Sara32013 Posted November 7, 2017 Author Share Posted November 7, 2017 I’m glad it was just the pipe as well, but perhaps putting all that money into the heads would’ve taught her a lesson. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 That was lucky... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted November 8, 2017 Author Share Posted November 8, 2017 Hey guys, do you have to remove the intake manifold to replace this pipe Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 Is this the car that has 300K on the current engine? If so, the engine is almost ready for the pasture. Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 Your auto maintenance and care is like the polar opposite of his mother-in-law's! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 Hey guys, do you have to remove the intake manifold to replace this pipe Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Yes, it looks like you do. Because the only other way I see it can be done. If you can get to the pipe retaining bolts and rip the whole front off the motor again. To clear the "L" part of the pipe that runs behind the timing belt. You mite be able to remove it. Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted November 9, 2017 Author Share Posted November 9, 2017 Are the upper intake manifold gaskets reusable? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 I would not reuse them for the sake of saving a few bucks. Way to much labor to replace them. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted November 9, 2017 Author Share Posted November 9, 2017 I was thinking the same thing but everyone around here would have to order them, they are metal if that makes a difference Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 They are a crush type gasket. I thought they had a rubber type insert ? These are the ones between the TVG's and Heads ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted November 26, 2017 Author Share Posted November 26, 2017 Hey everyone, thought I would update ya’ll. I did end up reusing the old gasket, and so far there are no issues with that. However getting this thing back on the road turned into a 2 week nightmare. While removing the intake manifold I snapped the plastic hoses leading to the 90 degree elbow on the fuel rails (both sides). I decided just to buy new elbows and use a series of rubber lines and metal clamps to button everything up. After everything was back together both of the new elbows leaked, so I just decided to hook the rubber hoses straight up to the fuel rails. After that it was discovered that a couple of injectors were leaking. We ended up replacing some o-rings and the problem would just jump to another injector. After replacing the o-rings on all of the injectors they were still leaking. On top of this issue I had cross threaded a bolt that holds the fuel rail in place. I attempted to heli-coil it but that was a no go. Finally we called in someone else that was a little more mechanically inclined, he drilled the hole out larger to accommodate a larger bolt and heli-coiled it. He too was unsuccessful with the heli-coil after about 5 or 6 threads it kept skipping, we eventually made a bolt that was only the size of those 5 or 6 threads and it solved that issue, but was still leaking fuel. The other fellow suggested replacing the fuel rails, I found a set from a Forester with the injectors for only $40 on eBay. I put them on and I’ll be damned if one of the injectors was still leaking, I pulled it out and found that the o-ring on that injector was trashed, I replaced it and all has been well for over a week now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TickerPyro Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 So you got it all figured out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 Hey, sorry it's been so long. Those issues have been indeed resolved. I'm dealing with a new issue on this same car. It idles very low, so low it almost won't stay running. In fact the headlights are very dim if you aren't giving it gas, and they dim when you turn the wheel or do other things that require voltage. The car has been dying out occasionally when you turn the wheel? What could be the issue, possible dying alternator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TickerPyro Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 Wow, it's a miracle the motor will run at all! I guess I have been wasting money with all my 3750 mile oil changes. When I was working for Honda, we had a lady with a 1 year old/very gently used Accord, had a tad over 3k on it when she bought it. Well she brings the car into the shop at 49k and says her car sounds funny and she has some lights on on the dash. So we ask where she has her oil changed (since it is not on record after buying it) and she replies "I didn't know you had to change the oil, I just added some once". So we tell the woman she should really have a motor flush, since the oil that came out looked like a mix of tar and coffee grinds. And she says " Just change the oil, my son is a mechanic, ill talk to him about this flush thing". And it was said in a way to make it look like we were just selling snake oil. So BMW's fail because of the supposed 15k oil changes, Subies drop oil over 5k, and Hondas will run without an OC for 46k... Go figure. Some things in life that are just so trivial you will never forget. