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Timothy.B's - 2011 3.6R Limited - Build Thread


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  • 3 weeks later...

WELL gang. I finally installed the suspension. Compressing the front springs was a fun experience, I tell ya.

 

I went with the Subaru Group N top hats. For the cost I didn't see why not. $150 for the front and $140 for the rears. These are higher durometer rubber vs OEM.

 

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This would have been done a few weeks sooner but RockAuto was nice and sent me some dust covers, bump stops and front upper spring seats that weren't correct. I'd like to thank GTeaser again for the help. The install itself was actually pretty easy. I did the front struts myself, just loosened up all the nuts at the top but one and supported the arm on a piece of wood. Slide right out.

 

I didn't mark the camber so I put both front wheels at full positive camber. I just drove two miles to the alignment shop so no biggie. They were both close to 0 camber. Per GTeasers recommendation I'm gonna go back in a few weeks to get the alignment checked and have them do zero toe in the rear and slight camber for the front.

 

The rear installation was a pain in the arse. Luckily I had a hand when doing it. Lots of prying and pulling to get the shocks bolts to come out and go back in. I had a busted bolt on the rear sway bar bracket so I've been swaybar-less for a few weeks. I drilled out last night and installed CKE's custom rear sway bushings.

 

It's only been a week so after breaking them in a bit, I'm at 1/4 turn front and rear. Getting a feel for it. It's sorta odd because I almost feel like the bumps in the road are less harsh. Haven't gotten to take many corners but it's much better from before. Really happy with the setup so far. Seems the rear end needs some bracing to make it more acceptable. I have the Perrin Rear Subframe inserts to install too. Also just saw the subframe bracing that the newer Sport models get so might try that out in the near future, along with a rear stabilizer bar. She looks good with the slight drop as well.

 

QdbMIyf.jpg

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  • 4 months later...

Funny I'm just now seeing this. Did the Konis about the same time as you. The rears were definitely a pain.. I ended up grabbing a short piece of wood, putting pressure on the strut so it would go inward past the fender lining bump it was hitting while using my foot to push down on the RCA. I know, I know.. I probably shouldn't have been putting that much downward pressure on the RCA.. but hot d**m it worked :lol:

 

Any reason you chose to use different wrap for the trim vs grille?

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Funny I'm just now seeing this. Did the Konis about the same time as you. The rears were definitely a pain.. I ended up grabbing a short piece of wood, putting pressure on the strut so it would go inward past the fender lining bump it was hitting while using my foot to push down on the RCA. I know, I know.. I probably shouldn't have been putting that much downward pressure on the RCA.. but hot d**m it worked :lol:

 

It is a lot easier if you just unbolt the sway bar link and outboard side of the lower control arm.

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  • 4 weeks later...

iarDYx8.jpg

 

Here's a better pic of the window trim and the wheel fitment with Eibachs. It settled a little more since.

 

 

Any reason you chose to use different wrap for the trim vs grille?

 

Mostly because when I looked at the middle window pillars, they looked like a pain to wrap, so the flat black matched better I think. I have thought a few times that color matched black vinyl might look better.

 

It is a lot easier if you just unbolt the sway bar link and outboard side of the lower control arm.

 

He probably did. I did how you suggested and struggled getting the bolts lined up right. I feared whacking the bolt in with a hammer that it might damage something :lol:

 

UPDATE TIME:

 

The Koni's have been great. I can't recall now but I think I'm at 1.5F and 1.25R. I've had 4 adults in the car, including myself on a 45 minute trip and no one griped about the ride quality so it must be a win. Planning still for a 22mm adjustable rear sway eventually.

 

On to other things. My house has consumed my money and my part of my soul. Spent $350 on a nice Rigid saw and went to work on hanging crown molding around the entire house. It's been a 3 month endeavor. 4 Bedrooms, Kitchen, Dining, Hallways, Living Room and Downstairs master bedroom.

 

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Half the house is sanded and painted. Still have the other half to fill holes, sand and paint. Then I'm moving on to window trim on all the windows, then laminate flooring in kitchen/dining/hallway. After that it'll be door trim and baseboards, stained oak doors and maybe then I'll finally relax.

 

CAR STUFF

 

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Got my cmod back today from the shop. Just need to attach the badge. Install was a bit of a pain but it works well enough. Gonna do some lower mesh too when I get some more.

 

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Lastly, Jones Turbine mufflers and Quad burned tips. Yes, I'm hacking up the bumper to fit them. It's already got a good crack from...I don't wanna talk about it. I plan on replacing it eventually along with the front. Good news, Ohio will no longer need a front plate soon so I can get a nice new front bumper without holes in it next year. Those white specs you see is road rash :|

 

oHI2Bum.jpg

 

Trying my luck on these Jones mufflers and seeing how they sound. I've decided to hold off on the whole header-back exhaust and pay off the Legacy.

 

A few months following I'm gonna get a toy car that's not my daily to play with. Future plans for the Legacy is some light window tint, sound deadening in the doors at the very least and a new double din head unit.

 

I think that sums it up.

Edited by Timothy.B
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On to other things. My house has consumed my money and my part of my soul.

