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Lgt grinds into 2nd at times


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Check the fluid level before you do anything and report back to us.

 

There is a "cocktail of fluids" that will/may help the grinding. But it is a bandaid, not a repair.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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The question is... go with the cocktail or use Motul 300?

 

I'm about 8,000 miles into a transmission oil change with Lucas synthetic. Not completely unsatisfied but 2nd gear requires a bit of extra care.

 

Seems like either option would probably "solve" the issue.

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The question is... go with the cocktail or use Motul 300?
I would just go with the straight Motul 300. Sometimes, the transmission oil is just not a good match for the synchos and you get grinding. We used to get the real Extra-S that was a great match. Change every 30K.
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I would do this first ^^^

 

I used the cocktail to bandaid my 6mt for a few years. It did work, but when I recently had the syncros replaced the trans shop warned me not to use again b/c it really gummed things up.

 

 

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There is also the "BAC5.2 Cocktail" of Motul Gear 300 and Lightweight Shockproof, at ratios of 1:3 to 1:1. For frigid temps, a 1:1 or 1:2 mix should work better.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/best-transmission-differential-oil-200762p3.html

 

BAC5.2 wrote:

...As for Shockproof "eating synchros", that's a load of bollocks. I ran straight lightweight shockproof in my Forester for 100k, without any issues whatsoever. I've run it, and suggested it, for hundreds of Subarus without a single negative report. I've even torn down transmissions that have been running the Motul/Shockproof combo for a LONG time without any problems.

 

You should NOT use Synchromesh in a Subaru 5MT. Synchromesh is a fluid intended for gearboxes requiring GL-4 fluids. GL-4 fluids can't handle the shear loads seen in high offset hypoid gearsets (like our front differentials), and you'll see over time that fluid shears and wears the ring and pinion down to nothing in cars driven hard. I have a scar on my right index finger where a ring gear sliced through my glove.

 

Any GL4 fluid will cause this, not just Synchromesh. MT90, for example, will do the same thing. There was a small company who built kit race cars using the Subaru 5MT converted to FWD. They were running MT90, and were destroying front diffs after just a lap or two. They switched out to Motul/Shockproof and never had the issue again.

 

I've said for years, my preferred trans fluid setup is Motul and Lightweight Shockproof. It's what I recommend. As an alternative, I suggest Extra-S, Motul, or any other high quality synthetic. I don't recommend Royal Purple, Mobil 1, or Redline's 75W90NS, based on poor results. I am also a huge supporter of frequent fluid changes. I typically change my trans and rear diff fluid every 15-20k miles...

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