JamesJaikissoon Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 can someone do a walk through for our vehicle on how to replace spark plugs? i have no idea about how to go through this . Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 Can you take some pics of the engine bay? It's probably not much different from previous generations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leolfds Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 Hope it helps.2 Spark Plug.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronemus Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 The biggest problem is the clearance to the fenders - it looks as though the engine will have to be raised 2-3" to get a socket on the plugs. If anybody has a way to do it without the lift I'd like to hear about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spect2k Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 No need to raise the engine. Only minor disassembly needed. Good post above with the PDF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 (edited) Good info so far. There are a few tricks if you have not done this job before. I remember cursing a lot the first time I did it. Here's a few tips: -Getting the coil packs out of the way can be difficult on the rear two cylinders. Once you've removed the 10mm retaining bolts, you can rotate the coil packs 180 degrees making them slip out more easily. You don't necessarily have to remove the wiring harness from the coil pack -- the wiring harness is a bit fragile so it's less likely to break if you just leave it attached. -The combo of spark plug socket, u-joint and short extension is just the right length to reach the spark plug and leave room to attach a ratchet. A low-profile ratchet helps give you more room to work. -Don't over-tighten. The spark plugs thread into fairly soft aluminum. Use the torque specs above or tighten each plug by hand and turn no more than an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn until firmly seated. -Some people recommend using anti-seize on the plug threads. NGK advises not to use it. The plugs already have a coating on them to prevent seizing. Edited June 9, 2017 by MilesA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prinj Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 I found that the LH side required that I remove the battery box in addition to the battery. There's six (6) 14mm bolts holding it down. Two (2) on the side of the box required a long handle racketing box end wrench, but I used a regular size wrench with my makeshift breaker bar pipe. This was the hardest part of the replacement for me. Don't forget to lube the spark plug boots. Some of mine where welded on making it difficult to remove the ignition coil without worrying I was going to damage the boots. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy.B Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 The factory guide is pretty much spot on, plus you have a 2.5 which is easier than the 3.6. The rear plug on each side is a royal pain to remove with the six cylinder. The rear plugs? No, no, the plugs are fine. Trying to figure out how the hell to get the coilpack off in the back, then looking like an idiot because you're spending 10 minutes trying to get it back in, haha. Timothy.B's 2011 LEGACY 3.6R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Painless Posted April 2, 2018 Share Posted April 2, 2018 Just replaced mine this weekend at 109K miles in my 2016 Legacy. The battery tray mount bolts (you know the two) were the toughest part of the job for me. I ended up leaving them out as the four remaining are more than adequate to secure it. Picked this up from Amazon and it was perfect with the extensions I already had on hand. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A444E80/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Ordered new plugs directly from NGK. Pic shows How they looked next to new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilot1226 Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 From what I've heard on the 3.6, you can access it easier from the bottom, but you kind of have to do it by touch since you won't be able to see. Might need a helper to guide you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Painless Posted November 16, 2019 Share Posted November 16, 2019 Figured this was as good a place as any to post an update. 2016 Legacy 2.5 Premium 188k miles. Second spark plug replacement (see previous post for 109k replacement) I'm glad I left out the two PITA battery tray bolts. Saved a bunch of time and cursing. Engine was running just fine. However... Based on my findings (side electrodes were toast), I let these go too long and will replace again at 60k as per the Service Manual scheduled maintenance interval. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted November 18, 2019 Share Posted November 18, 2019 (edited) 2.5L you will need to remove the intake up to the throttle body and this involves unplugging the maf and un-clipping the harness from the air box . disconnect battery first or wait 10 minutes for the car to shut off completely you will need to unbolt the PS pump reservoir (oops not applicable to 6th gen) it is recommended you remove the battery for easier access on driver side you can do it without jacking the engine. after you have done the above, 1. Start on the front plug passenger side 2. unbolt coil pack and lay aside 3. unbolt rear coil pack and lay aside (due to length it is IMPOSSIBLE to mix them up) if coil pack is not intact or is otherwise damaged, replace 4. insert spark plug socket into hole 5. insert 6in ext into hole and snap it into the spark plug socket, then rotate it until it slides on plug 6. insert ratchet into extension 7. loosen plug 8. remove ratchet from extension 9. use fingers to finish removing plug 10. remove ext with socket and plug attached 11. repeat 2-10 for rear plug 12. separate ext from spark plug socket. 13. insert new plug into socket. 14. Insert socket into hole 15. insert extension into hole and gently press until it locks into spark plugs socket 16. turn extension left a bit so you are not threaded into hole improperly 17 hand tighten plug with fingers 18. put toque wrench/ratchet on ext and tighten to correct specs 19 remove torque wrench from ext. 20. remove ext from hole while still attached to spark plug socket 21. replace coil pack, make sure you hear it POP and then replace bolt and tighten to spec. 22. Repeat steps 12-21 for rear plug driver side is identical except for you have to un-clip a brake line and the high pressure AC line from the frame rail and move them back slightly so the socket and ext can clear the rail when removing the plugs when done replace PS pump reservoir and intake tract on passenger side and do not forget to plug in the maf. replace battery on driver side. start car with nothing on and let it relearn idle Edited November 18, 2019 by YeuEmMaiMai Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ammcinnis Posted November 18, 2019 Share Posted November 18, 2019 ... you will need to unbolt the PS pump reservoir ... Gen 6 Legacys have electrically boosted power steering: no reservoir. "If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted November 18, 2019 Share Posted November 18, 2019 Gen 6 Legacys have electrically boosted power steering: no reservoir. well there is that i forgot as I just typed up what I did with my car... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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