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Stage 1,2,3 modding


EmptySpartan89

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Alright so I'm new this getting into car modding now that I finally have a car that's worth modding. I've heard and seen talk of cars being in stage 2 and stage 3. But I don't really understand what it means. I'm assuming it's the balance of the performance upgrades you put on your car so that it'll still run well for you. I'm wanting to look at upgrading the performance but don't really know where to start. My car is mostly stock, I got it with a Magnaflow exhaust and K&N cold air. That's the extent of the aftermarket as far as I know. I didn't know if there were certain parts I should look at in certain orders or if there's a good kind of like "guideline" out there somewhere for me to get a general idea of what I need to look at upgrading when. I know I'd like to upgrade the turbo an the oil feed lines as well as the brakes and suspension, but that's all I've got so far. Any advice or even good links for 4th gen LGT builds to research would be greatly appreciated! I don't want to just buy stuff and slap it on my car without being informed and knowing what I'm doing a bit first.

 

 

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Get rid of the K&N CAI first. Get an aftermarket downpipe and a tune for stage 2. Unless you are looking to get closeish to 300WHP (turbo/oil lines/intercooler) or some other specific goal, start there and see how you like it.
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So I'm looking at mostly just for a daily driver but also some solid performance. I wouldn't mind trying autocross at some point. I'm not looking to spend $10,000 or anything at once, I'm figuring out a budget based on parts I should look at and judging if it's worth it. So I'm trying to get an idea of how much money I should save up to start the performance work.

 

 

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Right now I'm still paying of the car. I'm going to keep it for a long time. Like, I replace the engine when it craps out, when the 5spd tranny stops working id love to drop a 6spd in it considering I'm riding 4,000 rpms at 80mph, not really liking that. When I get to 100mph it's around 5000-5500 rpms considering redline starts at 6500 I don't like continually riding at the high rev for miles on the highway

 

 

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Get rid of the K&N CAI first. Get an aftermarket downpipe and a tune for stage 2. Unless you are looking to get closeish to 300WHP (turbo/oil lines/intercooler) or some other specific goal, start there and see how you like it.

 

 

 

And why get rid of it the K&N CAI? I look into the downpipe and a tune. I'd like to do the oil lines and turbo just cause the stock one has its issues so I'd like to eliminate that problem

 

 

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Stock Intake's are better. Use this with a AEM Drop in filter as long as you can (i.e. until you go fmic)

 

Stock Intake w/ AEM Drop in Filter

Downpipe

EBCS

Upgraded tmic( optional)

AEM 320lph Fuel Pump

Tuning Alliance Etune

Smiles =)

2017 Subaru STI

2008 Subaru Legacy 2.5i limited

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Stock Intake's are better. Use this with a AEM Drop in filter as long as you can (i.e. until you go fmic)

 

Stock Intake w/ AEM Drop in Filter

Downpipe

EBCS

Upgraded tmic( optional)

AEM 320lph Fuel Pump

Tuning Alliance Etune

Smiles =)

 

 

 

Thanks for the suggestions and the explanation on the CAI, will be looking into the rest of these mods

 

 

 

Awesome! Thank you very much for these helpful links! According to the stage discussion thread my car will soon be at stage 2-2.5. Due to a mechanical problem and a CEL wherein my Cat in my uppipe broke apart and blocked my exhaust fumes from escaping I currently have the car at ALLPRO Subaru down here in GA being fitted with a catless Cobb uppipe and a high flow Cobb downpipe, already have the magnaflow catback exhaust, adding a Grimm speed adaptor to like it all. Replacing a torn turbo hose with a Perrin turbo hose and some leaky radiator hoses. Waiting on all the parts, will hopefully have the car back Monday.

 

 

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Thanks for the suggestions and the explanation on the CAI, will be looking into the rest of these mods

 

 

 

 

Awesome! Thank you very much for these helpful links! According to the stage discussion thread my car will soon be at stage 2-2.5. Due to a mechanical problem and a CEL wherein my Cat in my uppipe broke apart and blocked my exhaust fumes from escaping I currently have the car at ALLPRO Subaru down here in GA being fitted with a catless Cobb uppipe and a high flow Cobb downpipe, already have the magnaflow catback exhaust, adding a Grimm speed adaptor to like it all. Replacing a torn turbo hose with a Perrin turbo hose and some leaky radiator hoses. Waiting on all the parts, will hopefully have the car back Monday.

 

 

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So you missed the part about needing a tune, or just don't believe in that?

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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Read the sticky's as well as other threads around here. Everything you need to know is here, just ask us.

 

You'll like to have this to,

 

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Read the sticky's as well as other threads around here. Everything you need to know is here, just ask us.

 

You'll like to have this to,

 

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

 

 

 

I'll have to check that out, won't open the link on my phone so I'll have to open it up on my computer but will definitely take a look! I try to peek through the threads when I can, where I'm kind of lacking on the specific performance knowledge and the numbers you want to look for and the best order to do things some of it goes over my head, but I'm learning little by little.

 

 

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Nobody has really mentioned this, but make sure your maintenance is up to date. The extra strain you put on the car with extra power will cause significant damage it is not current on it's schedule. You have to remember, your car is 12-13 years old now.

