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Bay Area Sorta Work Day


hadvw

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I would be interested in joining. Got my replacement EWG installed so the car is derivable again. I need some assistance drilling out two broken bolts...one for my mudflap and the other for the headlight assembly.

 

Does anyone have bolt extractors?

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Good news I found my 10/12 mm flare nut wrench. I also have a flare nut wrench "socket" set.

 

Excellent!

 

I'll let Hadvw set the time frame (my guess it will be a longish day). Unless everything goes smoothly. And on an all California car, it just might.

 

I can make it pretty much anytime 8:00am or later. Do you have a spot in the shade to work, or should I bring a canopy? What time is good for others?

 

Also, food/beverage preferences? Will definitely bring some coke/Snapple.

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You will have the spot in the garage. Rest is pretty exposed. I have one level ish spot out side my garage. Rest of the street is on a slight hill, but should be able to do any engine bay work.

 

@need BB, what sort of broken? Head sheared off or just rounded?

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Hadvw - you could talk to Mert at RBMS about the trans cooler. One of his employees has a trans cooler on his automatic Forester XT. He'd do it for you I'm sure , or he'd tell you how to do it yourself. About a mile from GST..
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Hadvw - you could talk to Mert at RBMS about the trans cooler. One of his employees has a trans cooler on his automatic Forester XT. He'd do it for you I'm sure , or he'd tell you how to do it yourself. About a mile from GST..

 

Yeah, I think I can do it, after looking at it.. Just need to clamp a couple of the lines for a bit, cut a couple of lines, splice in the thermostat, etc..

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I believe Th3Franz will also be there for a bit?

 

wpmarky is dropping off the struts around 10:00 or so, I believe..

 

Those are the two things I really need help with - brake lines/bleeding and suspension. I can do things like sway bar brackets, etc, myself if there's not enough time/energy/etc.

 

I also have someone from somewhat further north maybe coming to sell me some wheels that I found on Facebook..

 

need bb and Slugster seem interested..

 

Anyone else?

 

Any suggestions on beverages/food? So far, I was thinking coke + chips + Snapple or other similar. Plus some bottled water.

 

Beer - I would have one or two, anyone else? I like Stella/Becks Sapphire/Moosehead, but what do you guys like?

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will bring the coils + motul synthetic brake fluid + tubing that you can use to bleed brakes + my jack in case another car needs to get lifted up.

 

Can pick everything up on my way back home in the afternoon.

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will bring the coils + motul synthetic brake fluid + tubing that you can use to bleed brakes + my jack in case another car needs to get lifted up.

 

Can pick everything up on my way back home in the afternoon.

 

I will bring axle stands, various wrenches, vice grips, etc.. Don't have flare wrenches, though. Will bring my 19.2v drill with 3/8 adapter - works for some bolts/nuts.. Plus big torque wrench that doubles as a breaker bar. I will have subaru jack with me, but can also bring my 3 ton jack, if needed.

 

I have 2L of ATE Typ 200 brake fluid..

 

As for projects, here's my list:

Really want to get done:

-brakes (will put on 3mm spacers at home, will hit the fittings with some PB Blaster tomorrow, just in case)

-coilovers

 

Will bring along, if people are interested/have time/energy:

-rear sway mounting brackets + sway bar bushings

-oil change + filter + Fumoto Valve + Blackstone sample (I'm just over 1k miles right now, so not needed, but if can get done, great!)

-5EAT transmission cooler +thermostat (although I don't have any spare Amsoil ATF right now, so probably needs to wait)

-Redline hood struts

-coolant flush with distilled water and/or replace expansion tank to turbo hose (probably need to clean up port)

-AVO turbo inlet (+intake gaskets?)

 

None of those take up much room, and I'm totally fine if none of those get done. Don't want to make anyone's place a mess, either, so may pay to get some of those done..

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Always good to pick up a couple extra cans of Brakleen. I always go thru 2 cans when doing caliper swaps, brake lines and bleeding. Best to keep brake fluid neutralized and off your hands, tools and parts as it is corrosive and will bubble paint. Also have plenty of nitrile mechanics gloves around.
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Installed 3mm spacers (just to make sure no surprises) and pb-blasted everything that looked like a brake line connection (front and back).

 

Anyone have some spare lug nuts? For some reason, I used my shallow 19mm (from my socket set) rather than the 19mm deep impact wrench I bought (although I don't use the air tools as much as I thought I would). It seems to have rounded off a lugs. Not badly, but after 12 years, they've all seen better days. Should probably just buy some new ones.. OEM lugs good enough for all intents and purposes?

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I have a bottle if you don't mind unclogging it xD

 

n/m thought you meant the orange goop. Did the wilwoods need caliper grease?

 

Actually, maybe I do mean the orange goop - the stuff you put on the pads to let them slide. I think I said the wrong thing above. The actual slide pins on the rear seem fine, but I didn't get new clips with the pads, and the old ones seem a little worn. I figured a little grease there would help. No big deal - that's something I can do at home, if need be.

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yep I'll bring the brakes over and can help with install and bleeding them

 

Thanks. This is my biggest "unknown" - have never done anything involving bleeding the brakes. Replace pads/rotors, yes, but have never touched the fluid.

 

To replace lines/calipers, do you have to drain the whole system, since otherwise it will leak out anyway? Does that mean one then has to bench-bleed the MBC?

 

Or is there an "off" switch on the MBC so it doesn't get full of air while swapping out the lines, then do a regular flush-and-bleed?

 

I'll bring my power-bleeder, just in case - I will need to learn to do this myself at some point..

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You unbolt the caliper, and disconnect the line, then install the new one, do this for each corner. Just make sure the MC stays topped up with fluid. It won't all drain out immediately, maybe if you leave it for a few days it will, but remember it all has to go thru the ABS module too. No bench bleeding is necessary unless you run the MC really dry while bleeding. There is not off valve in the line.
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You unbolt the caliper, and disconnect the line, then install the new one, do this for each corner. Just make sure the MC stays topped up with fluid. It won't all drain out immediately, maybe if you leave it for a few days it will, but remember it all has to go thru the ABS module too. No bench bleeding is necessary unless you run the MC really dry while bleeding. There is not off valve in the line.

 

Thanks, I was thinking it would all drain out in 30 seconds once you disconnected one of the lines..

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Full flush will be recommended if you're replacing front and rear calipers. This is where the ATE blue was useful if used in combo with the gold so you can see when the old stuff is out and only the new color is left.

 

lots of different ways to do it, i was just reading this the other day:

https://alconkits.com/technical-info/tech-tips/29-brake-bleeding-tips

 

It totally says to not do what I've been doing: having a buddy pump the brakes and then you open the valve, then close the valve, repeat until done.

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