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My 2009 Legacy 3.0R

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Just recently purchased a 2009 Legacy 3.0R in Quartz Silver Metallic (wanted blue but sometimes you can't get everything you want) This will replace my 1994 Legacy.


It's a Canadian version because well I'm Canadian. Which means its almost a Limited version. We didn't get the Bilstein suspension or wheels the Limited 3.0r received in the USA and the brakes are the same as the 2.5i but the rest from what I can find is the same.


This is going to be my daily driver which is why I picked the 3.0r. I have another car to play with so I don't plan on doing any mods that will degrade the enjoyment of it being a daily driver. Not to say that I don't want it to be sporty. Going to try to hold off from modding the crap out of it but it will get its share of mods. Just not interested in ruining the ride and there is very limited engine upgrade option. There will definitely be reliability and convenience upgrades.


It has 170,00 KM (105K miles). It's in very good condition rust wise. It's gone thru a lot of winters up here and its done very well. The bottom of the doors is where it's showing that it hasn't lived its life in a dry sunny climate.


Format for this thread will be:

First post is completed mods and repairs/current state of the car

Second post is in progress mods and repairs.

Third is future mods and repairs.


After a bunch of work after I first got her, this is the first time out of the garage, fitting day for a Subaru.



You can see the car this car replaced in the background







2017-170k KM

Rebuilt both front axles. Both inner and outer were cleaned, greased and had new boots installed

Replaced spark plugs with NGK ILFR6B

Replaced both steering rack boots

Replaced both front ball joints

Replaced front sway bar bushings and end links

Replaced both front and rear rotors (Will be upgrading to GT brakes next time I need brakes, didn't expect to need rotors right away)

Cleaned and Painted with POR15 the front and left coolant crossover pipes

Cleaned and Painted with POR15 the small amount of rust on the rear sub frame

ALL Fluids replaced.

Engine 0W-40 Amsoil Signature Series

Flushed Trans Subaru ATF-HP

Coolant Subaru Super coolant w/Conditioner

Front and rear diff Amsoil Sever gear 75W-110

Flushed brake fluid with Dot 3

Flushed Power Steering Subaru ATF-HP

Installed Subaru Block Heater

Replaced accessory belt

Fixed broken front doors weatherstripping

Cleaned and Painted Front LCAs with POR15

Replaced Front LCA bushings, OEM front, Mevotech rear

Fixed broken weather striping (plastic holding tab) on both front doors

Fixed rear squeaking over bumps (oiled rear control arms forward bushing)






Koni adjustable on all 4 corners

Rear diff bushings Insert Kit front and rear bushings: Prothane 16-1610

Auto dimming rearview mirror with Homelink and compass (orange)

Rear sway bar upgrade to JDM 19mm

Rear sway bar mount reinforcements - DIY



Plasti-dipped Chrome "wing" in grill

Front Lip - Baysonr V-Limited Style

Tinted rear reflectors with Nite-Shades

08/09 Spec. b Rims with Firestone Indy 500's

Hidden Hitch - old tube style



JDM Dual Console Armrest w/ extendable armrest mounted on top of it



Remote start/alarm 2-way compustar installed myself (turns on wiper/side mirror heaters and rear defrost in the cold. enables/disables trunk button)

Hardwired dash cam power

Wired all doors to open on single button press/Unlock all doors with drivers door

Remote engine start and garage door open via google home

Turn on block and cabin heater via google home

GROM Bluetooth - not exactly happy with it so far so this may get changed out

Trunk unlatch button on the trunk "handle" so when car is unlocked the trunk can be opened without the use of the FOB or lever on the floor

Defa Kit - Block heater, Cabin heater and battery charger. Maintains battery, has car and engine warmed up for time in which it be programed for. Or can be controlled via wifi switch/google home etc.



Headlights - Custom cut brackets holding Morimoto D2S 4.0 (modified with a shield drop and J-slope) with Phillips 85122 and Matsushita ballasts. Painted chrome shrouds stain black with some chrome accents left over.

