Desperate Need for Help Getting My Legacy Running

[YungBupLegacy]

Hi there,

 

Just registered for this forum after purchasing my newest car, a 2005 Legacy GT Limited. Not my first Subaru but it's definitely the first time I've been this stumped. Here's the rundown.

 

First, some background. I bought the car almost a week ago after about 3 weeks of negotiating. It had a couple issues, namely CEL codes P1532, P1533 and P0137 (all o2 sensor related), some play in the U joint for the driveshaft and needed a new CV Boot. All mechanical stuff, nothing too tricky. Then right before it was supposed to go in to have it all fixed, then right before I was going to buy it, the previous owner was stranded in a parking lot after it wouldn't start, and towed it to a dealership the next day.

 

After 1 hour there, they were unable to find the any issues and told him it would take another 2-8 hours at $120/h just to DIAGNOSE the issue. He declined, we came to an agreement on a much lower price and I purchased it, as at the time I was able to get it running occasionally. That isn't the case anymore.

 

DESCRIPTION OF THE ISSUE:

So any time I go to start the car, it cranks, turns over and starts totally fine. Sometimes it takes a little longer, but it always starts. However, after about 2 seconds, the security light comes on and the car shuts off. If I have the key in the ignition turned to accessory, the cooling fans come on for about that long as well, shut off, then restart again. Kind of strange, since it's only 18°C today and the car hasn't run and is still cold. They'll keep doing that as long as the key is in the ignition.

When I first got it, I was able to get it running and keep it running by disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery, letting it discharge and then starting it. It would usually run until shut off again, when the issue would return. There would be some days when it would run fine, but it's gradually gotten worse to the point of not at all.

The only code that could be related is P1518, which it is throwing now.

One thing to add is that the car was at one point destined to be a parts car after the head gasket went at 167000km. The whole center radio/heater/A.C. display unit was removed, and instead of unplugging the harnesses, the wires were just cut. It has a replacement now, but I've removed it to get at the wiring behind which is a little bit sketchy. I was going to have my electrician uncle help me out with it, but as I can't move, I can't get it to him.

 

WHAT I'VE TRIED

So far, I've swapped the battery for the one in my dad's 09 Legacy and the one in my 04 Outback, both of which worked fine.

I've switched the car in and out of valet mode.

I've replaced the battery in the fob, and since I only got one key with the car anyways, I went and had another key made with the transponder in it. Still nothing.

I've checked every fuse.

I've fully disconnected the battery overnight, but something a little odd that I noticed was that the trip odometer didn't reset but everything else (clock, radio) did.

Unplugged anything connected to the sketchy wiring, checked all the grounds I could find. They're still attached to where they should be, it seems.

 

I'm at the point of having to get it towed to a shop now, unless anybody has anything else I can try. Even some advice on what kind of shop to take it to would be helpful, like whether I need to take it to a subaru specialist, or an ignition specialist etc.

 

Thanks for any help! I'm at the end of my rope.

[sunny5280]

Hi there,

 

Just registered for this forum after purchasing my newest car, a 2005 Legacy GT Limited. Not my first Subaru but it's definitely the first time I've been this stumped. Here's the rundown.

 

First, some background. I bought the car almost a week ago after about 3 weeks of negotiating. It had a couple issues, namely CEL codes P1532, P1533 and P0137 (all o2 sensor related), some play in the U joint for the driveshaft and needed a new CV Boot. All mechanical stuff, nothing too tricky. Then right before it was supposed to go in to have it all fixed, then right before I was going to buy it, the previous owner was stranded in a parking lot after it wouldn't start, and towed it to a dealership the next day.

 

After 1 hour there, they were unable to find the any issues and told him it would take another 2-8 hours at $120/h just to DIAGNOSE the issue. He declined, we came to an agreement on a much lower price and I purchased it, as at the time I was able to get it running occasionally. That isn't the case anymore.

 

DESCRIPTION OF THE ISSUE:

So any time I go to start the car, it cranks, turns over and starts totally fine. Sometimes it takes a little longer, but it always starts. However, after about 2 seconds, the security light comes on and the car shuts off. If I have the key in the ignition turned to accessory, the cooling fans come on for about that long as well, shut off, then restart again. Kind of strange, since it's only 18°C today and the car hasn't run and is still cold. They'll keep doing that as long as the key is in the ignition.

When I first got it, I was able to get it running and keep it running by disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery, letting it discharge and then starting it. It would usually run until shut off again, when the issue would return. There would be some days when it would run fine, but it's gradually gotten worse to the point of not at all.

