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Coolant temp question


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EDIT: Left out info lol, I never monitored coolant temps until after my big turbo. Having this issue but the gauge on the dash never moves. When I looked, the car had the 1bar eared cap on the reservior and radiator. Thats why I replaced both caps to 1bar eared on reservior and 1.37bar on radiator.

 

Got my new radiator caps from subaru. Installed them and bled the system. Driving around town I'm at 189-205.

When I get on it (even revs with no boost) I can get the temp to go up by driving it hard. It doesnt shoot up, just creeps as long as I'm in it (highest was 223 before caps, highest now has been 217 under constant load.)

Coolant used is 50/50 Motul Inugel Expert.

Thermostat is new (PO), but unknown brand (probably cheap)

 

As soon as I am not in it, the temps come down very quickly to ~200. Reservoir stays at the same level, no bubbling when shut off.

 

I know my radiator is cheap and aftermarket (everything the PO used was cheap AF...

 

Is my radiator just not sufficient?

Thanks guys!

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What were the ambient temps when driving? There could still be an air pocket or the radiator just isn't sufficient. Have you tested that the fans operate correctly?

 

Sorry, ambient temps were high 80's. I dont think there's any air but I can grab my coolant tool tomorrow. Fans both operate.

It was 60's the other night, dodnt appear to go over 205. Wasnt paying much attention though to be honest.

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Only things I could think of are radiator and water pump. I am using a super cheap radiator also (rock auto 40 bucks! - but it is brand new) and down here in FL in 100 degrees my temps never move once it gets to operating temp.

 

I'm sure people would say you could get the radiator flow tested to see if it's up to snuff, but for sub 50 dollars and some coolant it might just be easier to replace it and see if that fixes it.

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Are you monitoring the temp with a scantool or AP?

 

My dash never moves from center. Radiator is fairly new, havent tried cleaning the fins yet. Water pump is new as well.

 

I know cars make more heat on throttle, so I'm not that concerned. Car doesnt overheat or boil over

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Normal coolant temp is approx 160 - 212 F. Your radiator fan should activate around 195 - 200 F if you are not running the A/C.

 

A lot of Subaru cooling system problems seem to be related to using an aftermarket thermostat. These thermostats either don't flow enough or they don't open fully in the right heat range. I would suggest changing that out with the Subaru OEM and seeing if the issue resolves.

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Normal coolant temp is approx 160 - 212 F. Your radiator fan should activate around 195 - 200 F if you are not running the A/C.

 

A lot of Subaru cooling system problems seem to be related to using an aftermarket thermostat. These thermostats either don't flow enough or they don't open fully in the right heat range. I would suggest changing that out with the Subaru OEM and seeing if the issue resolves.

 

I was thinking the same thing, so Sube Thermostat and a radiator. Wanted to go with an aluminum radiator anyway, this seems like a good excuse.. :lol: Any preferred brand?

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I was thinking the same thing, so Sube Thermostat and a radiator. Wanted to go with an aluminum radiator anyway, this seems like a good excuse.. :lol: Any preferred brand?
Maybe your current radiator is OK, for awhile. You could just do the thermostat and see if that takes care of it. Do the radiator later when the current one dies. IMHO the all-aluminum radiators might be overkill unless you are racing. Something like the TYC 2778 is only $70, pretty much a direct replacement for OEM. The all-aluminum Koyorad VH091662 costs $275 or so and I'm not sure it would make a real difference. As long as a radiator has enough capacity, a radiator is a radiator, functionally speaking.
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