Fog Lights - Ford fusion/focus projector fogs, painted satin black, custom cut brackets, running DDM 3000K H11 bulbs and ballast (wouldn't recommend DDM) Clear plexiglass over fog openings to protect them.

Independent fog light mod, not fully - need parking lights on but I'm happy with that

LED Panel lights in doors and in trunk

Third brake light retrofitted with LED - Parts used for retrofit

Reverse lights - White LED 921 (OEM 921) Same as T15 AUXITO 2000LM 921-912 LED

Front Turn/Parking - Amber LED 7443 (same as 3157/1157)(OEM 3457A) Alla Lighting 7443 7440 LED Signal Lights Bulbs 2600 Lumens 21W CREE Amber

SmartTap LED turn signal flasher



Nexus 7 running timurs ROM

Backup Cam


Engine.....its a 3.0

Installed Heat Shield over headers and cats

Patched ROM for CAN extended parameters

Edited by nevets27
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In Progress


-Nexus 7 install. See first post about that here


-Push to pass, really pull to pass - parts ordered


-Parrot bluetooth


-Airbag recall



Parts I need to purchase


Nexus 7 install parts




I think I'll need to re-organize this section.


Completed/Archived In Progress


-Rear bushing on the front control arms was just starting to tear so I'm going to replace both bushings on the front control arms. Haven't decided on a replacement, wont be stock though


-Koni shocks upgrade, got them in a box ready to go (thanks to trac3)


-add the ability to say "hey google start my car" when home which will open the garage and remote start my car (parts ordere


-Both inner CV boot were ripped. Inner joints has been disassembled and cleaned. Need to order new boot for inner and outer as the outers are showing there age.


-Drivers side front ball joint was bad, removed both front ball joints so they will both get replaced. After reading the high chance of breaking the pinch bolt I was cautions and heated the knuckle with a oxy acetylene torch and got the bolt out in one piece. Make sure you protect the CV boot if you are going to do this. Will be replacing with a higher grade bolt. Also made a ball joint pulling tool, which mad quick work of pulling the ball joint out.


-Removed and opened up headlights for HID retrofit. Installing Morimoto D2S 4.0 in the low beam location. Working on creating brackets currently. (Yes I know there is the retro-quik kit but wanted to used D2S not H1 and I also already had them) Removed the amber reflectors. Trying to decide how the chrome is going to get painted.


-Front grill is going to get modified. Not sure how yet. I did order some mesh but not sure what I'll end up doing. edit: Mesh is out of stock so might start by just a bit of plastidip


-Replacing all fluids.

Engine oil will be using Amsoil

Diff oil will be using Amsoil

Tranny will be using Subaru ATF HP

Coolant will be using Subaru

Brake fluid not sure on a brand yet if it really matters

Power Steering will be using Dexron 3


-Replacing spark plugs -NGK ILFR6B



Parts I need to purchase (Archive)


CV boots both inner and outer

Front ball joints

Front control arm bushings

Front sway bar end links.


Engine and tranny oil filters

Spark plugs

Accessory belt

Various clips and bolts



I'm open to advice on where I should get my parts and what brands to use.


CV boots, has anyone found some inners that are more durable then others? Ones that could better withstand the heat of the exhaust would likely last longer. Looks like options are rockauto which only lists BECK/ARNLEY, subaru or local parts stores which are only NAPA and Part Source/Canadian Tire - Ordered rockauto Beck/Arnley


Front ball joints, any brand people prefer over another? - Ordered Moog


I could also just buy the mevotech aluminum control arm with bushings and ball joint but not sure if its worth it. Also been told mevotech is junk but can't see to find any evidence to confirm that. Or get used OEM aluminum and rebuild them with fresh bushings and ball joints.


Front control arm bushings. What are my choices? From what I've read, option are OEM which would rip the same way. Rockauto aftermarket. Group-N which looks to hard to find. Poly from ether whiteline, AVO or energy suspension. Is that correct? - Thinking whiteline adjust rear with stock rubber fronts.