The only code that could be related is P1518, which it is throwing now.

One thing to add is that the car was at one point destined to be a parts car after the head gasket went at 167000km. The whole center radio/heater/A.C. display unit was removed, and instead of unplugging the harnesses, the wires were just cut. It has a replacement now, but I've removed it to get at the wiring behind which is a little bit sketchy. I was going to have my electrician uncle help me out with it, but as I can't move, I can't get it to him.

 

WHAT I'VE TRIED

So far, I've swapped the battery for the one in my dad's 09 Legacy and the one in my 04 Outback, both of which worked fine.

I've switched the car in and out of valet mode.

I've replaced the battery in the fob, and since I only got one key with the car anyways, I went and had another key made with the transponder in it. Still nothing.

I've checked every fuse.

I've fully disconnected the battery overnight, but something a little odd that I noticed was that the trip odometer didn't reset but everything else (clock, radio) did.

Unplugged anything connected to the sketchy wiring, checked all the grounds I could find. They're still attached to where they should be, it seems.

 

I'm at the point of having to get it towed to a shop now, unless anybody has anything else I can try. Even some advice on what kind of shop to take it to would be helpful, like whether I need to take it to a subaru specialist, or an ignition specialist etc.

 

Thanks for any help! I'm at the end of my rope.

 

This suggest something with the anti-theft feature of the car. When I had the ECU replaced on my 2005 Outback the dealer did not program it for my second key (they did for the key I had left with them). Same exact thing happened when I used the second key...car would start, run for a few seconds, and then stop running. They took it back into the shop and programmed it for both keys. Problem solved.

 

Since it doesn't sound as if the ECU was replaced I suspect the hack to the wiring may be the cause. In any event you may want to bring this to the shops attention.

[tysparks81]

Does it crank at all like it is trying to start?

 

If you have two other legacy you could try replacing the starter to see if if you can get it started.

 

Do you have spark? if you have no spark good chance timing belt skipped a couple of teeth and is way off. pull the timing covers off and take a look.

[YungBupLegacy]

Does it crank at all like it is trying to start?

 

If you have two other legacy you could try replacing the starter to see if if you can get it started.

 

Do you have spark? if you have no spark good chance timing belt skipped a couple of teeth and is way off. pull the timing covers off and take a look.

 

It starts up and runs like normal, no issues at all, so the starter is good, and the timing probably isn't off as it ran fine when it did get going.

 

 

 

Since it doesn't sound as if the ECU was replaced I suspect the hack to the wiring may be the cause. In any event you may want to bring this to the shops attention

 

I'm thinking that's it. Everything down to the radio antenna was cut, and the way it was rewired the fan display doesn't even show up, but everything works. Something seems fishy with the wiring, but I'm not sure exactly how that would cause an issue with the security system? Unless it's causing a short that is fooling the car into thinking it's being stolen.

[MilesA]

I'm thinking that's it. Everything down to the radio antenna was cut, and the way it was rewired the fan display doesn't even show up, but everything works. Something seems fishy with the wiring, but I'm not sure exactly how that would cause an issue with the security system? Unless it's causing a short that is fooling the car into thinking it's being stolen.

Sounds like a problem in the immobilizer system. There is an antenna in the steering column close to the ignition switch. If that antenna is not connected correctly, the ECU would not be able to read the code in the key. That might be interpreted as an attempt to bypass the immobilizer, so the car shuts down.

[YungBupLegacy]

Sounds like a problem in the immobilizer system. There is an antenna in the steering column close to the ignition switch. If that antenna is not connected correctly, the ECU would not be able to read the code in the key. That might be interpreted as an attempt to bypass the immobilizer, so the car shuts down.

 

Do you know if it's in the same cable as the radio antenna? I noticed there are 2 seperate wires running through the same cord, it won't be fun to splice.

[YungBupLegacy]

Ok so I took the steering column trim off, and nothing was disconnected aside from a green connector with B/Y and R wires in, and a white connector with Teal with silver dots and B/Y wires in, no idea what they're for but connecting them made no difference.

 

As for rewiring the head unit harnesses, I've looked everywhere for pinouts and diagrams but I could only find one for the main harness, not 2 and 3 as well. Anyone know where I could find these?

[apexi]

I'm guessing there's an ID code mismatch. I don't know much about how you'd fix that, I'm guessing you'd need a subaru select monitor. So I'd just drop it off at subaru in your shoes, and tell them that's what I think is going on. Maybe someone else has better advice though.

