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"Full coverage" is a really ambiguous term that shouldn't be used.

 

Comprehensive and collision coverage are a good idea if you don't have thousands in the bank to cover the cost of repairs (or total loss value) to your vehicle if you run into something or someone, or if you get some hail damage. You'll only have to pay your deductible in that instance versus the entire cost of the repair or total loss. If you're a bad driver then you should probably buy this, although it will certainly be expensive. You could also just save money and not buy it, or spend the money on a class to teach you how to not run into shit.

Edited by Dishwasher
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Never read so many information about insurance, it was not that interesting for me. But now it became very useful as I have 2 cars at home and I pay a quite high price for the maintenance. You described the most important things which is really useful for us to know. My dad had trouble with an insurance company, they showed a very poor performance and just wanted to deceive him. It was better if he knew this info. Now I just want to find the cheapest cars to insure and pay less for those services. Edited by jimsock
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Also... back in 2015 when my neighbor burned down my garage out of sheer stupidity, my $8,000 2006 LGT was replaced with a check for $14,600 because the only comp the insurance company could find was in Seattle and was listed for $15,999 at the time.

 

They also gave me $3500 for my ‘78 Honda goldwing...

 

And $26,000 for my “garage.”

 

The legacy money was used for a new water well ($4000) surface prep for new garage ($6000) paid off credit card ($3000) and a collection of used computer parts to build myself a gaming PC ($440)

 

I then paid $600 for a 1996 legacy outback wagon...

 

The Honda money was used to pay off a loan and as a down payment on a Chrysler 200.

 

The garage money was used to buy a new garage.

 

As far as the legacy goes, sometimes having the power to send your agent comparable vehicles when determining market value for your loss can work to your advantage.

 

 

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I drive an 18-wheeler full time.... I don’t own it tho.

 

What kinda policy you sell me?

 

 

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You should consult with an agent, not an adjuster for that question. Plus, that's a specialty line of coverage, so talk to the right agent in your state.

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HUB is pretty big broker that can find you what you need.

 

I don't sell insurance, I adjust claims. Trucking insurance is indeed a specialty coverage like Jasejase says, and your situation has a lot of variables that can affect the types of coverages you need to purchase (or may already have). That being said I do specialize in commercial trucking insurance so I can kind of point you in the right direction.

 

At the end of the day you should make sure you have 3 types of coverage. An occupational accident policy, which is kind of like worker's compensation for truckers. A non-trucking (bobtail) liability policy, this is the policy that provides insurance coverage for you in the event you hit someone while you are driving your truck while not under dispatch. For example if you're taking the truck to go pick up some mcdonalds, or to go get serviced, you need insurance coverage for that.

 

And the last coverage and the most obvious is just a commercial trucking policy, which provides coverage while you're under dispatch. This is frequently provided to you by whoever you are shipping for, but you need to make sure of that before you go on the road. Sometimes the shipper is responsible, sometimes you're responsible. Without knowing more details about your situation I don't really know. I deal with complex coverage issues all the time, and every policy and contract is different.

 

Either way jasejase is absolutely right, you need a broker or an agent, not an adjuster. Hub is kind of the McDonalds of trucking brokers, so you can go to them and they'll find you the coverages you need.

 

https://www.hubinternational.com/industries/transportation-insurance/commercial-truck-insurance/

 

I do not work for HUB, but my company does sell policies through them.

Edited by Dishwasher
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Also... back in 2015 when my neighbor burned down my garage out of sheer stupidity, my $8,000 2006 LGT was replaced with a check for $14,600 because the only comp the insurance company could find was in Seattle and was listed for $15,999 at the time.

 

They also gave me $3500 for my ‘78 Honda goldwing...

 

And $26,000 for my “garage.”

 

The legacy money was used for a new water well ($4000) surface prep for new garage ($6000) paid off credit card ($3000) and a collection of used computer parts to build myself a gaming PC ($440)

 

I then paid $600 for a 1996 legacy outback wagon...

 

The Honda money was used to pay off a loan and as a down payment on a Chrysler 200.

 

The garage money was used to buy a new garage.

 

As far as the legacy goes, sometimes having the power to send your agent comparable vehicles when determining market value for your loss can work to your advantage.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Comps should absolutely be a part of any total loss settlement.

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Just sent in the annual premium payment today. Years ago my agent was a member here and took good care of me.

 

Before I renewed the current policy, I have $250 comprehensive deductibles. I called to see if I could raise them to lower the cost. I found that by going to $500 on the three vehicles, it would only be $11.00 cheaper total. To me it wasn't worth the risk if something happened.

 

Some times the lower cost is not worth the risk. Might be worth it to check out all the pricing.

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Has anyone with a highly modified car chosen to insure their car for its full cost including money "invested"? I'm currently paying about $75 a month but was considering insuring everything when I think about the amount of time I've put into her.

 

 

 

 

Not sure about full cost but I am certainly thinking about buying specialty coverage that includes market price of the vehicle with all the mods included. Something equivalent to a market replacement value of modified car, not just a stock 2005 Legacy GT Wagon with 1/4 million miles on the odometer.

 

 

I know Hegarty sells racing insurance but that's not I am thinking about. Not sure if if my current insurer (Progressive) can help.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 244K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 243K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Not sure about full cost but I am certainly thinking about buying specialty coverage that includes market price of the vehicle with all the mods included. Something equivalent to a market replacement value of modified car, not just a stock 2005 Legacy GT Wagon with 1/4 million miles on the odometer.

 

I know Hegarty sells racing insurance but that's not I am thinking about. Not sure if if my current insurer (Progressive) can help.

 

I looked into it and Hagerty does insure cars like ours, not just for track day. You can try the tool on their website. I'm not sure what other companies are out there. You can try calling Progressive and asking. Also, with the way the EPA is cracking down on modified cars it might be prudent to omit any information having to do with emissions.

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According to KBB my 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited Wagon with 5 speed MT and 240K miles is worth less then $4K even private party sale. Trade in is $666 average. I picked 50% good condition.

 

 

That's what my worry is, if the car gets in any serious accident the insurance payout will be pretty much nothing. AND we are talking totaled car at that point.

 

 

Here is the link to KBB estimation: https://www.kbb.com/subaru/legacy/2005/25-gt-limited-wagon-4d/?condition=good&intent=trade-in-sell&mileage=240000&modalview=false&options=61573%7ctrue%7c6411790%7ctrue&pricetype=private-party&vehicleid=1598

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 244K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 243K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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