JDM Engine in USDM Car?

[WillPower04]

So I bought a 2006 Subaru Legacy GT off of craigslist about a week ago and everything was great. The previous owner fixed an oil leak for us and even put in a new clutch. That's where the good stops. A couple days ago I got in the car and the check engine light was on. I called the previous owner and he suggested disconnecting the battery which I did and the check engine light went away. The next day I was driving and the light came on again but this time the car felt like it was struggling. I took it to a mechanic shop close to my house that had a free check engine light diagnostic and they told me that they found some error codes and it probably wasn't a big deal but they were still checking into it when I stopped to check in mid day. Later when I returned I got the bad new. Apparently there was no compression in cylinder 2 and only half compression in cylinder 1. (Now I'm livid because I paid a shop about $125 to do a pre-purchase inspection on the car). So they quoted me some $2000 to re-machine the cylinder head and hopefully fix what was wrong with it. Then I started to do my own research and asked some of my friends who drive Subarus. I found a place near me that resells JDM engines (Mine is an ej255 btw) and they have one in stock with about 50,000 miles on it and they're asking $1250. Now I have heard from many people that Japan requires an engine to be changed after 50,000 miles so that's why a JDM engine is a tempting option. I do have multiple questions about the whole thing though. 1: Is it just plug and play with the new engine or do the two different engines vary in different ways? 2: If you were in this situation would you just get the current engine (with 135,000 miles on it) fixed or is this the way to go. 3: Is it worth it to shell out the $5,000 it would cost to purchase a rebuilt engine? If anyone has ever put a JDM engine into their car please share! Thanks

[Max Capacity]

There are a couple of threads that deal with a JDM swap.

 

I've never been a big fan of that for a DD.

 

Most of us buy a new ej257 short block, and gasket set for your year car, have the heads rebuilt, replace oil system parts if you had metal in the oil pan.

 

I have over 90,000 trouble free miles on my ej257. read my click here link in my sig to learn.

 

You can get a ej257 from Vendors on here, most buy from Heuberger Subaru, but I think now most dealers have a on line system with the same prices. Well cost you around $2200 with shipping

 

 

read the sticky's at the top of this forum and the 4th Gen forum as well as the next one down.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/oem-online-subaru-parts-vendors-list-42243.html see post #167, ask Benny for help.

 

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

[cseagle08]

I've done it in the cheapest way possible. JDM EJ20X engine, using the EJ255's ECU, exhaust manifold, turbo and intercooler.

 

The ECU has to be tuned to remove the TGV codes. That's all it needs to not have any check engine lights and run.

 

And it runs pretty good; above 3,000 rpm. Because the exhaust AVCS on the JDM motor which isn't connected to anything so far, it's a dog down low, but once boost builds it screams. I'm currently working on a solution for that.

 

But really it works pretty well. The swap is completely straightforward.

 

If you seriously love this car, buy the EJ257 like suggested. Go ahead and spend the money. If it's your 5th car, and just a project car, and you're gonna do the work yourself - like mine then give the JDM a chance.

 

Oh and by the by, it will never pass an emissions test again with the JDM motor. Supposedly. I'm sure different states are different.

[maxspeed3]

I've done it in the cheapest way possible. JDM EJ20X engine, using the EJ255's ECU, exhaust manifold, turbo and intercooler.

 

The ECU has to be tuned to remove the TGV codes. That's all it needs to not have any check engine lights and run.

 

And it runs pretty good; above 3,000 rpm. Because the exhaust AVCS on the JDM motor which isn't connected to anything so far, it's a dog down low, but once boost builds it screams. I'm currently working on a solution for that.

 

But really it works pretty well. The swap is completely straightforward.

 

If you seriously love this car, buy the EJ257 like suggested. Go ahead and spend the money. If it's your 5th car, and just a project car, and you're gonna do the work yourself - like mine then give the JDM a chance.

 

Oh and by the by, it will never pass an emissions test again with the JDM motor. Supposedly. I'm sure different states are different.

 

Sent you a PM with a few questions regarding your swap!

