Th3Franz Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 haha I felt bad because you were under the rear of the car working on the coilovers -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmarky Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 and finished the axle swap, thanks again for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted May 21, 2017 Author Share Posted May 21, 2017 Rhitter, you are the man. I think you did like 40% of the total work. A big thanks to Rhitter, Th3Franz and wpmarky for helping out with my work, and letting me learn and ask a ton of questions. I learned a lot, and now I think I'm ready to do brakes on my own, next time around, if need be. Will try to find time to bed in the brakes properly today.. They were ok to drive home cautiously.. Almost went too far into into an intersection when I braked a little late for a red, about 5 blocks from home, though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 Np. It was a pleasure. Brakes not grabbing until late is a little surprising. Do you have a higher temperature pad in there? I guess get them bedded ASAP. How did the RCEs feel on the 880? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted May 21, 2017 Author Share Posted May 21, 2017 More like, initial bite was there, but pushing harder didn't do much more. Bedded them in today, and got a P0171.. Guess I popped a hose.. Rces feel bouncy compared to konis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 we set the damping pretty soft on the RCEs. if they are bouncy, try giving them a couple clicks clockwise to increase the damping. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted May 22, 2017 Author Share Posted May 22, 2017 Sorry for the lack of updates - today was mostly a family day.. I was right about the popped hose - it was the infamous "blue tee". I have turkeylord's new T, but it popped off at the manifold, of course. The zip tie I had on there previously had disintegrated. TRIED to slide the 5/8" hose clamp that was at the "T" over to the manifold, and all that accomplished was that my 6 mm socket fell down into the manifold well (not inside, just under all the lines), and took forever to get out. So I put back another zip tie, that increased the tension a little, and added ANOTHER zip tie around the 2 hard plastic hoses just above there and the T. So that, even if the first zip tie breaks and there is no resistance to the hose popping off, it would still need to either break the 2nd zip tie (I used bigger zip ties this time, before they were really thin) or bend the hose in order to pop off. Hopefully that's an even better solution than the initial zip tie - that one lasted ~3+ years, IIRC. Will try to adjust the RCEs a little tomorrow. They felt almost like the car was lifting off over bumps, but that's just compared to the Konis on the quite stiff/full stiff settings. Felt nicer overall, but a little less controlled. Will have to find the happy medium. On the "so far, very positive" side - several of my clunks and creaks seem to be gone, so I'm quite hopeful that it was my old top hats that were making all those noises. If it's true, it's HUGE. Those creaks were driving me nuts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 Ok cool. If the pedal firms up more after consecutive brake pedal pumps, then that's an indicator there is still a little air in the system. You may want to try using your power bleeder on the brakes. When replacing all the brake lines like that, it often takes more bleeding to get every last air bubble out. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmarky Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 Mattias, I emailed RCE and they said they'll send me new dust boots. They asked for pics, are you able to take a picture of them some time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 Mattias, I emailed RCE and they said they'll send me new dust boots. They asked for pics, are you able to take a picture of them some time? Having trouble uploading.. Let me know if the FB IM pictures came through.. Adjusted the RCEs 1 full turn CW today - will see how they are tomorrow. Drove the 237 yesterday and felt like I was on a trampoline.. SO much bouncy.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmarky Posted May 24, 2017 Share Posted May 24, 2017 Mac/Franz - did you guys set the preload when you put them back together? Mattias - 1 turn isn't much, i think there's 16 or so clicks. Sounds like you prefer it stiff, so maybe you should go full stiff and work back from there. These were the least bouncy out of all the suspensions I've tried. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted May 24, 2017 Share Posted May 24, 2017 Yeah we only took one apart and I adjusted it back to match the other one for preload/ ride height Mattias, you saw my post above about using the power bleeder? -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmarky Posted May 24, 2017 Share Posted May 24, 2017 also set the rears to stiff, those might still be on the softer settings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted May 24, 2017 Author Share Posted May 24, 2017 Yeah we only took one apart and I adjusted it back to match the other one for preload/ ride height Mattias, you saw my post above about using the power bleeder? Yeah, I did. Brakes seem ok so far, after bedding them in. Will try to find time on the weekend to try it, but not sure.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted May 24, 2017 Author Share Posted May 24, 2017 also set the rears to stiff, those might still be on the softer settings Ok. Those are going to be a bit more of a pain to get to - will need to find a 90-degree 2mm allen wrench.