Cfinn Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 I need new pads and my rotors are okay, but old so thinking of replacing. I just use it as my daily driver so I don't "need" anything special. Although drilled and slotted do look better. Any good bang for my buck pads/rotors I should go looking for? Not looking to go spend big money on super high performance parts since I don't drive with a need for them, but I don't want to buy garbage either. Seen eBay has slotted and drilled random brand stuff for under $200 but guessing those aren't worth buying even for my daily driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 You don't really need drilled and slotted. That's mostly for looks. You can benefit from fresh rotors, though. Centric Premium rotors are pretty inexpensive if you shop around. They are a good value. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew1707 Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Jc Whitney has free shipping and discount codes if you use your email. Got stop tech Z-23 pads and EBC plain rotors for well under 100$.(rear only) Rock Auto has better prices on the stop tech stuff but you'll lose it with shipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Sometimes if you google for codes for rockauto it usually ends up eating tax or shipping. I 2nd the Centric premium blanks. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rougeben83 Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 I've been running the cheapest centric blank rotors for years in a few cars, never had any problems with them. I'm talking about the ones that cost like $40-50 a piece for the fronts I even find they don't get as much brake shudder as the OEM rotors in a couple of cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cfinn Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 Thanks for the advice. Will try finding a good deal and Centric Rotors and Hawk pads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 Centric has a few different rotor offerings. The Premiums cost about 1/3 more than the basic ones. Premiums are supposed to be similar to the OEM rotors and machined to a higher standard. They have a black anti-rust coating on the top hat area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 brakeperformance.com has good kits including hardware. I don't work there or anything, just a happy customer. I think Max Capacity referred them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 I recently, will back in early May put NAPA cheap rotors on, and have been liking them ever since. Next time, I get the ones that are painted. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 I was thinking about getting slotted rotors this time.. so you telling me they are worthless to buy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 I'm not happy with the noise the slotted rotors make on the front of my Spec B, during braking. There is a hummm. Where the non-slotted NAPA rotors on the wagon make no noise. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 I was thinking about getting slotted rotors this time.. so you telling me they are worthless to buy? As long as your brakes can lock up your tires, the most cost effective braking upgrade you can make is better tires. Most of the slotted rotors you see are cosmetic upgrades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cfinn Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 As long as your brakes can lock up your tires, the most cost effective braking upgrade you can make is better tires. Most of the slotted rotors you see are cosmetic upgrades. I run quality tires myself and noticed a major change. Now it's time to out new pads and rotors. Bit of steering wheel shake when I brake. That being said my driver side rear wheel barring is bad and being replaced this weekend. Could that be causing my wheel wobble and not warped rotors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 I'd say not so much. Cheap pads won't clean the brake dust off of them under braking. I find Hawk ceramic pads work pretty well at self cleaning. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted August 26, 2017 Share Posted August 26, 2017 ...That being said my driver side rear wheel barring is bad and being replaced this weekend. Could that be causing my wheel wobble and not warped rotors?Bad wheel bearings usually cause a roaring noise, sometimes a grinding noise if they're in really bad shape. The noise gets louder driving through curves. New rotors and pads will probably take care of the shaking. Make sure that you clean and lube the caliper sliding pins. Use the right grease, such as Sil-Glyde, on the pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted August 26, 2017 Share Posted August 26, 2017 I've done several tests with pads and here's my cliff note review: Hawk pads: Great pads, low dust, pricey StopTech: Excellent pads, very dusty, good price Power Stop Evolution: Same as Hawk pads, low price. I have been running Power Stop for several years now on all my vehicles. It's the bang for the buck if you're on a budget. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 26, 2017 Share Posted August 26, 2017 normally I get ceramic pads but I understand Semi-metallic pads have better bite? How about Akebono pads? The OEM pads are ceramic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 26, 2017 Share Posted August 26, 2017 OP, I see your car is over 10 years old. You may want to think about replacing the calipers. I did this a few month's back on both my cars. Very glad I did. I used NAPA rebuilt calipers, just make sure you open the box and make sure all the parts are there before you leave the store. Also make sure the sealing surface for the banjo bolt washer is flat. Most auto parts stores can get a replacement in 2 hours in my area. I had to get three calipers before everything was right. NAPA even delivered the last one to my house. If I had bought these from an on-line store, I'd have spent lots of time waiting for parts. These cars are pretty easy to replace the calipers and bleed the brake system. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 26, 2017 Share Posted August 26, 2017 That's my concern as well I had a caliper piston not retract and it kept full force on the pad and no mistake of the smell of hot pads.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarK1D Posted August 27, 2017 Share Posted August 27, 2017 Saw on one of the forums that steering wheel shaking was actually due to the calipers rather than the disc/rotor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted August 27, 2017 Share Posted August 27, 2017 Saw on one of the forums that steering wheel shaking was actually due to the calipers rather than the disc/rotor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk It can be due to several things, glazed rotors, uneven pads, sticky calipers, LCA bushings...etc. It's one of those things that you have to inspect all parts associated with it. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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