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Had to abandon car... No clutch :-( HELP... please...


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I have been on holiday for a week and found it was getting quite tricky to get into 1st and second gear by the time I got home. The clutch which was quite low anyway was needing to be pushed into the floor. - JDM 2.0 GT 2004 RHD.


I managed yesterday to increase the length of the push rod with the adjuster and make the clutch biting point significantly higher and the gears worked absolutely fine.- If anything I was contemplating trying to lower the biting point a little.


After about a 17 mile journey I got about 10 miles back and my clutch pedal just stuck at the bottom of it's travel. I can pull it back up but there is no feel to the pedal it just springs to fully down or fully up.


I have left the car on somebody's land who offered to help and I got a lift home.


Is it possible I have over adjusted the clutch? - any ideas? does it need to go to a garage?


A friend recons he can get the car home without the clutch working by starting in gear... but if it needs to go to a garage I can get the 'Auto Recovery service' to take it there - but not if it is at my house as I don't have 'at home' cover :whistling:


Cheers guys - any advice appreciated

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We don't get that exact configuration here. Ours are 2.5 litre turbo LHD, so bear that in mind.


If yours has a hydraulic clutch, as I think it does, you should know that a hydraulic clutch is self-adjusting. It should automatically compensate as the clutch lining wears.


The symptoms you describe more closely resemble a problem with the clutch master or slave cylinder or leakage of the hydraulic fluid. You can try adding fluid and bleeding the clutch line, but repairs to the master or slave cylinder may be necessary.

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We managed to get the car home and I have 'un-adjusted' the push rod by a small amount - the pedal seems to be working again...


Thanks for the advice given and the interest...


The Exedy guy says it is a common misconception that the hydraulic clutch is self adjusting...

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The Excedy guy says it is a common misconception that the hydraulic clutch is self adjusting...

Total misunderstanding!


I did not say it is not possible to adjust the clutch. Clearly there is an adjustment and it is there to regulate the stroke length which may be necessary if you change to a new clutch/pressure plate from a different manufacturer.


What I am saying is that as the clutch lining wears on your existing clutch, you do not have to adjust the hydraulic clutch to compensate. I'm sure there are exceptions but our cars are not one of them.


If your clutch pedal is low and if the pedal would not return to default position, consider topping up your clutch fluid and bleeding it out at least.


Do you adjust the disc brakes on your car as the lining wears? The answer is no. Why, because they are self-adjusting. You might have to add more brake fluid, though. And I am old enough to remember drum brakes that did require adjustment.

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Yes! :eek:


I've had the same situation happen. Driving for a couple of weeks hearing some squealing when not engaging the clutch, knowing I needed to change the TOB, but I thought it would last another week while I order the parts. The next day driving up to a stop sign, press the clutch in and the TOB shredded to pieces. Causing my clutch fork to get stuck in the clutch assembly.


Either way, you're going to have to pull the trans off and inspect the parts and the snot of the trans. When the TOB blows up, it ends up damaging the snot coming out of the trans, which will require a TSK3 kit to fix.

My wife's balls are delicious.
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Found fault....


I went to bleed the clutch with the help of my son. It seemed the push rod was almost falling out of the cylinder...




I removed the clutch fork boot and had a look inside...




DOH! :eek:


I found a web page where an outback owner had the same trouble... http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/19562-clutch-fork-failure.html

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