[jdeitz1979]

Hi there,

 

 

 

Just registered for this forum after purchasing my newest car, a 2005 Legacy GT Limited. Not my first Subaru but it's definitely the first time I've been this stumped. Here's the rundown.

 

 

 

First, some background. I bought the car almost a week ago after about 3 weeks of negotiating. It had a couple issues, namely CEL codes P1532, P1533 and P0137 (all o2 sensor related), some play in the U joint for the driveshaft and needed a new CV Boot. All mechanical stuff, nothing too tricky. Then right before it was supposed to go in to have it all fixed, then right before I was going to buy it, the previous owner was stranded in a parking lot after it wouldn't start, and towed it to a dealership the next day.

 

 

 

After 1 hour there, they were unable to find the any issues and told him it would take another 2-8 hours at $120/h just to DIAGNOSE the issue. He declined, we came to an agreement on a much lower price and I purchased it, as at the time I was able to get it running occasionally. That isn't the case anymore.

 

 

 

DESCRIPTION OF THE ISSUE:

 

So any time I go to start the car, it cranks, turns over and starts totally fine. Sometimes it takes a little longer, but it always starts. However, after about 2 seconds, the security light comes on and the car shuts off. If I have the key in the ignition turned to accessory, the cooling fans come on for about that long as well, shut off, then restart again. Kind of strange, since it's only 18°C today and the car hasn't run and is still cold. They'll keep doing that as long as the key is in the ignition.

 

When I first got it, I was able to get it running and keep it running by disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery, letting it discharge and then starting it. It would usually run until shut off again, when the issue would return. There would be some days when it would run fine, but it's gradually gotten worse to the point of not at all.

 

The only code that could be related is P1518, which it is throwing now.

 

One thing to add is that the car was at one point destined to be a parts car after the head gasket went at 167000km. The whole center radio/heater/A.C. display unit was removed, and instead of unplugging the harnesses, the wires were just cut. It has a replacement now, but I've removed it to get at the wiring behind which is a little bit sketchy. I was going to have my electrician uncle help me out with it, but as I can't move, I can't get it to him.

 

 

 

WHAT I'VE TRIED

 

So far, I've swapped the battery for the one in my dad's 09 Legacy and the one in my 04 Outback, both of which worked fine.

 

I've switched the car in and out of valet mode.

 

I've replaced the battery in the fob, and since I only got one key with the car anyways, I went and had another key made with the transponder in it. Still nothing.

 

I've checked every fuse.

 

I've fully disconnected the battery overnight, but something a little odd that I noticed was that the trip odometer didn't reset but everything else (clock, radio) did.

 

Unplugged anything connected to the sketchy wiring, checked all the grounds I could find. They're still attached to where they should be, it seems.

 

 

 

I'm at the point of having to get it towed to a shop now, unless anybody has anything else I can try. Even some advice on what kind of shop to take it to would be helpful, like whether I need to take it to a subaru specialist, or an ignition specialist etc.

 

 

 

Thanks for any help! I'm at the end of my rope.

 

 

 

Hey, welcome to the forum and you have an issue that sounds like mine kinda. Did the car recently have the brake line recall or the air bag recall? I ask to see if maybe we have a connection with our issues.

I too have an 05 legacy gt limited. Back in December of 2016 I had the airbag and brake line recall done. February of 2017 my car would start and run for 5 seconds and then shut itself down. Was able to get it to my local dealer and they couldn't find an issue and just re flashed all my components and viola the car worked until 35 days ago.

Car did the same thing in February. No check engine or codes of any kind on either occasion.

Took it to the dealer, and 35 days later, still have no results. They have put it a new battery and new battery cables. An extra ground strap on top of the four I already have in. The IBU has been replaced. The ecm has also been replaced along with new valet key, reg key, and new fob, and a new combination meter::dash cluster. Car still sits at the dealer and will not run. If either one of us come up with a solution we need to share.

 

 

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[YungBupLegacy]

Ok so it looks like I'll be taking it in to either a dealer or if I can find one close enough, an authorized technician. At least now I have a better idea of what's happening and possibly point them in the right direction so something can maybe get done.

 

Jdeitz1979, those were actually the first things I was going to try. It did recently have the brake lines redone after being recalled but the airbags have not yet. I'll keep you all updated as I find out more this week.

[zactek]

This is probably a long shot,but maybe the car is in test mode? I know when those plugs (under the carpet) in the passenger footwell are connected,the fans cycle on and off.