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TickerPyro Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 Hey, sorry it's been so long. Those issues have been indeed resolved. I'm dealing with a new issue on this same car. It idles very low, so low it almost won't stay running. In fact the headlights are very dim if you aren't giving it gas, and they dim when you turn the wheel or do other things that require voltage. The car has been dying out occasionally when you turn the wheel? What could be the issue, possible dying alternator? Yes this is 1 of 2 things, the alternator is shitting the bed, or your charging system is somehow corrupted. This meaning ground wires are missing or broken, so the car is trying to operate on a failed voltage regulation. My guess is alternator is going, or the belt that drives it is not tight enough. So check the belt first for slippage then if that is good id say fix the alt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 When I was working for Honda, we had a lady with a 1 year old/very gently used Accord, had a tad over 3k on it when she bought it. Well she brings the car into the shop at 49k and says her car sounds funny and she has some lights on on the dash. So we ask where she has her oil changed (since it is not on record after buying it) and she replies "I didn't know you had to change the oil, I just added some once". So we tell the woman she should really have a motor flush, since the oil that came out looked like a mix of tar and coffee grinds. And she says " Just change the oil, my son is a mechanic, ill talk to him about this flush thing". And it was said in a way to make it look like we were just selling snake oil. So BMW's fail because of the supposed 15k oil changes, Subies drop oil over 5k, and Hondas will run without an OC for 46k... Go figure. Some things in life that are just so trivial you will never forget. As a BMW owner I've had this discussion with my BMW mechanic on several occasions. He has not seen any evidence to suggest the 15K mile change interval has resulted in any engine damage. I typically have mine changed at 10K - 12K mile intervals any have not had any issues. I owned a 1985 Honda Accord SEi which had a recommended oil change of 7.5K miles on conventional oil. IMO anything less than 7.5K is essentially a waste of money (says the guy who has his Outback XT oil changed every 3K - 4K because it's so damn inexpensive to do so). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 Yes this is 1 of 2 things, the alternator is shitting the bed, or your charging system is somehow corrupted. This meaning ground wires are missing or broken, so the car is trying to operate on a failed voltage regulation. My guess is alternator is going, or the belt that drives it is not tight enough. So check the belt first for slippage then if that is good id say fix the alt. If it's possible I would recommend they take it to any major auto parts store where they can test the charging system and the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TickerPyro Posted March 21, 2018 Share Posted March 21, 2018 As a BMW owner I've had this discussion with my BMW mechanic on several occasions. He has not seen any evidence to suggest the 15K mile change interval has resulted in any engine damage. I typically have mine changed at 10K - 12K mile intervals any have not had any issues. I owned a 1985 Honda Accord SEi which had a recommended oil change of 7.5K miles on conventional oil. IMO anything less than 7.5K is essentially a waste of money (says the guy who has his Outback XT oil changed every 3K - 4K because it's so damn inexpensive to do so). Note that BMW posted a 10k oil chang in late 12 early 13. From what i understand is because of the failure of most cranks and vanos syatems on mainly 3 series motors. It is funny that you say you change it at 10 or 12 because that is the new norm. So because you didn't push the 15K you may have saved a ton of wear and tear that was unneeded. I was always under the impression you could not kill the straight 6. But i see junked 3 and 5 series that are less than 10 years old all over the place on CL in Florida. Many will say the 10k it is to get more service in the shop, but remember BMW pays for the service for most cars for the first few years at least. Just odd that most motors on BMW's fail in some way at 140-175k. When the late 80/early 90's were unkillable. But that was also way before Vanos and 170 computers controlling a car. I first started dealing with motor issues on BMW's in early 2000 and have seen the more power put through the motor, the earlier they failed. We had a bunch of M/S50 motors with spun bearings or just destroyed heads, or internal engine failures (rings and connecting rod failure). On all the cars i have worked on, the only car I can say was worse was the Saturn L series, or the old Ford Taurus. Now in no way am I a BMW hater, I ownded an 87 325EI Euro Spec w/ 320k kilometres, and a 95M3 w/ over 220k. Both were great cars, but working for BMW/MINI I saw some crazy stuff that i had never seen before happen to motors and trannys/clutches. I know it's long winded and off topic, but i hope it sheds a little light on 15k under warranty. But the wear it (allegedly) causes you have to deal with after the warranty has long expired. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted March 23, 2018 Author Share Posted March 23, 2018 Alright everyone, I'm hoping it's the alternator, I'm going to try to have it tested at some point today. However, it did have a broken ground for a very long time. I finally replaced about 3 or so months ago, but the braided wire I used is way too long, so I kind of have it held together in the middle with a bread tie type thing, I'm only using it to keep the wire from dangling. Anyhow, I told her that the alternator is most likely the issue and she said: "well it'll wait". The alternator is only $35 at a local junkyard. She was more concerned about getting her cigarette lighter ports working again, so she could charge her phone. I did, by the way, fix the cigarette lighter. Neither she or her boyfriend could figure out the issue.. which was just a blown fuse, it's been out for months and neither of them would just check the damn fuse. This is frustrating Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted March 23, 2018 Share Posted March 23, 2018 Note that BMW posted a 10k oil chang in late 12 early 13. From what i understand is because of the failure of most cranks and vanos syatems on mainly 3 