Front sway bar end links. Mine are worn out. Suggestions on replacements? - Ordered Moog


Fluids. Open to suggestions here. My family uses Amsoil so I will at least be using their engine oil. As far as other fluids I'm not sure if OEM or Amsoil is better. On my 94 legacy I remember most people suggesting to used Subaru ATF. Coolant seems logical to go with the Subaru stuff as its really long life. Diff oil I've used Amsoil before so I think in this case it would be better then OEM. Brake fluid I'm sure isn't a big difference between manufactures.


Filters. I usually use WIX engine oil filters. What are peoples preference here? It looks like on the 3.0 there is room for a longer oil filter, has anyone used a different part number to get a higher capacity oil filter? Tranny oil filter, I assume I should go with OEM subaru filter here. I didn't see or read much on here about people changing them. Read more about dumping the fluid. How often do people change this filter? - Going to buy OEM


Pop-its, anyone replace them with ones that don't seize or break as easy? Know of a good source for new ones. OEM type or not?

Edited by nevets27
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-Rear Roof Spoiler - Stanza or ebay

-Roof Line third brake light, likely bulit into the above spoiler - Research/Build log here and here

-Rear reflectors modded into rear fogs - same build logs as above. Turns out in JDM? they had rear fogs in the bumper from factory which is why they have a different design in that area. So it might be easier to swap to a JDM bumper.

-Accelerometer third brake light flasher - Like this one Likely need to convert to LED first due to the fast blink rate. Which means the roof line LED might have to come first.

-Auto sunroof close - Pre-made module here but likely build my own based off an ardunio to have more features like open at high temp close at a low temp, close if detecting rain etc.

-LGT Brakes - Will need Calipers, Rotors, Brackets etc. (Since this car came with the 2.5i brake setup)

-Rear Diffuser like the one made by forum member "Hanger" as seen here. Would also like one that wrapped down further and covered my hitch

-Exhaust tips slant cut - Like the perrins here but hopefully find something a bit cheaper

-Hood protective film - then can remove bug deflector

-Headlight protective film - Clean and clear headlights first

-Trunk wing/lip - Want and like the style of the RBS Ver II Rear Lip Spoiler seen here seems like RRev Spoiler S Type Model #0509LGTSPR-S here looks similar and so does the stanza here

-Trunk unlatch button on the trunk "handle" so when car is unlocked the trunk can be opened without the use of the FOB or lever on the floor

-Swap + and - at the shifter - Swap wires here (cleaner) or move the switches here

-Light tint on rear tail lights, keeping the reverse section clear - Maybe - Seen here (with trunk lip)

-Ambient foot well lighting - Red

-"push to pass" module - making box to switch to sport # and down shift as low as possible upon hold the downshift paddle

-Exhaust cutouts installed right before both mufflers - would like to hear the flat six sound when I want to - Might mod vacuum version to use an electric solenoid

-Lengthen steering column - Some info here and here

-Various Lighting upgrades

-Armrest height addition to the drivers side door (might do passenger to match) Haven't decided on an add on piece or getting the door card recovered

-Likely go to a honeycomb grill, slight possibility of going mesh

-RAP (Retained Accessory Module) - Some info here on building one but its missing some info

-Flip key - Maybe - Guide here

-Disable low beam on flash to pass if headlights aren’t on. Currently pulling the stock turns the low beam HIDs on. Apparently OEM's do this anyway so not a huge concern but puts a bit of wear on the bulbs/ballasts.

-JDM Folding side mirrors

-EDM/JDM HID's with leveling motors and headlight washers (which will require and entire front end. Hood, front fenders, front bumper and headlights)

-EDM Center console

-2015-2017 STi Steering wheel, mod to make all controls work including phone (answer, hang up and voice dial) (Might have issues with any steering wheel with more buttons due to limited amount of wires in stock clock spring/roll pin. Might need to see if swapping clock springs is feasible.