 

Zack K.

[jdeitz1979]

This is probably a long shot,but maybe the car is in test mode? I know when those plugs (under the carpet) in the passenger footwell are connected,the fans cycle on and off.

 

Zack K.

 

 

 

You also need that plugged in to flash ecu or pull maps etc too correct?

 

 

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[Clusk_GTWagon]

You also need that plugged in to flash ecu or pull maps etc too correct?

 

 

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Correct.

[Max Capacity]

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

 

 

That may help

[jdeitz1979]

Figure anything out with it?

 

 

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[Merc6]

This is probably a long shot,but maybe the car is in test mode? I know when those plugs (under the carpet) in the passenger footwell are connected,the fans cycle on and off.

 

Zack K.

 

Wouldn't that cause the ERHC message in the cluster?

[YungBupLegacy]

Nope, Still just trying everything I can...

 

Also, no extra codes showing, just the "security" light coming on solid followed by the car shutting off.

[Max Capacity]

may be this,

 

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/69-audio-video-security-navigation/51567-security-light-permanently.html

[Logie_OBXT]

Ok so I took the steering column trim off, and nothing was disconnected aside from a green connector with B/Y and R wires in, and a white connector with Teal with silver dots and B/Y wires in, no idea what they're for but connecting them made no difference.

 

As for rewiring the head unit harnesses, I've looked everywhere for pinouts and diagrams but I could only find one for the main harness, not 2 and 3 as well. Anyone know where I could find these?

 

As you've seen, there are three connectors that attach to the audio/climate control system. i26 is the main audio connector that I'm sure you've found the diagrams for. The other two are i85 and i88.

 

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=250972&stc=1&d=1497465626

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=250973&stc=1&d=1497465626

 

i85 goes to the satellite radio controls on the steering wheel, the subwoofer, and the BIU for the instrument light dimming.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=250974&stc=1&d=1497465626

 

 

i88 is for the A/C control unit.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=250975&stc=1&d=1497465626

 

Also, make sure that the green diagnostic connectors in the passenger footwell are unplugged.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=250976&stc=1&d=1497465626

 

Also, there are two test connectors on the driver's side, up by the fusebox. I believe you found these as well. The green ones here are for the instrument cluster test and the clear ones are for the TPM system test. Both should be unconnected. I was testing things, that's why one is connected.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=250979&stc=1&d=1497466365

 

With the car starting then immediately stopping, that tells me it's something with the immobilizer as the others have stated. My hope is that it hasn't been damaged by the forceful removal of the radio.

[YungBupLegacy]

Wow, thanks Logie! However, for the i88 and i85 connectors, along with i26 there are duplicate colours. They're all in one bundle so I'm not really sure how to tell which is which

[jdeitz1979]

Very helpful info

 

 

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[YungBupLegacy]

Ok so a quick update:

 

All the test connectors I have found have been disconnected, fuses rechecked and different keys used before and after disconnecting the battery. The car needed a boost from the other Legacy to get started, even though I was pretty sure I had charged it a bit before I left it earlier this week.

 

Also, I found this under the drivers seat (having trouble attaching pictures from my phone, sorry for the link):

http://imgur.com/a/GKuVV

 

It was wrapped in electrical tape and looks like it was cut, not sure what it is as all the seat controls seem to work fine.

 

I've included a link to a video of the actual start up of the car since I still haven't gotten anywhere, it might be more helpful:

 

Last thing is that I noticed that when the key is turned to ACC, the dash chimes and the seatbelt light flashes, regardless of whether or not I'm actually sitting in the driver's seat. Nothing in the passenger seat either. Could it be related?

[MilesA]

Your car has all the symptoms of an unregistered key being used. You could try having your key(s) re-registered (requires authorized dealer), that procedure could fail if there is a problem elsewhere with the immobilizer system, but it would give you more info to go on. It might even take care of the problem.

[YungBupLegacy]

Ok, it's supposed to go into the electrician next week so in the meantime I'll go in to the dealer and try that. Although it was already there for an hour and it solved nothing. I think all they did was run diagnostics though...

[EmptySpartan89]

Wow, this is a hell of a headache of a problem. My LGT was having the same start up problem after I took it to the dealer for a CEL and rough idle. Though my turned out to be a crumbled cat in the uppipe damaging the temperature sensor making it read 650 degrees after sitting cold all night. But because of that when they would go to start it, it would start and then shut off a few seconds later

 

 

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