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Up pipe installation kit?


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Is there a company that offers an up pipe installation kit with all the hardware and gaskets? Just bought a catless unit and can source everything from my susbaru dealer but if I can get a package from somewhere and eliminate any hassle, all the better.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

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Gaskets and some tools are all I remember needing to do this job.

 

I'd suggest either the OEM or the Grimmspeed MLS gaskets. You can cross-reference with OEM gasket part numbers. Shown in picture below, clockwise from top left:

 

- block to header 14038AA000

- block to header 14038AA000

- turbo to downpipe 44022AA180

- header pipe to uppipe 44022AA170

- uppipe to turbo 44022AA150

 

 

Depending on how you do the job you may not need all these gaskets. Just make sure to use a fresh gasket for the connections that you take apart.

 

I'd suggest a low-profile flex head ratchet, u-joint and extensions. You will also need good penetrating oil to remove the rusty fasteners, for instance, Kano Kroil. A special tool to remove the front O2 sensor is very useful. Plus a 2.2K ohm resistor if you want to do the "resistor trick" for the temperature sensor you will no longer have.

 

Hope that info is helpful even though it is not a kit like you wanted.

ex-gask-2.thumb.jpg.f42f7069f9f01b921e49fe4a45d0dc41.jpg

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You should not need the top two gaskets in that picture, you will not be removing the exhaust manifold.

 

I highly recommend you get bolts to replace the studs. Bolts make it much easier to line up the turbo inlet, new oil return hose and set the turbo on the up pipe. I used the same bolts that bolt the up pipe support bracket to the engine block, the dealer will have them.

You can see pictures in my click here link in my sig.

 

Be careful not to rip the turbo inlet hose, yours is 12+ y/o.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I just did mine again last week. I didn't remove the turbo, but I did remove the entire exhaust manifold. I already had the grimmspeed gaskets installed from a few years ago, I reused everything I removed.

 

Essentially, drop the entire exhaust manifold assembly, remove the downpipe, remove up pipe and reverse install.

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Essentially, drop the entire exhaust manifold assembly, remove the downpipe, remove up pipe and reverse install.

That's the way I did mine, too. It is easier to just drop the entire exhaust manifold as an assembly. The heat shields are the worst part.

 

I did not remove the turbo. I did jack the engine slightly on the passenger side because it was much easier to wrangle the uppipe out and back in that way.

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When I had the crack fixed in my up pipe, I just removed the DP, unbolted the up pipe from the turbo and manifold and had it welded.

 

 

I did not remove the manifold or turbo. I know I posted on here some where about it. It was right about a year ago.

 

Sorry I got carried away with bolting the turbo to the up pipe, I have this pre-programed thought process.

 

But the new oil return hose might be a good idea along with removing the banjo filter.

 

 

OP, leave the turbo loose on the up pipe until you have the stock tmic in place and tighten, if you still have the stock tmic. Oh yea, use anti-seize compound on all the threads.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Anti-seize is a must and I fully planned to use it. Was also planning to pull banjo filters in the process during the job. Had the driver side one pulled at the dealer when it went in for the timing belt. Yes I have stock everything, intercooler gaskets will be replaced as well and I'll try to get a good look at the return line before taking the plunge to plan ahead if I'll need it...car needs an oil change soon anyway. Was just hoping for a kit instead of buying each individual piece.

 

Max capacity: I'm confused where you changed from studs to bolts, didn't notice it in your thread that I admittedly had to skim through while at work...

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Don't forget to have Permatex Copper Gasket Spray too. You can clean all of the mating surfaces with a die grinder and 3M wheel and then spray 3 light coats on each side of each gasket-used or new-and they'll seal fine. Make sure all of your studs in the heads are completely screwed into the heads and use copper anti-seize if possible-Nickel if it's all you have, but don't use aluminum anti-seize.
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Attached a pic. Did you use the bolts that are in the top left of the pic instead of the studs? Truth be told, I had trouble today finding part numbers for the up pipe studs while building my parts list.

 

I think that even though I don't need to take off the intercooler I am going to do so anyway and replace the "blue tee" in the process along with checking over the rest of the PCV system.

IMG_1866.thumb.JPG.e93027bfb15dae2d6b64b458c9d2faef.JPG

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