-Front sway bar upgrade to Tribeca 25mm

-Rear sway bar upgrade to JDM 20mm or Whiteline 20mm rear

-Rear sway bar with bushings CKE 19/20mm

-Front sway bar bushings CKE 24/26mm

-Rear sway bar mount reinforcements: CKE CKE-ebay DIY

-Homelink with compass rearview mirror

-Hood struts - Some info here, looking for more info (bracket pictures, ball size/thread strut length and strength)


-Trans mount insert: CKE Rallitek


Rear diff bushings

- Insert Kit front and rear bushings: Whiteline KDT903 Prothane 16-1610

- Rear inserts only: Whiteline KDT927

- Full front bushing replacement: Whiteline KDT905 Prothane 16-1609

- Full bushing replacement, in subframe, likely requires dropping subframe: Whiteline KDT906

- Or just fill gaps with window weld, info here

Whiteline bushing location and part number image



Reverse lights - White LED 921 (OEM 921) Same as T15 Amazon ebay (make offer) ebay cheaper (make offer)

Front Turn/Parking - Amber LED 7443 (same as 3157/1157)(OEM 3457A) Amazon ebay (make offer) another ebay (cheaper no make offer)

Rear Turn/Marker - Amber LED 7440 but will use 7443 (same as 3157/1157)(OEM WY21W) Amazon ebay (make offer) 7443 can replace 7440 but 7440 is single filament and 7443 is dual filament. So the same bulb can be used in the front and rear, even though the rear is single filament.

Rear Brake Lights - Red LED 7443 (same as 3157/1157)(OEM W21) Amazon ebay (make offer)

Third/High Mount brake light - Red LED 7440 (OEM W21W) but will use 7443 (same as 1157/3157) Amazon ebay (make offer) 7443 can replace 7440 but 7440 is single filament and 7443 is dual filament. So the same bulb used in the tail lights could work in the third brake light.

7440 (same as 1156/3156)

Bulb Guide

Cross reference Guide




-Headers if I can find some, if so then will also need new cats and y pipe. Or maybe just 3rd cat delete and keep stock cats.

-Open source tune to improve over the OEM tune? Improve the Fly by wire?

-ECU tuning of the 5EAT, requested torque etc.





-Backup Cam

-Tap into OEM HU seek forward and reverse on PCB - Scraped this idea for now, now plan on using the GROM to control it via "ipod" connector/emulation, this idea also has to be scrapped as GROM removed 30 pin ipod support in latest firmware.

-Tap into steering wheel seek forward and reverse - see above

-Both will go into an arduino then into Nexus/android - may still use a arduino for rotor/joystick controls




-Replace ground wires from engine block to frame, mine are a bit corroded

-Rear suspension bushings will be inspected

-Engine/Tranny/diff mounts will be inspected




-Whiteline rear diff bushings - KDT927

-Tranny mount insert ebay

-Tires for 18in Spec b Wheels

-Leather steering wheel cover stitched, if not buy the STi wheel - Example here

-Would like the armrest and shift boot covered to match - Available here Look like OEM WRX armrest might be a direct fit...

-Would also like a leather with red stitched shift knob for AT

-Philips 9011 HIR High beam bulbs, better yet some sort on projector (stock high bean has too much foreground light)

-Reverse LED lights - Auxito

-Mirror with auto dim, red compass and homelink




Under construction/Cleaning

Changed my mind or took a different path

-Parrot Bluetooth Hands free - Wired to Nav stereo input on PCB, with Nav mute - Info



Want to Buy (PM me if you have it)

Anything listed in the above future mods list.


RBS Ver II Rear Lip Spoiler or something very similar to that style

Exhaust tips - Perrin - https://www.perrin.com/shop/exhaust/exhaust-tip

Stock LGT brake setup, need to upgrade my 2.5i stock setup


JDM Nav Bezel Part #H0017AG932 (yes I want the one with the bigger opening)

JDM mesh or honeycomb grill

Rear sway bar - JDM 20mm?

