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Wheel slanted inward


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My driver side rear wheel is extremely slanted inward (top slanted inward and bottom slanted outward), what is the most likely cause of this? It's eating away at my tire. Pics in the morning.

 

 

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Get an alignment and maybe new tires.

 

Is your wheel bearing in good shape? It's hard to diagnose an issue without any other symptoms.

 

 

 

I just got new tires and that's when I noticed the slant. I haven't had a chance to jack it up and check the bearing, but I've heard it making noise while driving, and if I turn really sharp right there's a grinding noise but I can't guarantee from where. The tire shop briefly looked and told me it's most likely the strut, but with the noises I'm hearing I'm thinking bearing could be bad too. Anyways, when I hit bumps the rear end sways and squeaks like it's coming apart. And if I go over 40 mph it's dangerously swaying all over the road.

 

 

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Are you able to tell if all suspension components are in proper order? Let's focus on the alignment first, then address the other issues.

 

If you hear grinding, are you able to identify if something is rubbing based on any wear marks? Jack the car up and wiggle that wheel. If you push on the top and bottom and it moves freely, see if it is moving at the bearing/hub or the strut bolts.

 

Did you properly torque the wheel bearing when you replaced the knuckle?

 

Last thing on my mind is to jump or induce a bounce of the rear. It should spring back up and quickly subside motion. If your car bounces all over, your struts are shot. The spring supports the car ride height though - the strut dampens the vibration.

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Are you able to tell if all suspension components are in proper order? Let's focus on the alignment first, then address the other issues.

 

If you hear grinding, are you able to identify if something is rubbing based on any wear marks? Jack the car up and wiggle that wheel. If you push on the top and bottom and it moves freely, see if it is moving at the bearing/hub or the strut bolts.

 

Did you properly torque the wheel bearing when you replaced the knuckle?

 

Last thing on my mind is to jump or induce a bounce of the rear. It should spring back up and quickly subside motion. If your car bounces all over, your struts are shot. The spring supports the car ride height though - the strut dampens the vibration.

 

 

 

To be honest, I can't due to the hill I live on

 

Once I find somewhere flat to work on the car I'll be able to take the wheel off and see if I see anything

 

I swapped complete knuckles from a donor car and I didn't use a torque wrench I just went by feel.

 

I keep forgetting to do this while I'm in town, and the hill I live on wouldn't induce a fair test, so I'll have to check on flat ground when I go to town.

 

I suppose the reason(s) I'm so concerned is I hit something in the snow last winter causing a blowout in that tire. Also, right before that I got stuck in the snow in my driveway and was pulled out sideways by my neighbors winch on his jeep. It was a very bad winter and I'm afraid things may be bent if not strut/bearing. I'm tempted to just sell the car as is and buy one off Craigslist with 100,000 less miles for 1,600. Same color same everything except it has sun roof and mine doesn't. Oh and mine has been swapped with ej22.

 

 

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I used a impact gun I believe. And as much as I want to go get an alignment I have terrible experiences with every tire shop in town except for one, and the owner just so happens to be in the hospital right now, so I guess that's why I turned here for advice. Is there a way to adjust camber myself? Also, just poking my head underneath it appears the stabilizer is crooked and the top bushing may be bad judging by the gap, could this be the culprit possibly

 

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Also, after looking closer, the arm closest to the stabilizer appears like it's been pulled on before as it's not quite as straight as the other side. Or possibly that's where I hit something resulting in the blow out.

 

 

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The stabilizer won't cause camber wear. The stabilizer keeps the lower control arms at a stable angle during cornering to increase traction and stability. You should be looking at the top where it mounts to the strut. On mine, the top bolt on the wheel hub to the strut is a camber bolt. When I took mine for an alignment, they didn't adjust the camber correctly. I caught it and adjusted it myself because I knew where the reference mark I made was before I removed my hub to refurb my front axles.
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