RustyRuu Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 Its my turn, so I wouldn't start for a week or two without first tapping the starter with a hammer, then yesterday before work i hear nothing not even an attempt to click the starter, i push it down the street and bump start it. It runs but i can't start it, by turning the key and using the starter. bench tested that starter today everything is good. i put an old 96 2.2 starter in there (it ran when i pulled it) and it did the same thing not even that little click so i made and electrical bridge with a screw driver from the positive starter post to the signal wire from the ignition cylinder and i got a starting car with a working starter, but when you turn the key you get nothing. I dont have a helper at this moment to help me test that signal wire, i have 12v at the battery 12v at the starter. edit. i don't know if i got my probing tool in there enough, i was trying to get it in there as far as i could before you begin to mangle things but i got .01-.02v from that wire, the key being turned all the way as if to start it. what do you guys think what am i looking at? any other tests to do? like the clutch switch (i dont know what its called but tells the car you have the clutch in to start it) should i push it off a cliff yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jras312 Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 Have you checked the starter relay? The clutch switch triggers the relay so when you turn the key it sends power through the relay to the starter solenoid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted June 11, 2017 Author Share Posted June 11, 2017 thanks for that wiring diagram but do you care to elaborate on what it means to check it? I have a meter and i can do a few basic checks but have no experience using it. would the starter relay also be a 12v when the clutch is down or key turned and which terminals do you check? or is it suppose to be a resistance / continuity check? is there a FSM procedure on how to check it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 So when I switch out my starters the other day I had the battery disconnected long enough to reset the ecu. I've had a p0420 for a while I have the sensors now and just need to put them on. Anyway, that code take a couple thousand to be thrown after a reset and I had one come up within 60 miles. Got it checked and it's p1518 starter switch circuit low. I had no idea that was a code and finding out the problem was a lot easy than chasing wires around, and testing sensor/ switches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share Posted June 19, 2017 so how bad of an idea is this. temporary for sure but i dont have to get out of my car to start it. so i had some wire laying around and i went ahead and bought a toggle switch and installed it by my key and runs through the firewall to the starter. I honestly want to know how bad of an idea this is? i have been searching for instructions on how to test and thresholds on what things should be at so i did this till i figure it out. the switch is rated at 6A 120V AC/ 3A 240V AC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted June 27, 2017 Author Share Posted June 27, 2017 what are these relay's i can't find info on them just under the interior fuse box. there is like 6 spots total. most of them out of the picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 anyone know where to find one of these for our cars we only have 4 pins on our harnesses for the ignition switch. https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/uploads/Subaruwiz/2012-02-12_015050_ignition_switch.jpg BTW those relays did nothing by switching them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted October 29, 2017 Author Share Posted October 29, 2017 so this is still going on but I've done a few things and have eliminated a couple options. and i'm still ******* stumpped so i'm gonna revive this thread because i don't want to have to deal with this in the colder months. I got the CEL to go away the P1518 but still i got nothing... i installed a new ignition switch i think its called at the bottom of the ignition key tumbler thing. and the cel went away it used to be after a ecu reset when you turned the key to the start postion it would give you a p1518 CEL and now i don't even get that, but the car still wont start. this is getting frustrating. how do you all clean connector/ harnesses, the little clip/connector that gives the 12v signal to the starter when the key is turned to start is mucky and gross how would i clean the inside solenoid to get a better connection... anything will help at this point i don't care. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 I'm gonna start with the easy one first. What shape in your battery have you tested? does it put out almost 12v? Have you disconnect the negative cable? Next you can test the neutral safety switch ( assuming your car is manual) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted November 1, 2017 Author Share Posted November 1, 2017 cel came back p1518 agian just took 20 times of starting the car to battery puts out 12.something volts. starter has 12.something volts and the wire that goes to the solenoid last time i checked was .01v-.02. haven't checked my Nuetral switch but its the 3rd one in 30k miles. i reset the car (Disconnect the negative cable) during installing the different parts like the starter relay and ignition switch, i have tested my clutch switch and it has resistance but i dont know the threshold its suppose to be between... btw i used the highest quality duralast starter relay(just to see if it would get me anywhere) but the one that was in there was a good ol' oem Nissan relay, riddle me that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rougeben83 Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 bypass your clutch switch, you just need to connect the 2 wires from your pedal. If your starter relay (possible) and ignition switch (less possible) are bad, but you have replaced/tested them, the clutch safety switch is the only thing left. BTW, I've bypassed the clutch switch in the past, your car will be fine without it as long as you're already in the age-old habit of checking the car's not in gear before starting it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumbleRumble Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 btw i used the highest quality duralast starter relay(just to see if it would get me anywhere) but the one that was in there was a good ol' oem Nissan relay, riddle me that... BWD relays have ford stamps on them for ford cars. Subaru doesn't make their own relays and they are cheap to make. Outsourcing is what mostly everyone does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted November 6, 2017 Share Posted November 6, 2017 btw i used the highest quality duralast starter relay(just to see if it would get me anywhere) but the one that was in there was a good ol' oem Nissan relay, riddle me that... Little known fact, Nissan owned 20% of Subaru until 1999, at which time it was sold off to GM. Subaru borrowed many parts from Nissan. Just about every interior switch is borrowed from Nissan vehicles (and are branded as such), the 4EAT and 5MT are almost the same transmission found in the first generation Nissan Pathfinder, and our rear differentials are from Nissan too. In fact the STI R180 rear diff is almost identical to the 240Z rear diff, minus the spline count on the input shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted November 20, 2017 Author Share Posted November 20, 2017 bypass your clutch switch, you just need to connect the 2 wires from your pedal. If your starter relay (possible) and ignition switch (less possible) are bad, but you have replaced/tested them, the clutch safety switch is the only thing left. BTW, I've bypassed the clutch switch in the past, your car will be fine without it as long as you're already in the age-old habit of checking the car's not in gear before starting it. so no luck still... what is that blue harness in the back ground of the picture? it is sort of the same as the clutch one nut instead of telling the car the clutch is in/pressed down it looks like it would read if it was up but there is a hole where the little switch is so it doesn't sense anything i noticed it on a car i parted out before too and that one started just fine. I do also have the sickest mod ever and it probably actually is the problem, the ignition interlock company sucks nuts to even work with to try and get your car into a shop thats not the shitty one that installed it since they have broken another car of mine before because they cannot follow simple directions. i have litterally replaced or tested the entire system i'm allowed to touch and i'm sure they will deny the unit being defective at all since they are perfect in every way that it couldn't be it... sorry a little rant... thank you to all that helped out i don't think this issue will be resolved i'll just have to deal with the sketchy custum starter switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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