Raptor Headers

Front Aluminum LCAs

Rear Aluminum Control Arms






Sway Bar info










stock USDM

front 21

rear 15 or 16

split 5 or 6



front 21

rear 19 or 20

split 1 or 2


"OEM" upgrade

front 25 (Tribeca)

Rear 19 or 20 (JDM)

split 5 or 6


Typically most people run 22mm front 20mm rear.




-Tactrix cable

-Fog light upgrade - Got some projectors for this

-New wheels - Got some 08/09 spec.b :)

-Trailer hitch, old tube style curt

-Koni shocks

-Remote Start/Alarm

-Parrot Mki9100


-JDM Dual Center Console # J2017AG000

Edited by nevets27
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Regarding the Mevotech aluminum LCAs, I have them and I am pleased. They have a solid rubber rear bushing as opposed to the OEM style with the voids. They also come with new ball joints that are the beefier style from the STI.


For the oil filters I use OEM Subaru filters on my 3.0R.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks for the info 98legwag. I'll consider them if they cross my path.


Maintenance parts:



Reliability improvement, DEI Form-A-Shield. Going to put on top of the cats and headers to protect CV and power steering boots. Will get an installed pic.




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Regarding the Mevotech aluminum LCAs, I have them and I am pleased. They have a solid rubber rear bushing as opposed to the OEM style with the voids. They also come with new ball joints that are the beefier style from the STI.


For the oil filters I use OEM Subaru filters on my 3.0R.


Im selling a lightly used set of aluminum LCAs if you are interested :)


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Can a mod tell me where my attachments went?


Front Axle/CV Shaft Rebuild:

There is a bunch of guides out there so this isn't a guide but more of an overview of my process. No before pictures, hands were dirty. Dissembling the inner tripod joint is pretty straight forward, remove both clips. Most guides don't tell you to mark all parts so they go back the to there original location and orientation. It might not be necessary (does tell you to do it in the service manual) but better safe then sorry.


Outer CV joint is a bit more of a pain but you have to bang it off. It used the same type of clip that holds the inner inside the diff. Google how people remove them and also how to dissemble the CV joint. Though reassembling the CV joint was a pain in the ass.


Now just grease, boot and assemble. Word on grease. Subaru specs a different grease for the inner and outer. The inner is a tripod, which as 3 closed needle bearings. The inner grease is therefore different is some way. So the inner joint should use something specifically designed for that. Both inner and outer grease can be ordered from Subaru. I used genuine Subaru grease for the inners. Since the outer is a normal generic CV I used valvoline synpower cv




All clean and ready to be assembled



Used a banjo bolt and a hand grease packing tool to force grease into the bearings that had been cleaned



Outer CV fully disassembled, new bands and grease pack that came with the boots that I didn't use



Inner tripod with grease packed bearings, I fixed the slightly bent retaining ring



Outer CV



Inner tripod


Edited by nevets27
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  • 1 month later...

Well I was going liven up the thread with pictures but attaching pictures to this site is a nightmare.


My previous post has all my attachments removed. All the attachments I've been trying to upload are under the size and dimension requirements. Keep getting invalid attachment. For some reason make the the attachment smaller works sometimes. Which doesn't make sense.


And then I get invalid token. Been trying all these different ways to try to get them on this site. I had hope to post some info and guides and such but unless there is a better way I'll have to host the pictures elsewhere which I rather not do.


.....I'm very much computer literate...

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Well I was going liven up the thread with pictures but attaching pictures to this site is a nightmare.


My previous post has all my attachments removed. All the attachments I've been trying to upload are under the size and dimension requirements. Keep getting invalid attachment. For some reason make the the attachment smaller works sometimes. Which doesn't make sense.


And then I get invalid token. Been trying all these different ways to try to get them on this site. I had hope to post some info and guides and such but unless there is a better way I'll have to host the pictures elsewhere which I rather not do.


.....I'm very much computer literate...


try putting them to imgur etc. (anywhere but photobucket, now worthless...photo$ucket)


and link them back here.


I would like to see what you did with shielding the boots from the cats. :)

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Well because you asked. I was hoping to have all the pictures uploaded here for various reasons but for now offsite hosting it is.


