3.6R Oil Consumption

[GhiaAddict]

I've researched oil consumption. My sole question is there anyone on this forum that had to get a new shortblock due to Oil Consumption in a 3.6R? I am in the process of doing the Oil Consumption test. In the past 3-4K miles my 3.6R has loss/misplaced 2.5qts of oil. I am using Royal Purple 10w30 Full Synthetic with KN Filter. I'm hoping they have to replace the shortblock with a fresh one. My warranty expires at around 120K miles. Currently have 108K on the vehicle.

[leolfds]

still under warranty i would take it to the dealer and see what they have to say.

[FLlegacy]

still under warranty i would take it to the dealer and see what they have to say.

 

You must have missed the part where he stated he was doing the oil consumption test...

[DugsSin]

I would try running some Castrol Edge 10W-40 high mileage.

[capttris]

You should carefully read your warranty statement about oil consumption, if it gives any acceptable rates. Do you have the Subaru warranty or aftermarket?

2.5 qts of oil over 4K miles is only about 1/2 Qt every 1000 and well under the limit.

While a new short block sounds exciting and sounds like a great solution, the reality is that it is ONLY a new short block. The heads and all other goodies are simply swapped over. If you plan to keep the car for 200,000+ miles, it would be a great time to have some of those components replaced, like water pump, spark plugs, etc.

 

Honestly, after lots of research, and also having MY short block replaced, you aren't really gaining much by having it replaced. (a new crank shaft, pistons & rings, and not much more).

The PROS:

"potentially" no oil consumption with the new short block

all new seals/gaskets (to further delay any future oil leaks, etc)

an opportunity to replace wearable items with no cost of labor (the labor is in the short block replacement anyway, to swap all parts over)

an opportunity to have the tech inspect all internals/valves and hopefully bring them to your attn.

 

CONS:

pulling out and tearing down an engine with 108,000 miles on it may cause some things to need replacement if they break coming off, or need replacement. (you could argue warranty on this)

if you are OCD about how your engine bay looks (neat, clean, factory-perfect), it will not look 100% the same after. (mine was close, but I could certainly tell the difference)

[nads]

Like capttris says there are more places for oil to go. Have you pulled you plugs and checked for oil contamination? Done a leak down test? Check/replace PCV valve?

 

If you do a new short block have the head gone through, guides checked, new valve seals, cam seals and you may as well get a valve job.

[Timothy.B]

I wanna say, and I'm really not sure why this is but I may have an idea with your issue. I completely didn't think of it. The 3.6R states it takes 6.9qts of oil when you do a change. I've found that I've had to add more. Seems like closer to 7.5qts to get it near the full mark. This has been for the last few changes. I would put close to 7 in. The oil would look good. I'd drive around for a week. Oil light would come on. "Wot in tarnation?" I'd fill it up to the full line again. Drive around, fill up at gas station and check it. It's fine. Another week, fill up, check it. Still full. Drive around, two weeks later. Just barely moved. I use a full tank a week so I'm driving roughly 330 miles on average a week. Last time I changed it, I checked it twice. Went out for a couple minute drive. Let it sit for a second. Checked it again, added some more. Checked it. Right at F. It's only dropped 1/4 or so far in 1400 miles.

 

So, if its using the same amount all the time then it's something else. Just a thought. I thought I was burning a lot of oil but then I'd fill it up to full and it'd be fine for 6 weeks and barely move. Definitely move to a thicker oil like 10w40. You may be able to do 10w50 but not sure. You are in a much hotter climate than Ohio.

[nads]

I learned on both my 02 WRX and my in-laws multitude of Foresters (all EJ25's) is to not check the oil after driving, even waiting 10-20 min I'd get a false reading. They would always read different after sitting overnight. My only guess as to why I was seeing this was the Boxer motors drain back may be slower than the "upright" inline and V8 engines I've owned. I have not really done much checking on the 3.6r, the few times I have checked it it has been fine or a tad low.

 

A faulty PCV can suck oil. Also Synthetic likes to leak and blow by more than conventional. I run Motorcraft blend, seems to do well and is a good oil.

[GTEASER]

Get off that Royal Purple crap and run Castrol Edge 10W-40. Your consumption issue should go away. Also, get rid of that K&N filter and use OEM filters. As others have mentioned, replace your PCV valve.

[RavenII]

Get off that Royal Purple crap and run Castrol Edge 10W-40. Your consumption issue should go away. Also, get rid of that K&N filter and use OEM filters. As others have mentioned, replace your PCV valve.

 

I came on the forum again for 2 reasons...

 

1. To find a rear windshield spoiler thingy...(still looking)

2. Find out what oil to use next, I used Motul 5w30 in my '10 3.6r and 1.5k Miles later, I see the oil light come on....

 

My question is...which weight and version of Edge do you suggest...and is that a general consensus?

[MilesA]

...and is that a general consensus?

A general consensus on which oil to use? Check back when Hell is freezing over.

[Timothy.B]

I came on the forum again for 2 reasons...

 

1. To find a rear windshield spoiler thingy...(still looking)

2. Find out what oil to use next, I used Motul 5w30 in my '10 3.6r and 1.5k Miles later, I see the oil light come on....

 

My question is...which weight and version of Edge do you suggest...and is that a general consensus?

