web94 Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Today I noticed a strong fuel smell when jacking up the rear of car. Looked at the tank and it appears the leak was originating from the top of the tank. Could this be the fuel pump leaking? Also, had my rear brake lines replaced in April by a local shop I've started going to and I'm still trying to feel them out as a reliable shop. This is the first time I've inspected the new lines, and to me they look almost haphazardly routed/bent. Is it just me? I know it won't affect the functionality, but it just doesn't look like it was done by an experienced hand, to me. I ask because this shop recently quoted me $4k to reseal the whole engine because there's oil dripping from the timing cover. It made me question their judgment to jump to such an extreme, instead of trying to find the source of the leak (camshaft seal?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Check the fuel pump housing. After time, they can crack and start to leak when the tank is near full. It happens on a 12 year old car. Forming brake lines is a talent that not everyone has. It is more artwork than anything. Do they look bad on your car, maybe? But they will work just fine. Just make sure they are not hanging down and can snag something on the highway or that they are not rubbing against something that will cause them to wear through and you should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 To inspect the fuel pump, you can remove the bottom part of the rear seat. On the passenger side, there should be an oval inspection port with a cover. Behind the cover, you'll see the white plastic fuel pump assembly. Cracks can form along the flange where the fuel pump assembly mates with the tank. You should have low fuel in the tank when removing/replacing the fuel pump, this will make your life easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 There must be a DIY for the fuel pump in that forum, you'll see pictures there. I only see one picture in your post here at work, are those the brakes lines your talking about around the fuel tank ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
web94 Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 Check the fuel pump housing. After time, they can crack and start to leak when the tank is near full. It happens on a 12 year old car. Forming brake lines is a talent that not everyone has. It is more artwork than anything. Do they look bad on your car, maybe? But they will work just fine. Just make sure they are not hanging down and can snag something on the highway or that they are not rubbing against something that will cause them to wear through and you should be fine. Thanks for the advice. Just wanted to make sure my suspicions were correct before taking stuff apart. That's what I figured about brake line forming. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't indicative of sloppy work in general. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
web94 Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 To inspect the fuel pump, you can remove the bottom part of the rear seat. On the passenger side, there should be an oval inspection port with a cover. Behind the cover, you'll see the white plastic fuel pump assembly. Cracks can form along the flange where the fuel pump assembly mates with the tank. You should have low fuel in the tank when removing/replacing the fuel pump, this will make your life easier. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
web94 Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 There must be a DIY for the fuel pump in that forum, you'll see pictures there. I only see one picture in your post here at work, are those the brakes lines your talking about around the fuel tank ? I found a few walkthroughs for the fuel pump replacement. Vacation pix were really helpful too. I think it's something I could try on my own. Yeah the brake lines are the goldish lines on the left of the pic. Mechanic said he used nickel tubing I've browsed your build page before and know all the work youve done with the engines, what do you think about the shop wanting to go full bore and replace every seal on the engine? The $4k estimate is half what I paid for the car so itd be tough to swallow. The exact estimate said "CYLINDER HEAD RIGHT SIDE LEAKING/ VALVE SEALS LEFT SIDE LEAKING/ BREATHER COVER LEAKING OIL/ POSSIBLE OIL PRESSURE SWITCH LEAK WILL INVESTIGATE KK* TECH NOTE: EVAPORATIVE EMISSION HOSE OFTEN TIMES GET HARD AND BRITTLE ON TURBO ENGINES. SEVERAL OF THESE HOSES WILL NEED REPLACED DURING ASSEMBLY PROCESS KK* TECH NOTE: KK* R&R ENGINE CLEAN AND RE-GASKET" Does that seem reasonable? Not sure if its enough info to go off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robburns201 Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 If you pull the seat and it's dry then check the fuel tank nipples....I had one rust off and now I can't fill over a half tank with out it spilling out.... Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 ...Does that seem reasonable? Not sure if its enough info to go off...It's a lot of labor for not much return. Oil leaks are not usually catastrophic, just top up the oil more often. Cam seals and crank seals, you may as well do them when you do the timing belt service. Valve cover, spark plug tube seals, turbo drain hoses, cam seals, crank seals, oil cooler gasket can all be done without R&R the engine. If you had oil leaks from bad head gaskets, that would require more immediate attention and doing the R&R. $4K would almost get you a complete engine rebuild with a new shortblock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
web94 Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 It's a lot of labor for not much return. Oil leaks are not usually catastrophic, just top up the oil more often. Cam seals and crank seals, you may as well do them when you do the timing belt service. Valve cover, spark plug tube seals, turbo drain hoses, cam seals, crank seals, oil cooler gasket can all be done without R&R the engine. If you had oil leaks from bad head gaskets, that would require more immediate attention and doing the R&R. $4K would almost get you a complete engine rebuild with a new shortblock. Fortunately my oil consumption is minimal. Check it every fill up and havent needed to add any since I changed the oil 2100 miles ago. I'll do another Blackstone UOA to keep an eye on the head gaskets. Last one came back clean. The dealer I bought the car from told me they replaced the head gaskets before I bought it, but I'm not sure I could tell if they actually did. Thats what I was thinking when he quoted me four grand. I like the car and want to run it as long as I can keep it going, but I think that money would be put to better use elsewhere on that rust bucket, for the time being. Thanks for the advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 With low oil consumption, I would not spend that kind of money. Oil is cheap at that point. MilesA has it right. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grovlet Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 Another one for Fuel Smells and slight leaks is the Fuel Filler Neck - it gets corroded and cracks - so you'll see it leak (and smell more) when you fill up... Got so bad on my 99 LGT that it actually formed a puddle after fillup right in the gas lane.... Not 100% sure it's an issue on 4th Gen LGTs - but worth a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.