Took these pics before tightening up the metal straps, which is why they are still long and hanging around.


Top of cat covered



I had a steering boot crack also, so seeing how much heat they are subject to I covered the headers also.







I'm confident due the the thickness that this mat is way more effective then header wrap. It also won't get soaked by water or get contaminated by oil/grease due to the top side being aluminum. I didn't want to have header wrap or this mat around the entire cat/header. I figured this would let some heat out under the car. I didn't want to increase the heat inside the cat or headers.


I would suggest using the stainless steel ties, like I did or the other type of stainless steel straps that need a tool. The ties use a ball lock and are kind of like a zip tie. The other type is just a strap that needs to pulled with this tool:



The thing with the ties is they are nice that you just pull but they don't tighten up well on their own. Since I bought and used that tool for doing my CV boots I actually used it on the steel ties to pull them tighter and then bent the strap over like how its done on CV boot straps to lock them. That worked well.


Or you could use wire as the instructions said was an option but I rather the ties.

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Since there is some talk in another thread I figured I would post up a "teaser"


These are my new fogs, before and after painting. I'll post all the info after I complete the retrofit.






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  • 1 month later...

OP updated with pics finally and updated completed, in progress and future. Added some pics to the headlight build thread on HIDplanet. After I finish the build log there I'll copy some of it here as I doubt you guys want to hear about too many details. Here's a pic though, follow the link from a couple posts up to see more.



After I get caught up with what has been done I can progress with posting about my in progress nexus install.

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Rear sub frame had a bit of surface rust so cleaned it off with a scaler and some acid then painted with POR15

The pictures of the rust is after they had the acid applied which is why it looks yellow and white










While I was painting my headlight parts I hit the front grill with some plasti-dip. Did a few light coats, which left just a bit of chrome coming through it. Which makes it look like the same dark grey as the rest of the grill. I was going to paint all the dark parts of the grill along with the center wing so they all matched in black but the screws for the chrome trim were rusted so I decided against it. I'm glad I did, I'm going to go with this for a bit and see how I like it. Just needed to so something to that center wing.



Also installed a block heater in my H6, you can just see I painted the coolant cross over pipe also with por15


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Now onto a bit more interesting mods. I'll start with the fogs as they are a little more straight forward then the headlights.


The fogs fit into the brackets I made with no modification and mount the same as they would have in the Ford. Only very slight modifications were made to the bumper which have no real effect on anything, you could easily go back to OEM projectors. One relief cut was made on each projector to have it fit really well in the bumper. These actually snap into the OEM tab of the bumper on one side. The bracket is then bolted to the side of the fog light tunnel which required two holes.


Fogs are from a ford fusion/focus. Ballast are DDM 35 watt Bulbs are HID H11 3000K. Review of DDM products at the bottom.


Now before someone goes on a rampage about HID's in fogs or HID kits in general. Research was done first and first hand experience shows that this combination works well and does not cause any issues to the user or other motorists. I unfortunately don't have any output shots right now but will update this when I do. In the meantime google has more then enough info of others who have put HIDs into these projectors. Also there is another major reason HIDs were used. They are one of the few real ways to get proper yellow light, which is why I used 3000K. I didn't want yellow fogs for looks but for function, yellow light is better in poor weather conditions which is when these are intended to be used.


Painted satin black with DDM HID bulbs and ballast



Designed and got cut some custom brackets for them



I didn't make any major modifications to the fog lights. Just a small clearance cut on both of them. You'll also see that there isn't a right and left projector. Ford just made one so the left and right brackets aren't actually mirrors of each other.


Before bracket was bent test fitting



Test fitting



Mounting the ballasts to the side of the bracket.



This is all the modifications that were done to the bumper



Mounted and bolted in.




Not sure why it looks crooked here, either its not completely mounted or it just looks like it. Both projectors are definitely level because well I used a....level.



