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oil found in spark plug well- gasket name?


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I have been having rough starts and the super rare misfire at start on my 1994 Legacy L 2.2L. Today I replaced the spark plugs and wires, the wires don't fit as snug as I'd like them to at the ignition terminal. More alarming was the presence of oil in the fourth cylinder, also the last one I changed.

 

I have spend a good amount of time here and googling what it means and what I need to do to repair it. I can't find the correct part number mainly because I don't know the correct name of the part. I have seen "Spark plug tube seal" and "Spark plug gasket" but when I try to find the part it appears that isn't correct. Pretty much everything I've found I know what it is with the exception of "spark plug non-fouler" but after searching that here that doesn't seem to have anything to do with my search.

 

Someone please help

 

Also the engine only has 130K and I plan on driving it forever, is this a project I can do easily on this car?

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You found oil in one the spark plug wells (aka spark plug tubes), correct? Not oil fouling the spark plug tip where the spark is actually produced?

 

If you are going to fix an external oil leak in that area, you should put in a new set of valve cover gaskets. Such as this:

 

Valve cover gaskets with bolt seals

FEL-PRO VS50395R

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1995,legacy,2.2l+h4,1269806,engine,valve+cover+gasket,10710

 

If you have the stock 2.2L for that model year, I don't think it has the spark plug tube seals. The spark plug tubes are located just above the valve covers.

 

You can do this fairly easily yourself if you have a metric socket set, metric wrenches or ratcheting wrenches, and a few other basic hand tools. A good work light will help.

 

Look for a walkthrough to help you, such as this one:

 

It's possible you may have oil leaking from another place. It will help if you clean and degrease the engine so you can see where the fresh oil is coming from.

 

If I misunderstood your question, please post more info.

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Thank you, I am amazed I explained it well enough for anyone to reply.

 

You nailed exactly what I was asking and I bought these Bosch that Amazon says fits my car. They just seem like they don't fit snugly at the ignition.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BYGF7M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The photo of the gasket set includes those little round things, what are those? I bought this beauty for $750 with 112K miles on it almost three years ago primarily to get me to the mountains to ski. It hasn't let me down yet, previously I hadn't had an automobile for nearly a decade.

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You should get a better fit and better reliability by using the NGK plug wires which are very similar to the original equipment. Maybe you can return the Bosch set since they didn't work very well for you.

 

Those round things are rubber grommets that seal around the bolts that hold the valve covers in place. If you watch that video walkthrough you will understand better where they go.

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You should get a better fit and better reliability by using the NGK plug wires which are very similar to the original equipment. Maybe you can return the Bosch set since they didn't work very well for you.

 

Those round things are rubber grommets that seal around the bolts that hold the valve covers in place. If you watch that video walkthrough you will understand better where they go.

 

NGK FTW! Iridium plugs and wires.

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I finally got around to checking the gaps of the old spark plugs, should I be concerned?

 

Gap widens over time. You should reset the plug gap to the factory spec which is in the range .039 to .043". Use a plug gapping tool for this. If the tips look worn, burned or fouled, put in new plugs.

 

Either NGK Platinum PFR6B11 or NGK Iridium IFR6E11 should work. They are expensive, but you won't have to change them again for a long time.

plug-chart.thumb.jpg.39ebb0c9bce4c582cc10fb6943bf9fe1.jpg

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Denso (4504) PK20TT Platinum TT Spark Plug

 

I put these in it all gapped at .044 which is what I had read on another site. I want this car to last a long time, not that 24 years isn't already a long time but, I'd like to get another 5 years out of it.

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...I want this car to last a long time, not that 24 years isn't already a long time but, I'd like to get another 5 years out of it.
Sounds like you are doing the right things. These cars will last if they don't rust out and they can be fairly easily maintained by the owner. Just follow the maintenance schedule. Especially the fluid changes for coolant, engine oil, trans oil and rear diff oil are important for longevity. On older cars, the rubber parts such as seals tend to go out. Inspect your hoses and belts, replace them as they get old and worn out. Also check your CV boots from time to time. Don't drive around with those boots ripped or cracked. Would be good to inspect the brakes, use fresh brake lube on the caliper sliding pins next time you in there.
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That is pretty typical. It is nothing serious. They get really hot and over time and melt like that. I had that on my second gen too. I'm not sure why but It's a fairly simple fix. Go to the junkyard and cut a good one off and then just splice it on to yours. Match up the colors of the wires. You can crimp or solder it on, but when I replaced mine I just twisted up the wires and electrical taped them together. I didn't have any other tools at the time.

 

If you want to do a better job, you can go to Harbor Freight and get some cheap marine heat shrink wrap. It has adhesive inside the shrink wrap. Just slide it over the wires before you join them. Then hit it with a heat gun or lighter, or even hair dryer and as it shrinks the adhesive melts and it makes a great waterproof seal.

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Use NGKs on your subie.

 

Replace your PCV valve if you haven't already. You will get excess blowby if it's old.

 

Ordered PCV valve today, be here Monday and I am headed to the junkyard for the wiring harness to fix the headlight, thank you so much

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While at the junkyard finding a wire harness for the head lamp, I also found some NGK spark plug wires.

 

I also removed the PCV on the engine there as a practice, easier than the fuel filter, air filter, both headlamps, brake pads, tie rods, alternator, knock sensor, TPS, or wiper blades (all things I have done already)

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Hello Morry;

The plug gap that I use is .038 inch. Be sure that you go to the parts store and get some dielectric grease (silicone). Use this on your spark plug boots to prevent arc over and boot welding! With proper care the 2.2l should go 300k miles. I would recommend that you check all of your timing components and water pump. I also live in the denver area and have 210k miles on my 1992 legacy wagon, Steven.

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