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted May 26, 2017 Author Share Posted May 26, 2017 Got a 2mm allen wrench, turns out the passenger side rear was maybe 4-6 clicks from full stiff, but I think the driver's side rear was full soft. Set everything to 1-click-from-full-hard all around. Will see how that does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted May 26, 2017 Author Share Posted May 26, 2017 Picked up the Rotas today - 17x8.5 - that's wide! Xenonk says I can go up to 255 - does that sound right? Or go conservative at 245? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted May 26, 2017 Author Share Posted May 26, 2017 Just as I was leaving to pick up the wheels, noticed that my driver's door no longer locks with the remote (or the buttons in the car). I can manually move the mechanism, and it locks/unlocks the door, but it doesn't respond to any electrical input. There is a faint vibration inside when I click the remote, so it seems that the signal is still getting there, but the acutator/servo has maybe failed? Do I need to open up the whole door card to get inside, or can I access it by just popping out the trim by the lock/door release lever? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 I'd stick with 245 if you want to avoid rolling the fenders a lot. 245 on 8.5 fits really nice. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted May 26, 2017 Author Share Posted May 26, 2017 I'd stick with 245 if you want to avoid rolling the fenders a lot. 245 on 8.5 fits really nice. Discount Tire has Hankook Ventus V12s in 245/40-17 for ~$120/tire - with a $25/tire rebate, a $75 "Memorial Day" rebate, AND a possible $60 discount for signing up for their credit card. That would be $245 total, or around $61/tire. At that price, I wouldn't care if they only lasted 1-3 sessions.. But, they do get horrible track reviews.. Hankook R-S4 is $160.45, with a bunch of other tires around that price, like Pilot Super Sports.. Any other suggestions? My default is PSS, but I could be persuaded into any others around that price. Firestone keeps trying to sell me on Wide Oval Indy tires - any good? Any good Continental models? Should I look at any Kumhos, or super cheap Federal RSR 595s? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 Just as I was leaving to pick up the wheels, noticed that my driver's door no longer locks with the remote (or the buttons in the car). I can manually move the mechanism, and it locks/unlocks the door, but it doesn't respond to any electrical input. There is a faint vibration inside when I click the remote, so it seems that the signal is still getting there, but the acutator/servo has maybe failed? Do I need to open up the whole door card to get inside, or can I access it by just popping out the trim by the lock/door release lever? Whole door card. The trim is all part of it. I don't think it comes off separately. I consistently hear good things about the 595s. Just maybe not in the rain. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted May 26, 2017 Author Share Posted May 26, 2017 Whole door card. The trim is all part of it. I don't think it comes off separately. Yeah, I was reading up on that.. I need to re-align my window anyway.. And maybe replace part of the handle.. Sent an email out to garage1, will also have to check with RBMS. I consistently hear good things about the 595s. Just maybe not in the rain. Just checking: which 595s? 595 SS (or now, just 595) are $76/tire for 245/40/17. Looks like someone up in Sacramento is selling 595 RS-RR for $90 in 235/40/17 and $100 in 255/40/17 (no 245/40/17). The 595 (SS) look like the PSS competitors - the RS-R and RS-RR look like flat-out track tires that may not be street legal.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 Since you are getting a track tire - and you already have PSS for your normal wheels, I would probably look into something the the RS-R - or go all out for the RE-11s. Wet / cold traction is supposedly garbage, but, that's why you have your PSS. Anything that's stickier than an all season tire though would be good. I wouldn't sweat it too much. Good deal + ultra high performance tire is all you need for a track day to start out with. Edit: good article on picking the right tire http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/3974/How-to-PROPERLY-select-and-size-TIRES-for-PERFORMANCE.aspx My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 Mattias, I emailed RCE and they said they'll send me new dust boots. They asked for pics, are you able to take a picture of them some time? Any updates? I figured I should wait until after they're in to get an alignment, since the entire assemblies will have to be taken apart? Can I raise the rear height by adjusting the lower collars? Or does that just affect preload? It has serious saggy butt right now.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmarky Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 the boots just came in, can you pm me your address? You can raise the rear height by adjusting the lower collars. It's debatable if preload is affected. For me it's not since the downward force from the car's weight is constant, so the amount the spring will compress is also constant. In my mind what will change is the amount of strut travel. If you can imagine raising the lower collar, the spring compression will be constant but the strut will be raised higher in the strut body along with the height of the car. That leaves more room for compression, less room when the strut goes the other direction (rebound?) Not sure if that makes sense, I don't think there is clear consensus on how this 1 collar style coilover is impacted from raising the height. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.