 

Some things come immediately to mind:

 

Drive train fluids? (front and rear dif, transmission) When you start upgrading, you put much more force on these components.

 

Coolant system? Have you ever done a coolant flush? Is your thermostat original? What about your radiator caps? (There are two of them!) Plugged or blocked passageways can hinder cooling performance when you start to push the engine at higher levels.

 

Timing belt? If this has never been changed, it's over due. You have exceeded the time limit. The belt should be replaced every 105K miles. if the belt breaks, the engines in these cars are zero clearance and could require some pretty major work to put it back together again (pistons, rods, valves, etc)

 

Suspension? Sway bar endlinks, lower control arm bushings, shocks, springs, all have several years and several thousand miles on them. Are they up to the task?

 

Brakes? (pads, fluid, hoses, etc) You said you go 100mph. Does the car have the ability to stop efficiently under those circumstances? Brake fluid should be changed every couple of years as it absorbs moisture and starts to become inefficient.

 

CV axle boots? Are they leaking? If they are and dirt can get in, you can snap an axle pretty quick with more power.

 

Clutch? Has it ever been replaced? if so, with what? Factory clutches don't tend to hold much over stock power levels before they start to slip and go bad.

 

Turbo? Is it the stock turbo? How many miles are on it?I would recommend you check shaft play when they have the down pipe off. If the up-pipe cat has broken and come loose, chances are it did the turbo in as well?

 

You mentioned dropping a six speed in it? If that what you want to do, also plan for a new rear end, drive shaft, and associated wiring and brackets for a 6 speed. It's not a simple swap, unfortunately.

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Nobody has really mentioned this, but make sure your maintenance is up to date. The extra strain you put on the car with extra power will cause significant damage it is not current on it's schedule. You have to remember, your car is 12-13 years old now.

 

 

 

Some things come immediately to mind:

 

 

 

Drive train fluids? (front and rear dif, transmission) When you start upgrading, you put much more force on these components.

 

 

 

Coolant system? Have you ever done a coolant flush? Is your thermostat original? What about your radiator caps? (There are two of them!) Plugged or blocked passageways can hinder cooling performance when you start to push the engine at higher levels.

 

 

 

Timing belt? If this has never been changed, it's over due. You have exceeded the time limit. The belt should be replaced every 105K miles. if the belt breaks, the engines in these cars are zero clearance and could require some pretty major work to put it back together again (pistons, rods, valves, etc)

 

 

 

Suspension? Sway bar endlinks, lower control arm bushings, shocks, springs, all have several years and several thousand miles on them. Are they up to the task?

 

 

 

Brakes? (pads, fluid, hoses, etc) You said you go 100mph. Does the car have the ability to stop efficiently under those circumstances? Brake fluid should be changed every couple of years as it absorbs moisture and starts to become inefficient.

 

 

 

CV axle boots? Are they leaking? If they are and dirt can get in, you can snap an axle pretty quick with more power.

 

 

 

Clutch? Has it ever been replaced? if so, with what? Factory clutches don't tend to hold much over stock power levels before they start to slip and go bad.

 

 

 

Turbo? Is it the stock turbo? How many miles are on it?I would recommend you check shaft play when they have the down pipe off. If the up-pipe cat has broken and come loose, chances are it did the turbo in as well?

 

 

 

You mentioned dropping a six speed in it? If that what you want to do, also plan for a new rear end, drive shaft, and associated wiring and brackets for a 6 speed. It's not a simple swap, unfortunately.

 

 

 

Fantastic advice all around, I was actually planning on doing an oil change and radiator flush right before this happened. The timing belt has been on my mind as well, it had a new one when I got it, I've only put 10k miles on the car. Brakes are still good I check them frequently. I haven't checked the drivetrain fluids, so now that you've mentioned it I'll be looking at it as soon as I get the car back. Didn't even think about the CV boots so I should look at that as well. The suspension has been on my mind as well just don't have a proper lift to look at it myself and I'm not sure I would know half of what I'm looking at to be honest, I'll have to do some research into what's what and where it is and the like, the turbo is still stock and it's one of my greatest worries on the car since before I bet I read a bunch of stuff about the problems with the stock turbos. I don't think it did the turbo in, will have to do a good look at, I trust the mechanics that are working on it, since it is a Subaru specialty shop. The turbo hose was ripped when they were looking at everything though. It had a brand new clutch when I bought the car, I still talk to the guy I bought the car from as well, he works in parts dept at the Subaru dealership near my house. Good info on the transmission I didn't realize it will take all of that to do, I'll have to make a list, the suspension I still want to upgrade, though I have no idea where to start with it, like what's a good reliable brand, everything I should replace etc, I'll be looking into it. As I upgrade I want to keep the car balanced. As in power means you need better brakes to stop with, better suspension to handle the corners with the extra power etc. always good to be reminded of maintenance. I want to keep the car going strong for a good while to come.

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
Since the shop is already there, go ahead and have them check the banjo filter. Or go ahead and have them remove it and run an inline filter. I just cranked my 05lgt for the 1st time in 2 months since the turbo went out due to oil starvation. I procrastinated checking it, bought the car near new years and at 103,000 the vf40 blew. Pm and i can send you the list of parts i used to run a seperate line. I think it is easily worth $200 not to have blown a turbo although based on what i hear, ill be very happy with my bnr 16g
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