20! MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted November 6, 2017 Share Posted November 6, 2017 I would be less concerned about the diff. and more concerned about the fuel lines above the passenger side nut. the nut is on the other side of the sub-frame towards the front of the car away from the diff. just use common sense, heat rises, don't torch up towards the fuel lines. I'm also refering to a 3rd gen, so they could be in a different location for 05+. got one side off with heat and stripped the other side out and finished rounding it off with bolt extracters from erwin. gonna try some more heat and vice grips, then move on to nut spliters, and will then try and grind the nut off as a last resort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaluce Posted November 7, 2017 Author Share Posted November 7, 2017 got one side off with heat and stripped the other side out and finished rounding it off with bolt extracters from erwin. gonna try some more heat and vice grips, then move on to nut spliters, and will then try and grind the nut off as a last resort. I actually didn't round either side's nuts yet, but I've shattered a HF socket wrench trying to get it off, admittedly doing something extraordinarily stupid. Honestly, I'm thinking about taking it slow and grinding the nut off would probably be the best, if MTB is correct. it seems honestly like it would be the easiest. I also considered dropping the rear subframe out of the back of the car and slicing the bolt off from the top to avoid dicking around near the fuel tank. Considering I had the entire suspension apart for my OBXT to LGT surgery (and thus it wouldn't be that bad to get it all apart), but I didn't really like the idea of taking the driveshaft down again, and it seemed like a lot of work for something that should be easy. I also considered buying and using an air chisel, since I saw an S2000 suspension video where the guy tapped it and it just came apart like butter. I don't know if that'll work on our cars though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanchitosonria Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 Mine were rusted in the bushings themselves. Had to cut the arm off... http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256322&d=1507231895 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 I hate those toe bolts. Replaced mine about 10k miles ago, been about 1 year and they are stuck already. Makes me wanna just buy the adjustable toe arms, tough pill to swallow but worth it for sanity. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 I gotta do this to my car, does coating them in anti-seize help when replacing? Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanchitosonria Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 I coated mine in grease after buying new ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaluce Posted December 4, 2017 Author Share Posted December 4, 2017 Bought a new set of arms, bushings, nuts, washers, and bolts. I started rounding the bolts. I've gotten past the point of diplomacy unfortunately and I'm going to have to slice the fuckers off now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theflystyle Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 This thread is giving me nightmares about fixing this on my car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew1707 Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 Touché. Can I get the part #’s for the toe hardware? Saw them on another post weeks ago but I can’t find it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaluce Posted December 6, 2017 Author Share Posted December 6, 2017 Sure. This is for a 2005 LGT/OBXT wagon, It should be the same for all 05-09 MYs and the same for the sedan. I won't know if the arms include the bushings until tomorrow night, but they're pretty cheap at ~$3 per, so buy them anyway. why the **** not. Here is everything you might need. Honestly, the hardware is peanuts compared to the price of the arm itself ($45-ish from Subaru Genuine Parts) so you might as well get everything at once. I think for both sides WITH all the hardware it came out to around $110 shipped. This list is PER SIDE, which means order two of the below if you want everything. Rear Lower Control Arm: 20250AE01A LCA to subframe hardware: LCA Camber Bolt: 901700122 LCA Camber bushing: 20254AE01A LCA Camber marked guide washer: 903100171 LCA Camber washer: *(20560AA011 ; 20560AA010) LCA Camber nut: 902350006 LCA to Knuckle: LCA to Knuckle nut (huehuehue): 902350006 (This is the same as the LCA Camber nut above) LCA to Knuckle Bolt: 901000110 (*looks like there is 2PNs for this, I included both but one might supersede the other, IDK.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaluce Posted December 6, 2017 Author Share Posted December 6, 2017 This thread is giving me nightmares about fixing this on my car From what I can tell, if you've gotten an alignment at all during the life of the car, you hopefully will be fine because they should've used anti-seize on the bolts. But whoever owned the car before me never heard of anti-seize apparently. Really though, most of the hardware on my car has been rotten as I've removed it, it's unsurprising that this is the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theflystyle Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 I have had routine alignments at a local Subaru performance shop. No, they never used anti-seize Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theflystyle Posted November 28, 2019 Share Posted November 28, 2019 Necrobump. Has anyone tried using a bolt/nut splitter to remove one of the nuts and then hammer the bolt through? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaluce Posted November 29, 2019 Author Share Posted November 29, 2019 In my case, they were rusted all the way through and welded themselves to the arm. Slicing the bolt on either side and hammering the remaining bit out of the ears was all I could do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew1707 Posted February 6, 2020 Share Posted February 6, 2020 A bit late to the party...but I used a short sawzall blade after trying pretty much everything else. Now the drivers side spins even with a new alignment washer, Whiteline here I come$$$$$$ Sent from my SM-J327VPP using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theflystyle Posted February 6, 2020 Share Posted February 6, 2020 Yeah, I took mine to DPS and I am glad that I did. I told them the bolts were frozen, then they showed me the bushing spinning in the knuckle. Extremely grateful I didn't have to deal with that on my back, in the cold in my garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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