Covered the holes with clear plexi-glas to protect the lens of the projector

(the protective film is still one which is why its blue)




Ready to be re-installed



I didn't get a shot of them installed from the front yet. I'll have to wait for a nice day when the car is clean. I also have a video of how easy these are to install, for the most part I did it all with one hand, might post that at some point if there is any interest.



DDM's are cheap, never used them before and would never use them in my headlights. First set I got and one of the ballast didn't work and looked like it had a obvious physical manufacturing defect. They were a pain to deal with and wouldn't send me a new ballast until I cut the wire of the malfunctioning one and sent them a picture. The ballast did somewhat work, just it would go out and flicker all the time and they were already installed in the car so cutting the wire was annoying and stupid so I sent them a terrible paintshop photo shop of the wire cut. Finally they sent a new ballast but was too late to leave feedback on ebay. Haven't had a chance to put the new ballast in yet.


I guess this post also should finish off with the independent fog light mod. Took my inspiration from a couple other threads and I think after I did it this way I saw that another user here did it the same way. Either way here it is. This one does require the parking lights to be on, after thinking about having them 100% independent I realized there wasn't any scenario where I would want them one without the parking lights.


Don't remember off hand the pin numbers but it should be pretty self explanatory with reading the wiring diagrams.


Cut blue white wire at the relay box beside the fuse box under the dash. Tap into green white. You could actually do it even cleaner and de-pin the green white and tap into the wire closer to the pin so the blue white wire goes into the whole and you wouldn't even see the tap but I cut the blue white a bit short for that. Of course it was warped in electrical tape.



Made a jumper that fits in nice and tight, this is up by the turn signal stock.



Nice and clean.

Edited by nevets27
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I'll get back to the headlight retrofit later. Though the build log is actually finished here on HID planet


I've been doing a lot of work researching, planing and purchasing for my Nexus 7, bluetooth hands free etc. install.


The plan/requirements/parts.


Audio requirements:

Play music from Nexus 7

Stream music over bluetooth

Have the AUX in port still available

Take calls over bluetooth, mute speakers automatically when on any input (radio, cd) and have the call audio play over the speakers

Have the nexus 7 interrupt (mute music) the audio when listening to music on any input (radio, cd) during navigation for turn by turn.


Plan/hardware to enable the above requirements

Nexus 7 running timur rom


Parrot Mki9100 for hands free calls

Bluetooth receiver (not sure which one yet) Yes the parrot can do bluetooth streaming but its going to be low quality so makes more sense to use a separate receiver that can use newer bluetooth specs like aptx HD. Also the parrot is kind of dedicated to hands free in this configuration


The parrot is going to be wired into the HU via the navigation input on i88. More info on that here.


That leaves 2 inputs and the stock aux in, for a total of 3 inputs to the stock HU.


Option 1 is to wire all 3 into an audio mixer and then out to the stock aux in. Since only 1 of the 3 will be used at any one time to listen to music.


Option 2, wire all 3 inputs directly to the HU aux in, which doesn't seem like a good idea.


Option 3, I just though of and if it can be done might have the nicest outcome.

Wire the nexus USB to GROM USB. This should allow media to stream through the USB, won't even need a DAC. And it allows pause/skip via HU controls and car controls.

It should work according to GROM


Does anyone have a GROM-USB3 (on any model with USB for that matter) and tried it before?

Wire a bluetooth receiver to the GROM external input OR use the bluetooth adapter they sell, for music streaming


While researching I did also learned that you can plug an android phone into a 30 pin ipod connector and get audio and controls.

You'll need

The app

A DIY 30 pin to USB/headphone jack cable


To power everything:

I want to insure I have enough 5v power to run everything comfortably. I over estimated that I'll need 6 amps for nexus (I know it won't even draw 2 amps but there is a good chance it will get replaced with something more power hungry in the future). 6 amps for the USB hub in the dash. 6 amps for the USB hub in the console armrest. I was also going to wire up a couple USB charging ports and wanted a minimum of 2 amps per port, which would have been another 6 amps total but the fast charging standards are screwy. Fast charging requires voltage changes so I haven't seen a good DIY version. I did buy a board capable of QC though to test out. So I need about 12 amps in the dash and 6 in the arm rest. I've found a couple different ways to get the need power and I'll post them up after I can get them more organized and ordered. Cheap over rated china crap makes this more difficult.


