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Which Legacy GTs are the most reliable?


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There's this gigantic thread that could take you days to go through :lol: :

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/official-lowered-outback-thread-180375.html

 

Unfortunately, that thread is suffering from the Photobucket cancer.

 

You can also use Google to do a qualified search of this site, for example:

 

site:legacygt.com lowered outback xt cost

 

IIRC, if you get the Outback, you don't get the same upgraded brakes and steering on the Legacy GT. Slightly different gearing, also.

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Ohmygod so much cancer. Thanks anyways though. I did find a thread where they said if you drive an outback vs a legacy at the same speed the outback will be higher in the RPM band. Upgraded brakes + steering also sound good, so since I'm in no rush I'll probably stick to the legacy GT unless convinced otherwise lolz.
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Check out the cars FS thread on this here forum. Lgt wagons and OB xt's abound in your price range. Many maintained by owners/enthusiasts informed by these boards as to the common failings and shortcomings of their specific model and year. Some even have documented build and troubleshooting threads to back them up. Listings here may be a better bet than a dealership dice roll on a new turbo. Just my .02 And if you decide to go the obxt lowered route, you can find suspension bits on the classified section here as well.
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Got it, thanks. I guess I shouldn't ask too many questions about the audio until I can hear it, but it seems like it's a similar situation to my G35 so if you want an aftermarket headunit you have to get the whole faceplate conversion and that's a costly thing.

 

If you want a good stereo, you really need to go with the jdm double din setup and an aftermarket head unit. The oem sub isn't anything to write home about either.

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WRX Wagons have a pretty similar drivetrain to the LGT. Same block, different turbo, slightly different transmissions, smaller chassis based on Impreza. Insurance bracket for WRXs is way different even though they have similar performance if that matters to you. Expect to pay a lot more for the WRX. The issues plaguing the LGT are the same as the WRX with some subtle differences. Replacing a stereo on a WRX is a lot easier.

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I would not call a LGT reliable at all. Enjoyable car but hopefully you have a good mechanical skills or access to a decent reasonable mechanic. I am lucky to have Subie expert who only charges $65/hr is pleasant and honest. Our 2005 LGT 5mt wagon required lots of attention 120k to 220k.
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Huh, is it possible to get a more thorough inspection that would help determine whether there's turbo -related issues?

 

I would recommend using a mechanic who specializes in Subaru's and is familiar with the issues surrounding their turbo charged cars. They should know what to inspect in order to improve the chances of detecting any potential problems.

 

If you suspect a car has had a turbo failure and you cannot accurately ascertain what type of failure it had then it's probably best to pass (or accept the risk). Even the best mechanics can't guarantee there won't be issues. Especially if the seller is determined to hide what happened.

 

IMO if you can find a car which has a complete maintenance / repair history is preferable to one which does not. Based on the history you can ascertain how well the vehicle was cared for. This is better achieved through a private party purchase. Many car dealers won't have this information.

 

I think in summary the best rule of thumb is if you have any doubt then walk away.

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Huh, is it possible to get a more thorough inspection that would help determine whether there's turbo -related issues?

 

Whatever car you look at, have compression and leakdown testing done.

 

If it is the original turbo, a mechanic can pull the down pipe and have it inspected for shaft play. If there is any shaft play, the turbo is done, and you should walk away.

 

If the turbo was recently replaced, and the shortblock wasn't replaced at the same time, I would definitely walk away.

 

If the turbo was replaced more than 20,000 miles ago, the block probably doesn't have clogged passages. You can do the compression and leakdown, and pull the downpipe to check the turbo for shaft play. If all of those check out you should be fine.

 Brought to you by Pfizer

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