 

1. Don't let the oil light to tell you when to add oil.

2. If you want to change more often but cheaper. Rotella T6 5w40 (about 4500 miles) If you want change later. Motul 8100 X-Clean 5w40 (I believe good for around 6000 miles) Castrol Edge is probably good too. Not sure how long you can run it for. If you drive your car like Ken Block on a daily basis, Motul 300V.

 

Blackstone labs would be your best bet on OCI and engine health.

 

I've been using considerably less with 5w40 compared to 5w30. I always order an extra 2 qts for any consumption after a change. It seems pretty typical to add at least a quart between changes.

[RavenII]

A general consensus on which oil to use? Check back when Hell is freezing over.

 

HAH, you know what, after looking back, that was a pretty dumb assed statement. So touché, sir.

 

1. Don't let the oil light to tell you when to add oil.

2. If you want to change more often but cheaper. Rotella T6 5w40 (about 4500 miles) If you want change later. Motul 8100 X-Clean 5w40 (I believe good for around 6000 miles) Castrol Edge is probably good too. Not sure how long you can run it for. If you drive your car like Ken Block on a daily basis, Motul 300V.

 

Blackstone labs would be your best bet on OCI and engine health.

 

I've been using considerably less with 5w40 compared to 5w30. I always order an extra 2 qts for any consumption after a change. It seems pretty typical to add at least a quart between changes.

 

Gotcha, I ran 5w30 Motul X-Clean with a bit of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) and dude!...I'm at 1500 after my change, with 1.25-1.5 qts consumed. I'm hoping it's due to the MMO, but then again, it is a Subaru...with ~100k on the clock.

 

I had ran Mobil1 5w30 for around 3k? miles or so, and found that my engine got louder, sooner, than any time I've ever changed oil on a car. My daily commute to work is 8mi. so I'm sure that takes its toll on the oil.4

 

I've read that going heavier on the weight (5w40/10w40) can cause seals and oil system components to fail...any issues with that?

[nads]

From the 2014 Owners manual. Decode it however you want. I know engine oil is like talking religion, politics, your favorite carburetor brand or sports team but I really see no reason to run full synthetic in the 3.6r.

[FLlegacy]

The reasoning for running a full synthetic is to have a consistent oil base vs conventional. If you are running a full synthetic and changing oil like you would conventional then your just wasting your money. A single UOA a year could save you a couple changes.

 

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[GhiaAddict]

So i'm almost at the 1200 miles. I checked the oil level last night after running the car at idle for 20 minutes. I checked the oil dipstick and it was between the two dots. After mentioning this on the Fifth Gen Legacy FB page, they said I should wait about 15-20 mins after shutting off to measure. So this morning after my 30 min drive to work I waited 20-30 mins after shutting off car. The reading on the oil dipstick was slight above the top dot. I rechecked about 2.5hrs after shutting off and it was the same. Slightly above the top dot. So my assumption/conclusion is the Royal Purple is a waste of money, and maybe the K&N HP filter increases the oil pressure a little too much. So stock filters from now on and maybe stock Subaru Synthetic.

[GTEASER]

Wait, so what are you running right now, currently?

[GhiaAddict]

It is on OEM Subaru Filter and Subaru 5W30 Synthetic.

[Timothy.B]

I always get a 3 pack of these.

[GhiaAddict]

Car failed the Oil Consumption test. New shortblock should be in my future. Car still at dealer.

[10PremLegacy]

I took my 2013 2.5i to the dealer over the same issue... It only took them 25 minutes to tell me that I needed a new motor... I am only at 54k miles on the car. The dealer topped off my oil and sent me home, but I have an appointment to have it replaced next week... I got lucky because I only had 800 miles since my oil change that the specific dealer did a month before. I was about a quart and a half low...

 

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[A_A_ron]

Car failed the Oil Consumption test. New shortblock should be in my future. Car still at dealer.

 

Hey good luck! I hope they consider that engine a part of the warranty/recall. I was talking to a senior master subie mechanic and he was very aware of the oil consumption issue but he made it sound like not all cars were eligible. If you do get a new short block you could see if the dealership is willing to let another mechanic take the job and go forged internals etc. to go turbocharged. Boost is life. Turbocompresión es vida.

[GhiaAddict]

Turbocompresión es vida.

 

That's the truth, but I have no intention of turbocharging or supercharging the 3.6R. I do plan on headers, custom mid-pipe with hiflo cats connected to a modified OEM 2015 STi catback. Clearly will get XRT tune to go with it. That'll suit me for my daily driving needs.

 

I'm building a 1970 Karmann Ghia with a 2-liter Aircooled boxer engine for my fun car. I do want to boost that. Other options is a 2.0 WRX Turbo swap.

[BBPeik]

If you turbo that Ghia it will be quick. Fastest car I have been in to this day is an air cooled bug. Trust me 10 second 1/4s in a bug is scary fast

[GhiaAddict]

If you turbo that Ghia it will be quick. Fastest car I have been in to this day is an air cooled bug. Trust me 10 second 1/4s in a bug is scary fast

 

Trust me I know how fast they can be without needing crazy power. Combination of Power to weight ratio, rear engine, and rwd make for crazy 60 foot times. I mean if you've seen Asians VW bug on Street Outlaws and all the cars its embarrassed, you get an idea. I was bothered when they messed with the paint to make it look like shit on the outside. That car was well built by the person he bought it from.