I also bought a usb tester with some dummy loads to test what every power supply and cabling I end up with to see their true capabilities before putting them in the car. They are neat little things and I'll likely get a little bit nicer one later on as they are are seemingly get more popular and more feature rich.

If you are curious I ended up with these parts:

USB Tester with QC trigger

Dummy load

That covers power for now.


Some incite to the reset of the hardware and configuration. I should probably draw up a diagram at some point as this might sound confusing.


Nexus 7 will be wired to a OTG power splitter cable (I'm going to make my own circuit on a board but that isn't important) then to the output of USB hub 1 in the dash.

The following will be plugged into that hub:

USB DAC (might not be if I end up using a GROM)

Joycon (might not be if I end up using a GROM)

Joystick/HID - Something to control the tablet without touching the screen.

but haven't found anything out there like this

Output of Hub 2


Hub 2 will be in the center console armrest with the following plugged into it.

Rear backup camera

Tatrix Cable

USB Digital ATSC TV Tuner - just because, no real reason for it

USB thumb drive with music

MicroSD card reader, to I can copy stuff off my dash cam


Side note about the Nexus 7 and polarized sunglasses. When I first used it with my sunglasses I was confused as why the screen was going completely black. Holding the table in portrait and the problem goes away, hold it landscape and it goes black. A little googling and it turns out the nexus uses a polarized screen. If the polarizing lines up with each other it blocks out the screen entirely. Solution 1 don't use polarized sunglasses. Didn't want to give mine up so, option 2. I saw some evidence that using a matte/anti-glare screen protector cancels out the polarization of the nexus. Sure enough it works perfectly. So that's option 2. There was a good chance an anti-glare screen protector would have made its way onto the tablet anyway but it is a perfect fix for polarized sunglasses.


Need to buy most of what I've listed for this install. I do have the nexus though. Suggestions for power, USB hub and backup cam welcome.

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  • 1 month later...

Well I can now officially start my car by saying "Ok Google, start my car" :)



And now it will open my garage door also within the same command.


So I can now set a schedule for the block heater via my phone or ask google to warm up my car.


I can also ask it to start my car and it will open the garage and start the car. Of course that can be set on a schedule also.

Edited by nevets27
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Tough crowd....


Within the next week or so should be getting the koni's installed. Replace all the front LCA bushings and fix the exhaust tip hanging low on one side.


Fixed both front door weather strips that the plastic tab broke off. Pretty terriblely designed but it's unlikely they will break again as I fabbed up a stainless steel plate to repair/replace the tab.


Mod list is getting longer but an idea I had the other day that I know would be possible is a "push to pass" function.


Reason and how it will function is this. I've noticed that when I make a quick decision to pass I have to hit far more buttons then I would like. That being sport # and down shift a few times (left paddle).


What I intend to have happen is if the left/down shift paddle is held for 2 seconds or more than a signal will be sent to out the car to put it in sport # then send 5 down shift signals.


So, hold downshift paddle, Si mode goes to sport # and downshifts and far as it can.


Since both the sport # and paddles are just buttons I should be able to use something like an Arduino to detect if the paddle is being held down and if so tigger the switches.


Open to suggestions to how to fully accomplish it though.

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Thanks. Maybe I'll post some more pics. Just a pain to get them from my phone to a hosting site and posted here but everyone likes pictures. Though my latest is just fixing weather striping. Was going to do a video of starting my car with my voice but not sure if anyone is as impressed/happy with it as I am.


You didn't miss it. I'm just using stock springs, I don't have any desire to lower the car.


I might be interested in stiffer stock springs, ones that don't lower but I will at the very least be trying the koni's with the stock first. I don't know of any stiffer stock height springs anyway.


Though I doubt I'll want stiffer springs. This is a DD and rather some comfort over sporty.

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