Alright, getting new bulbs for the Legacy as we head into Winter... need some advice

[SWP-LegacyGT]

K, so I'm sourcing these via http://www.PowerBulbs.co.uk/ that's the website i'm going to order them from.

 

Knowing the "silverstar" brand and how Slyvania sucks ass, I'm going with Orsram bulbs both H7 and H3.

 

Anyways, here's the two bulbs:

 

H7 - http://www.powerbulbs.co.uk/default.asp?product.asp?numRecordPosition=1&P_ID=124&strPageHistory=cat&strKeywords=&SearchFor=&PT_ID=89

 

H3 -

http://www.powerbulbs.co.uk/default.asp?product.asp?numRecordPosition=1&P_ID=141&strPageHistory=cat&strKeywords=&SearchFor=&PT_ID=75

 

Anyways, I'm just asking before I pull the trigger on them since they look good to me.

 

The H3 bulb is approx ~ $22 US bucks

and the H7 bulb is approx ~ $26 bucks. All in all, that's about $50 bucks for new bulbs.

 

Now, as far as changing them or getting to the lights.... I'm either going to ask someone local to meet somewhere and do this or head to the dealership and have them do it. I'm completely not technical when it comes to dinking with cars so I suppose any help is appreciated.

 

Let me know if that's a good deal guys.

 

-a-

[TSiWRX]

The deal's not bad at all, but I'm actually also starting to hear of early bulb failures with Osram SilverStars, not just with Sylvanias.

 

Distressing, to be sure, but again, this is only what I can report - my personal experience, "even" with "just" the Sylvanias, has been superior...and I've had multiple sets for multiple vehicles. I have not had personal experience with Osram.

 

Still, overall, the Osram SilverStars seem to get the nod over the Sylvanias for bulb longevity. Despite the current reports cropping up, I think that you'd still stand a better chance with the Osrams.

 

In any case.....

 

Getting to the headlight bulbs is *extremely* easy, and I recommend that you install these lights, first.

 

The driver's side only requires that you un-do the big protective plastic cup/cover - which screws on and off, just like a big jar lid.

 

Once this lid is removed, you can then easily unplug the harness going into the bulb. This is the same as unplugging a power cord from your household wall-outlet. Grab it by the base, not by the wires, and pull. Once the harness is disconnected from the bulb, you'll be able to see two "spades," that's the beginning of the actual light bulb/lamp assembly, viewed from the rear. Across these spades, you'll see a small-diameter wire bar running across the entire lamp base. Examine this retainer bar for a bit, and you'll see that one end is a pivot, and the other is engaged into a "hook" built into the opposite side. This is how the retainer bar keeps your headlamp bulb in-place. Simply depress the bar near the hooked end to disengage it. Once the bar is moved out of the way, the bulb will fall free.

 

Now, take your new bulb - careful in handling it, DO NOT touch the actual bulb glass! - and fit the bulb end into the opening. Then, start rotating it so that the base, which is cut into distinctive notches, fit with the notches cut into the base of the headlamp reflector housing. There's only one way for the components to fit together, so just keep rotating until the bulb's base "pops in." Once you're there, all you have to do is to re-engage the retainer clip, plug the harness back, and go into the vehicle to check that the light turns-on properly. Finally, after the check, put your weather-shield cup back in-place.

 

For the passenger's side, you'll want to remove your intake "ram-air scoop" - which is that part of your intake that goes from just above your front grill, and feeds into the intake box. This can again be *easily* achieved by simply removing the two Pop-It screws that can be seen on the front lip of this intake device. Once the "ram" is removed, you'll again easily see the screw-on weather protector cup on this side of the vehicle, repeat the procedure, as above, for this light, replacing the "ram," of course, as your last step.

 

 

With the fog-light assembly, once you get "inside," replacing the bulb itself is much the same procedure - i.e. pull the harness plug, disengage the retainer clip, remove bulb, replace bulb and rotate to orient, re-engage retainer, plug-back the harness, check for illumination.

 

However, getting to the fog bulbs is different from getting to the headlamps:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15343&highlight=fog

 

This walk-through details Round Boy's method.

 

In post number 7 of that thread, I cite reference to my earlier post detailing how to go about this from underneath the car, without having to remove the trim pieces, and *only* having to reflect the aero/splash under-tray. With my method, jacking up the vehicle is optional, as, even parked on level ground, you should still easily be able to reach-in and access the bulbs.

