steveorchuck Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 2010 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Premium. 132k miles. I want to start with saying I'll be driving from Denver to Boston in about 2.5 weeks from now. I also want to apologize because I know this topic has been brought up multiple times. I ran over a screw roughly six months ago and had it patched. Recently, I ran over a nail about an inch away from that original patch. I called around and each person I talked to said it would be impossible to do another patch in that proximity to the original patch and I would be better off getting new tires. I've already decided on getting four Michelin Defender 205 /60 R16 since I'm already running the same tire and love them. Since there is 132k miles on my car (purchased with 68k miles on it) and I don't believe the struts/springs were ever replaced, I went down the slippery slope of looking into them. I plan on driving this car until it dies, so it may not be a bad time to get them. I have a friend who had an 2011 STI, who says I should wait until I really need them, but I'm torn on what to do because of my drive. If I do get Struts, I've decided on the KYB Excel-G's 339222 FR 339223 FL 340026 Rear I fell even further down the rabbit hole looking into springs, and found I should go with the 2013 OEM springs to replace the spongey 2010 OEM springs, but I haven't searched for any type to buy online. I finally hit the bottom of the rabbit hole when I read that I should get an alignment a few weeks after any spring replacement. The last time I had an alignment was in 2014 and to be perfectly honest, I don't feel like my car needs an alignment but it may be a good idea if I plan on getting new tires/struts/springs. Or should I get new tires? What would anyone recommend me do? Should I just hold off on everything until I get back from Denver? That tire with the nail has a slow leak, and I've only needed to add air to the tire every week and a half or so. Thanks, Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DugsSin Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 Check the pressure in your spare it should be at 60 psi, locate jack, handle and lug wrench. If the lugs were put on by a tire store you may not get them off with that little lug wrench. Stay at stock height or your further down the rabbit hole The parts you mentioned are fine for a daily driver and better than what was OEM. My .02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 You have driven it this long the way it is, just slap on some new tires then get the suspension sorted out when you get back. Your list seems to be pretty well covered. I would also replace the strut mounts at least the front ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aperson Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 I'll look for my invoice for part numbers but I was much happier swapping for 2013+ springs and struts. They're a direct swap and stiffer than stock 2010. I also did the front and rear sways at the same time and they got rid of a bunch of roll. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveorchuck Posted August 12, 2017 Author Share Posted August 12, 2017 Check the pressure in your spare it should be at 60 psi, locate jack, handle and lug wrench. If the lugs were put on by a tire store you may not get them off with that little lug wrench. Stay at stock height or your further down the rabbit hole The parts you mentioned are fine for a daily driver and better than what was OEM. My .02 Thanks, My spare is all ready to go. I rotate my own tires so the lugs aren't bad to get off. I don't want to do any modifications so I appreciate the heads up about thr change in height due to the springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 If the nail is still in the tire at least do a temporary plug in the tire. You don't want drive that far with a nail and leak that is only going to get worse.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 FYI if you switch out your springs and shocks you will need an alignment no matter what. Think of it as part of the cost. One of the bolts that you have to remove on the rear is your camber adjustment (for example). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveorchuck Posted August 12, 2017 Author Share Posted August 12, 2017 You have driven it this long the way it is, just slap on some new tires then get the suspension sorted out when you get back. Your list seems to be pretty well covered. I would also replace the strut mounts at least the front ones. I was thinking just get the tires now and do the suspension later, but had the "just do it all" in the back of my mind. FYI if you switch out your springs and shocks you will need an alignment no matter what. Think of it as part of the cost. One of the bolts that you have to remove on the rear is your camber adjustment (for example). I read that in another post, but it said wait a few weeks for the springs to settle. I figured I would get the alignment once I get to the Boston area. I'll look for my invoice for part numbers but I was much happier swapping for 2013+ springs and struts. They're a direct swap and stiffer than stock 2010. I also did the front and rear sways at the same time and they got rid of a bunch of roll. This would rule. If the nail is still in the tire at least do a temporary plug in the tire. You don't want drive that far with a nail and leak that is only going to get worse.. The nail is too close to the existing patch. It would be a patch on top of a patch which two of the places said they wouldn't do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 You can get a DIY patch kit from Walmart (or that type of place) that has a tool to rough up the whole and then a super sticky rubber noodle thing you can insert. It's not a great solution, but if you only needed your tire to last a little bit longer it might do you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 He means get yourself a rope plug and put in there, I wouldn't advocate against that as opposed to leaving the nail in place and driving around. I have patched a few of my own tires for emergency purposes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 Also when you do your struts/springs you can probably get away with not getting it aligned right away if you are sure to replace the camber bolts exactly how you take them out of the front strut mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capttris Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 Good choice on the tires, and also with using 2013 struts/springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 Don't drive around with nail in your tire. I did this once (the tire wasn't losing any air at all) and eventually after a few weeks the nail pushed all the way through while I was going 60mph on the highway....instant deflation. Luckily I felt it as it was happening and it didn't startle me and there was no loss of control. But it happened in the pooring rain and putting the spare on in the rain sucked big time. Get new tires, they will be fine on your current alignment for the road trip. Take your trip and do the KYB's with 13-14 springs and new front tophats when you get back. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveorchuck Posted August 15, 2017 Author Share Posted August 15, 2017 New Defenders are being put on tomorrow. I'll do the KYB's in September. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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