computersoc Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 96k miles on my 2012 2.5i Premium. When I'm at idle, I get a bit of a stumble every 20 seconds. It's like it will stall but it picks back up and doesn't. I don't remember it being that bad before. I never tested hot vs cold temps to see if that helps. Also, when I shift into reverse from park or drive, it will do the same stumble. Pretty sure 100 percent of the time. Other than describing just that, what should I tell the dealer? Anyone think they'll give me a new torque converter or whatever the warranty covers? I just don't want to go there and have them say, sorry couldn't replicate, now you owe us an hour diagnostic time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 The torque converter lockup issue seem to be when the car stall when coming to a stop because the torque converter sticks and does not unlock in time. Your problem at 1st glance doesn't seem like that. Did you change the spark plugs at 60k miles? Have you changed the engine air filter? Another thing that could be happening is one of the coil packs is near failing. The age of your car in a snow belt area is around when some others have had coil fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
computersoc Posted October 16, 2017 Author Share Posted October 16, 2017 I change the air filter every 15k to 20k. It's fresh. I did not change the spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 might be time to change them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
computersoc Posted October 16, 2017 Author Share Posted October 16, 2017 What brand and model spark plugs should I get? How many do I need and how easy is it to change? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 just get the same ones that are in the car from the local parts store. Personally I use NGK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royalflush5 Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 The torque converter lockup issue seem to be when the car stall when coming to a stop because the torque converter sticks and does not unlock in time. Your problem at 1st glance doesn't seem like that. Did you change the spark plugs at 60k miles? Have you changed the engine air filter? Another thing that could be happening is one of the coil packs is near failing. The age of your car in a snow belt area is around when some others have had coil fail. Can I test my coil packs at home? I have a similar issue with that stumble he's describing, just not often. Had the torque converter replaced about 3.5k mi ago. I'm at 67k and had the 60k maintenance done at the dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 Every failed 5th Gen coil pack I have seen post on the forum has had warped cooling fins from rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 Yeah, coil packs are about like milk- if they look mostly okay and you think they're fine, they probably are, but you'll be able to tell real quick if they're bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royalflush5 Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 Thanks, I'll give them a once over just to check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
computersoc Posted October 24, 2017 Author Share Posted October 24, 2017 How many spark plugs does this car take and what's a good brand? Are they harder to replace because of the engine layout? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supercow2610 Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 How many spark plugs does this car take and what's a good brand? Are they harder to replace because of the engine layout? 4 for the H4. 2 on each side of the engine. You'll need to remove the airbox and air intake on the passenger side. For the driver side, you'll need to remove the battery. It will be a tight squeeze to work on the plugs on the driver side especially the one near the firewall. I believe a 24 mm deep socket + extension and a ratchet will do the job. NGK iridium are my go to plugs. Usually takes me 2.5 hours and some busted knuckles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
computersoc Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 That's probably why my usual shop that charges hourly and not book doesn't want to work on foreign cars' engines. The dealer would probably charge me book for 4 hours. I need the timing belt done too, would that save me any time getting both done at once? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 In the car makes no difference the two are separate services, the only savings might be a minimal amount of time disconnecting the intake and battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmills1 Posted October 28, 2017 Share Posted October 28, 2017 Just a quick note: from my understanding from SOA, the CVT warranty is good through July of 2018. This is good for my 236,000 2013 Legacy:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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