tsherry Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 Hello all, new to the site. I've owned a few subarus but I would not say i'm a subaru guy. I mostly build jeeps and volvos. I bought a 97 Legacy GT with 90k on the body. It had a bad motor knock, i only paid $400 for the car. I got a motor out of a 96 Legacy outback to replace the bad one. They are both EJ25 motors. I got the new motor in and it turns all day but i cannot get any spark. I swapped the intake manifold and wiring from the original motor and still no spark. I'm getting fuel, i've checked the under hood fuses. Any help is appreciated. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 Assuming you swapped all the ignition parts from the running/knocking motor. I would think maybe it's something on the ECU/Security end of the system. Such as, if the 97 has a security system and something has tricked it into thinking somethings wrong and it immobilized the car. Cutting spark is usually how security systems immobilize cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsherry Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 Now that you mention it. As soon as i connected the battery after the swapping over the intakes, the alarm kept going off. I had to put the key in the ignition and then connect the battery for it to not go off. Car did not come with an alarm FOB. Any idea how to disable that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmedic Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code alarm Programming or Overriding the Alarm when you have lost the remote Open driver's door. Turn ignition key to 'On' Press and *hold programming button* in (see diagram, button under dashboard) After 15 seconds the the door locks will cycle 3 times. Do not release Programming button Press lock (left) button the remotes to be programmed. The door locks will cycle one time. Exit programming mode by releasing Programming button under dashboard and turning key to off. Code Alarm Programming Button is under dashboard on the kick panel by the driver's left knee, left of the steering column. If you can't find it, it might still be tucked up in the wiring harness higher up in that same general area. The botton is recessed in a plastic ring (see diagram). This button must be pressed while programming remotes or if the battery was disconnected and the lights are flashing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsherry Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 Sweet, i'll try that as soon as i get home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 If I were you, I'd buy a used key fob and try reprogramming it, they're pretty cheap and that's also just be a nice thing to have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsherry Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 I was thinking the same thing. I check around for one today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsherry Posted October 12, 2017 Author Share Posted October 12, 2017 So i did the alarm reset and still no spark. Started pulling the timing covers on both motors to see if there is something different. I think i found the issue with the old motor in the process. The crank pulley bolt was basically hand tight. Once i got the bolt out, the pulley just fell off. The alignment tooth was mangled and the notch in the pulley was blown out like the guy who rebuilt it did not align it properly and just cranked it on till it was snug. Couldn't get the bolt off the motor in the car so i guess i'll be pulling the radiator tonight. New question though. Would swapping the ECU from the donor car that i got the motor from help with this no spark issue? Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmedic Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Not if there's an issue with the crank position sensor or the crankshaft timing gear. Don't think there's any significant difference in the EJ25D motors as far as the reluctor pattern is concerned so they all pretty much use the same ECU. In fact a lot of guys doing 2.2 swaps (which, why for the love of all things six star did you not?) use the original 2.5 ECU their cars came with without issue. . . aside from the occasional check engine light due to lack of EGR on a lot of 2.2 motors. In short if it was running on your old ECU and you didn't let out any magic smoke, it should still be running as long as it's getting the right info from the motor. Check grounds on the manifold. The ECU grounds are there so if you forgot to put those back, no sparky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsherry Posted October 12, 2017 Author Share Posted October 12, 2017 Well i got the donor motor for free from my cousin. He bought the donor car to swap the manual trans to his other car. I cannot find any grounds or wires that are not hooked up. Really the only ground i see is the one at the starter on the back of the block. The two motors did have different ignition coils though. The original motor had a female plug and the donor motor had a male plug. I swapped the intakes so i could stay with the original wiring and coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsherry Posted October 12, 2017 Author Share Posted October 12, 2017 Also, the donor car ran fine before he pulled the transmission out. Said he drove it around for a week before he tore into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elysian Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Are you running the same coil that originally came with the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsherry Posted October 12, 2017 Author Share Posted October 12, 2017 Not at first but i did swap the intake and wiring over that came with the car and it did not change. Still no spark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsherry Posted October 12, 2017 Author Share Posted October 12, 2017 Anyone have a diagram for the ground locations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 It's strange that after the swap the engine refuses to fire. The 96-99 EJ25 are virtually identical. There was a slight changeover from 97 to 98, but that wouldn't affect it. They run off the same ECU, except for the 99 EJ25 which had a slightly different ECU but still will run older engines. There is only one ground for the engine, right above the starter. If that one wasn't connected, the starter wouldn't even engage, so I doubt that the grounds would be at fault. There are three things the engine needs to start: air, fuel, and spark. Air: The IACV works together with the MAF sensor to provide the necessary air for combustion. If either of those isn't working correctly, it'll still start, just not run right. So we can rule out air Fuel: Make sure that your fuel connections are on correctly. There are three lines that connect to the fuel rail: inlet, return, and EVAP. If you mix up the inlet and return, it won't start. The EVAP is easy to put back to the right connection because its the smaller one of the three and has a standard clamp and not a screw clamp. Being that it's an engine swap, it could be very possible the inlet and return are swapped. The line from the fuel filter goes in the topmost fuel rail connection. SPARK: To test the coil, remove a spark plug wire (one of the front ones are the easiest) or plug in an extra one. Shove a plastic/rubber handled screwdriver into the tip and hold it near a piece of metal and have someone crank the engine. If it sparks, the coil is working. If not, test the coil. Take a multimeter and probe pins 1-2 and 2-3 on the connector. Pin 1 is closest to the front of the engine when the coil is mounted. You should get a reading between 0.65 and 0.80 ohms. If not, the coil is bad. If those readings check out, test the physical connections. Probe across pole 1 and 2 and then poles 3 and 4. You should get a reading between 10.88 KOhms and 14.72 KOhms. If not, the coil is bad. If you tested for fuel and you have spark, you have a timing issue. Take off the timing covers and check the timing. Set your crank pulley to the timing mark and see if the camshafts align with their respective crank marks with the back covers. If you've ensured the timing is set correctly, reassemble the covers and try again. If it won't fire still, it's a sensor issue. First swap the crank position sensor and retry, then swap the cam position sensor. If you swapped those sensors and it still won't start, there is a break in the connections between the sensors and the ECU or the coil and the ECU, which requires some more advanced troubleshooting that I can walk you through if it comes to that. These are very simple engines in comparison to many others out there. There are only a few factors that cause it to not start correctly and I've pretty much laid them out here for you. The above should be enough to keep you busy on the troubleshooting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsherry Posted October 13, 2017 Author Share Posted October 13, 2017 The problem was always no spark. I got it to spin enough times last night to throw a CEL code. P0335. Gonna order a new crank sensor this weekend. It was a bitch getting the old one our. IT broke then i pulled all the guts out and then had to use a screw driver and hammer to crush the metal sleeve and pull it out with plyers. Spun the motor with a ratchet and checked all the reluctor teeth. All looks good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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