Polaris Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 Hey everyone, made a thread about this maybe a few months ago, everything was fine and it started up again. So basically I have an automatic LGT, and when I come to a stop for example a red light or stop light, or if I've been stopped and the light turns green and I just let off the gas to roll into the intersection for a left turn, sometimes (and quite randomly, hard to reproduce so I haven't been able to get a shop to actually see what I mean) the car would shudder or shake, some of the dash lights would come on, the headlights would flicker, and the car would threaten to stall out. If I hit the gas, or hit the brakes, the RPMs catch and bounce back to normal idle RPM, but if I don't do anything it'll eventually stall out. I've changed the battery, checked ATF levels (though I plan on changing the ATF sooner rather than later just in case), and to the best of my ability checked hoses for cracks that might suggest a vacuum leak. Also cleaned the TB maybe 5000km ago, and I cleaned the MAF recently as well. Unfortunately I'm quite useless when it comes to cars, and I haven't attempted to check out the fuel filter, or find a way to check the torque converter, etc. No check engine lights at all, and scanning with my OBD2 tool shows no codes. Anyone have any ideas on how to proceed? I want to take it into a Subaru-specialized shop that a bunch of my friends and local forum members recommend, but I don't know how to tell them or show them the issue since it's so random, and I can go many days without it happening, or it happens multiple times a day! Thank you so much everyone! Edit: if it is the torque converter, how does one "check" if it's good? Also I tried to find the DACCO SU19 stock T.C and everywhere seems to be out of stock, I just put in a notification on RockAuto but even eBay, etc. don't have it. Closest I found was the IPT aftermarket high stall one for a cool $638 This is just a sort of list I've been keeping but it seems very daunting to a noob like me! ATF change Vacuum leak Idle air control valve Torque converter Fuel filter O2 sensor Spark plugs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 When mine did that, it was a vacuum hose leak. I actually had two, one was behind the alternator under the intake, and the other was related to the blue tee under the intercooler/intake on the back of the engine. After 12 years the rubber gets hard and brittle and has trouble holding a seal. Recommend starting down the path of replacing a number of the vacuum lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polaris Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 I'm truly hoping it's just a vacuum leak, everything else seems pretty pricy! Once again since I'm basically useless when it comes to cars, is there a site or list of hoses that I could buy, take to a shop and have them change the hoses? Or should I just take it in, let them inspect it for leaks, and have them tell me what hoses to buy/order them for me (I'm sure there will be a mark up but I guess better than me trying to find the right hose?) Thanks Infosecdad!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted June 30, 2017 I Donated Too Share Posted June 30, 2017 make a homemade boost leak cap/tester... I made one, it has been VERY handy and I have even used a cheap 12v tire pump to get pressure in it so I don't have to wake up the big boy compressor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 Have you cleaned the MAF sensor ? The boost leak test was my first idea...but someone all ready beat me to it.... I clean my MAf once a air when I clean K&N air filter. Another idea, what do your engine ground cables look like, have they been replaced ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polaris Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 Thank you for the suggestions everyone! I cleaned the MAF a few months ago but I guess it doesn't hurt to do it again. The boost leak, engine ground cables, vacuum leak and maybe spark plugs I'll probably let the shop take a look at it I guess, don't trust my own incompetence haha! But at least now I have a list of things I can get them to look at specifically for me! Also sucks there aren't any engine codes at all! Thanks all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cseagle08 Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 I'd highly doubt torque converter with the symptoms you describe. Could be the fuel injectors, or fuel pressure related. There isn't an external filter on these cars, the filter is in the tank. Just FYI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pazuzu Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 My bet is the intake o ring seals. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polaris Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 So today it threw P0302 and P0304, misfires in 2 and 4. Definitely bringing the car in asap to get it checked out, hoping it's just sparks or something. I cleared the code and they haven't returned though. Hoping this code is related to the stalling, would suck to have two problems.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 My bet is the intake o ring seals. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk That's normally a cold weather thing, but worth looking into. The O-rings are about $25.00 You'll need to lift the intake a bit to replace them. I did mine without removing the intake just un-bolt a few items as needed. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmcgliss Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 I had shuddering and stalling symptoms this year but codes did appear. The first was an OCV Oil Control Valve over-advance caused by a piece of silicone sealer that migrated from somewhere. And recently a Camshaft Position Sensor. Each fault had its own specific code, but months earlier all I saw were random misfire codes. I'd check for vacuum leak and the PCV hoses under the IC. JC, Chicagoland bassist & opentracker 2005 LGT 5MT Ltd wagon 2005 LGT 5MT Ltd sedan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 Bad front 02 sensor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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