[StkmltS]

I'm here for the show.

 

Sent from inner space.

[rhd gvr4]

Im think i should run that ej257

[TimothyOnline]

Two weeks ago I finished replacing my USDM EJ253 w/ AVLS (during a hard shift from 2nd to 3rd I snapped my 101k-mile timing belt). I used its JDM counterpart, acquired from JDM Engine Depot Inc. of Belleville, NJ, U.S.A.

 

I ended up removing the JDM intake manifold and all of its electronics, carrying over only the JDM ignition module and, later on, fuel injectors. The JDM engine mounts (coincidentally used on the WRX) bolt right up. New USDM oil pump, timing belt kit w/ water pump, oil pump, drive belts all bolt right up. The machine shop didn't notice any difference between my JDM heads and the USDM heads they typically see.

 

 

Off-the-bat I did have various CEL codes, the most consistent of which were P0171 and P0301 to 4. After swapping USDM injectors & plugs for JDM counterparts and discussions w/ LGT members & family, the codes were traced down to a hardened, leaky PCV hose. A couple hose clamps from Walmart remedied the issue.

[GEE-OTTO]

3: Is it worth it to shell out the $5,000 it would cost to purchase a rebuilt engine? If anyone has ever put a JDM engine into their car please share! Thanks

 

How much did you pay for the car to start? That price + $5k, is that going to get you a car you will want to drive (and continue to need minor repairs due to age) for the foreseeable future?

 

I wouldn't do the JDM either, dangle that carrot but youll pay a shop just as much to swap accessories, tune it and iron out drivability issues.

 

FWIW most pre-purchase inspections don't include compression and/or leak down tests as they take time and typically the potential buyer wont have access to the car for hours prior to purchase. That shop did a cursory check out of the car and given the fixes the P/O did, found nothing.

[TimothyOnline]

That price + $5k, is that going to get you a car you will want to drive (and continue to need minor repairs due to age) for the foreseeable future?

 

Yes.

 

Despite having less power than certain contemporary neurotic political groups, I love how it handles. Also, by virtue of being a gearhead I am a bonafide idiot; I embrace this. No sane person would spend this kind of money nor perform this much labor on an easily-destroyed hunk of metal.

 

I wouldn't do the JDM either, dangle that carrot but you'll pay a shop just as much to swap accessories, tune it and iron out drivability issues.

 

*On the EJ253 w/ AVLS*, the major parts difference is the intake manifold...specifically, hoses and fuel lines. Everything else bolts right up.

 

FWIW most pre-purchase inspections don't include compression and/or leak down tests as they take time and typically the potential buyer wont have access to the car for hours prior to purchase. That shop did a cursory check out of the car and given the fixes the P/O did, found nothing.

 

The engine importer I used, JDM Engine Depot, Inc., does this upon request.

 

Example:

 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[Somac]

A JDM EJ20X/Y is a great motor, even better than an EJ255 if you don't mind the missing torque. However, don't believe lots of the things importers will tell you.

 

1) The mileage is almost never accurate. When they say "30k miles" or "50k miles," they almost assuredly made that up to look good. How are you going to verify it when they say they don't have the odometer anymore? There is nothing saying they have to replace engines at a certain mileage and that's why there are so many. They just have a different culture over there surrounding used cars. Cars they can't sell in Japan, get sent to junkyards and/or chopped up and sent to the US.

 

2) Compression/health tests aren't always done. Find an importer that's willing to do a compression test and take a video of it. J-Spec Motors/JDM Racing Motors will do this for you. Any decent importer will do this for you. These are typically *not* the bargain basement importers with the cheapest motors. But you don't want the cheapest motor because it comes with "cheapest motor problems."

 

3) It is not just a simple plug and play. There are multiple ways to do it, depending on how much of the superior JDM hardware you want to run. Modification will be necessary no matter what you do.

 

All that being said, after riding in an EJ20X car with the proper original twin scroll, they rip through the rev range! Should my EJ255's pistons pack their bags and head south, an EJ20Y is the route I'm going.