series motors. It is funny that you say you change it at 10 or 12 because that is the new norm. So because you didn't push the 15K you may have saved a ton of wear and tear that was unneeded. I was always under the impression you could not kill the straight 6. But i see junked 3 and 5 series that are less than 10 years old all over the place on CL in Florida. Many will say the 10k it is to get more service in the shop, but remember BMW pays for the service for most cars for the first few years at least. Just odd that most motors on BMW's fail in some way at 140-175k. When the late 80/early 90's were unkillable. But that was also way before Vanos and 170 computers controlling a car. I first started dealing with motor issues on BMW's in early 2000 and have seen the more power put through the motor, the earlier they failed. We had a bunch of M/S50 motors with spun bearings or just destroyed heads, or internal engine failures (rings and connecting rod failure). On all the cars i have worked on, the only car I can say was worse was the Saturn L series, or the old Ford Taurus. Now in no way am I a BMW hater, I ownded an 87 325EI Euro Spec w/ 320k kilometres, and a 95M3 w/ over 220k. Both were great cars, but working for BMW/MINI I saw some crazy stuff that i had never seen before happen to motors and trannys/clutches. I know it's long winded and off topic, but i hope it sheds a little light on 15k under warranty. But the wear it (allegedly) causes you have to deal with after the warranty has long expired. BMW maintenance permitted a free oil change annually regardless of mileage. I changed my oil more frequently because it's inexpensive to do so and therefore cheap insurance. As a participant on BMW forums I cannot recall a single instance where someone had their engine fail due to the 15K oil change. I also mentioned my BMW mechanic hasn't seen any issues with it. Given this I see no issues with the 15K change interval. As for problems BMW, like many other vehicles, have solid power trains (engine, transmission, etc). As you said it's all the damn computers and ancillary parts which cause problems. I can just imagine how reliable today's vehicles would be if they were just an engine and transmission like they were in the old days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted March 23, 2018 Share Posted March 23, 2018 Alright everyone, I'm hoping it's the alternator, I'm going to try to have it tested at some point today. However, it did have a broken ground for a very long time. I finally replaced about 3 or so months ago, but the braided wire I used is way too long, so I kind of have it held together in the middle with a bread tie type thing, I'm only using it to keep the wire from dangling. Anyhow, I told her that the alternator is most likely the issue and she said: "well it'll wait". The alternator is only $35 at a local junkyard. She was more concerned about getting her cigarette lighter ports working again, so she could charge her phone. I did, by the way, fix the cigarette lighter. Neither she or her boyfriend could figure out the issue.. which was just a blown fuse, it's been out for months and neither of them would just check the damn fuse. This is frustrating If at all possible I would recommend replacement with a new / remanufactured unit. The alternator does wear and replacing it with an used unit may not be the wisest idea. I understand they're not cheap but if she intends to keep the car any length of time then new / remanufactured is probably a better value. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted March 23, 2018 Author Share Posted March 23, 2018 If at all possible I would recommend replacement with a new / remanufactured unit. The alternator does wear and replacing it with an used unit may not be the wisest idea. I understand they're not cheap but if she intends to keep the car any length of time then new / remanufactured is probably a better value. If you’ve read this entire thread you will know that her paying for a new alternator is not going to happen. She doesn’t even want to pay for the junkyard one, and she probably won’t. Anyhow, she wouldn’t go to Advance today so I could have it tested. We were literally a stone throw away from the store today and she wouldn’t go there. She does not care about the well being of the car, she will just drive it until it physically will not drive anymore. I’m done helping her, she can figure it out herself. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted March 24, 2018 Author Share Posted March 24, 2018 I lied in my previous post, i’m probably still going to try to fix it. She won’t be home this weekend and I’ll have her keys so I’m gonna do what I can. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TickerPyro Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 A junk Alt is really going to just leave her stranded on the road, on her way to bingo. Then someone will have to go pick her up, and you will probably have to get the car towed, unless you are close enough to home that you can run off plain old battery (arter you recharge it). In this car an alt is literally 10 mins to take out. 15-20 if you dont know what you are doing, 45 if you need to borrow tools. Just explain that it is going to leave her stranded, and she might cut you a break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sara32013 Posted March 24, 2018 Author Share Posted March 24, 2018 I have had the alternator out many times on this car and my old Subie. No explaining in the world will make her buy the new one, she doesn’t even wanna pony up the dough for the used one because it still currently runs.. once it stops working she will replace it. I bought a junkyard alternator for my old Subie and had no issues. The alternator on her car has a minimum 250,000 miles on it. If I find one with under 200k I think it’ll be alright. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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