 

Best of luck!

[RedVR6]

Lurker chiming in. I have ordered from Powerbulbs several times over the past 8 years for my VW (car to be discussed at a later date ) and am currently running the Osram SS's in my E-code headlights (H4) and they are great. I have not had must issue as far as longevity either (a lot of night driving here).

 

I also have been using Osram All Season H3's in my foglights for years with excellent results as well.

 

Shipping...takes about a week from the UK. Like TSI+WRX said...don't touch the bulbs! If you do...wipe them off with alcohol and a cotton ball or the like before plugging them in.

[highwaydrifter]

why not the PIAA?

[SWP-LegacyGT]

The deal's not bad at all, but I'm actually also starting to hear of early bulb failures with Osram SilverStars, not just with Sylvanias.

 

Distressing, to be sure, but again, this is only what I can report - my personal experience, "even" with "just" the Sylvanias, has been superior...and I've had multiple sets for multiple vehicles. I have not had personal experience with Osram.

 

Still, overall, the Osram SilverStars seem to get the nod over the Sylvanias for bulb longevity. Despite the current reports cropping up, I think that you'd still stand a better chance with the Osrams.

 

In any case.....

 

Getting to the headlight bulbs is *extremely* easy, and I recommend that you install these lights, first.

 

The driver's side only requires that you un-do the big protective plastic cup/cover - which screws on and off, just like a big jar lid.

 

Once this lid is removed, you can then easily unplug the harness going into the bulb. This is the same as unplugging a power cord from your household wall-outlet. Grab it by the base, not by the wires, and pull. Once the harness is disconnected from the bulb, you'll be able to see two "spades," that's the beginning of the actual light bulb/lamp assembly, viewed from the rear. Across these spades, you'll see a small-diameter wire bar running across the entire lamp base. Examine this retainer bar for a bit, and you'll see that one end is a pivot, and the other is engaged into a "hook" built into the opposite side. This is how the retainer bar keeps your headlamp bulb in-place. Simply depress the bar near the hooked end to disengage it. Once the bar is moved out of the way, the bulb will fall free.

 

Now, take your new bulb - careful in handling it, DO NOT touch the actual bulb glass! - and fit the bulb end into the opening. Then, start rotating it so that the base, which is cut into distinctive notches, fit with the notches cut into the base of the headlamp reflector housing. There's only one way for the components to fit together, so just keep rotating until the bulb's base "pops in." Once you're there, all you have to do is to re-engage the retainer clip, plug the harness back, and go into the vehicle to check that the light turns-on properly. Finally, after the check, put your weather-shield cup back in-place.

 

For the passenger's side, you'll want to remove your intake "ram-air scoop" - which is that part of your intake that goes from just above your front grill, and feeds into the intake box. This can again be *easily* achieved by simply removing the two Pop-It screws that can be seen on the front lip of this intake device. Once the "ram" is removed, you'll again easily see the screw-on weather protector cup on this side of the vehicle, repeat the procedure, as above, for this light, replacing the "ram," of course, as your last step.

 

 

With the fog-light assembly, once you get "inside," replacing the bulb itself is much the same procedure - i.e. pull the harness plug, disengage the retainer clip, remove bulb, replace bulb and rotate to orient, re-engage retainer, plug-back the harness, check for illumination.

 

However, getting to the fog bulbs is different from getting to the headlamps:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15343&highlight=fog

 

This walk-through details Round Boy's method.

 

In post number 7 of that thread, I cite reference to my earlier post detailing how to go about this from underneath the car, without having to remove the trim pieces, and *only* having to reflect the aero/splash under-tray. With my method, jacking up the vehicle is optional, as, even parked on level ground, you should still easily be able to reach-in and access the bulbs.

 

Best of luck!

 

Well it sounds like the headlamps are easy to get the bulbs on and off, the fogs worry me a bit. That being said though, it's mainly the fogs I want replaced anyways, so I'm thinking I may find some local help for getting those installed.

[SWP-LegacyGT]

why not the PIAA?

 

PIAA's are overpriced and burnout 2x as fast. Just my experience with them.

[HansGT]

your ordering from the UK?