 

Getting ready to do that with my house/duplex. We have been there almost 11 years, and it has the same carpet (with 2 dogs and 2 cats). What kind of flooring you going with?

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Getting ready to do that with my house/duplex. We have been there almost 11 years, and it has the same carpet (with 2 dogs and 2 cats). What kind of flooring you going with?

 

Oh God change that out.

 

I think we've settled for Pergo laminate. Hard finding an image of installed floor but it looks like this.

1697976132_ScreenShot2018-05-23at4_52.49PM(1).png.a63fb0ad6f7afc0ccef2c26aac5785bd.png

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That click-lock flooring isn't too bad to install, aside from the fact that you're kneeling and bent over all day doing it. Pretty much all you need tool-wise is a utility knife (score and snap to length) and a rubber mallet, maybe pliers and/or a jigsaw if you have to cut out any really funky shapes. I helped a friend install that stuff on the entire first floor of his house (probably pushing 1000 sq. ft.), and including multiple rooms with closets and such, it took 3 people about a day and a half. I think there was as much time spent on actually laying the flooring as there was on chiseling out the tile in the foyer.
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  • 1 month later...

Got the burnt tips on with the Jones Turbine mufflers. I didn't think I'd gain anything performance wise but she definitely feels peppier. Could be because those stock mufflers are friggin heavy. Decided that keeping the stock resonator on isn't helping much with sound level so we're cutting it out tomorrow and welding in a 24" Dynomax resonator (actual length is 18"). But the sound is pretty nice at this point, albeit a bit droney at 2000-2500 RPM. She pops when letting off the gas, and the sound is quite unique. It's like a boxer rumble that drums faster, lol. I'll get the res in, give it a week to break in and post a video. I dig the look of these tips, though.

 

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  • 1 month later...

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XU4HrRgiA8A]2011 Subaru Legacy 3.6R - Jones Turbine Mufflers - YouTube[/ame]

 

I had a nice long video of me driving the other day with the GoPro and of course it decided to not record any audio. I don't even know why. I tested a second video and audio worked fine. So this'll have to do for now.

 

The Dynomax helped open up the sound a bit and helped with drone for the most part. It does get a bit noisey at 2500 but I've been living with it so far. She's pretty quiet overall. With the windows up the sound is less droney and you hear a nice burble in the lower revs. I do have an odd whistle sound under heavy load sometimes. I'm not quiet sure if maybe I still have a small leak. I need to get that checked. My mid flange busted open after the resonator install. I think the weight from cutting it lose busted it open finally. I had a flex piece added in in place of it.

 

She'll get headers one day. Right now I'm just maintaining an enjoying and spending money on other hobbies. Looking to try and pay it off come spring and save up for a Porsche Boxster S (at least that's the plan right now)

Edited by Timothy.B
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  • 4 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Hello,

 

In you post you mention the HKB MK3 Miniblade Voltage Booster, what was your expereince with it? I am interested in this device because I am currently experiencing charging issues with my Outback 3.6r. Apparently the alternator is not correctly charging the battery due to my VLed LED headlights, fog lights, and high beams. Did the voltage booster eliminate any charging issues you encountered? Was it easy to install? Did you have to disconnect the battery?

 

Thanks,

Jim

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Hello,

 

In you post you mention the HKB MK3 Miniblade Voltage Booster, what was your expereince with it? I am interested in this device because I am currently experiencing charging issues with my Outback 3.6r. Apparently the alternator is not correctly charging the battery due to my VLed LED headlights, fog lights, and high beams. Did the voltage booster eliminate any charging issues you encountered? Was it easy to install? Did you have to disconnect the battery?

 

Thanks,

Jim

 

What is the charging output of your alternator? I have never heard of an alternator not charging the battery correct because of LED bulbs in your lights. The LED's should actually ease the amperage draw on the battery and charging system over conventional halogen bulbs. Do you have an AGM battery? If so, it is not being charged properly by the stock Subaru alternator output setting, thus the need for a voltage booster like the HKB Mk3.

 

I have one in my GT and one in my Lexus GX470. Works great to keep my AGM batteries healthy and easy to install, no need to disconnect the battery. Just replace the factory ALT-S fuse with the HKB Mk3. Below is my video of install on my GT.

 

 

Edited by GTEASER
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Thank you for responding. The battery was replaced in November. I noticed the AC compressor loading down the engine after a short idle time at the railroad station. Using a shortcut I was able to monitor the voltage under the conditions with headlights/foglights/heater/seat heater on on the center dash display. The voltage was ranging between 11.6 and 11.8 variable. Turning off the lights/heaters brought it up to 11.8 to 12 volts. While driving there is no issue with all of the noted items on, running between 13 and 14 volts. The subaru dealership checked the car with Subaru monitor and said the voltage was low. I replaced the HID 35watt lamps/balast with VLed 4500 lumen LED's at 45 watts approx 4.8 amps each. The high beams are the same. However the foglights ar 2400 lumens approx 24 watts @ 2.5 amps each. Link enclosed below. The battery is a NAPA battery at 650 cca. Got in the car one day it would not start, so I was stuck with what was available.

 

https://www.vleds.com/shop-products/led-headlights/d2s/micro-extreme-d2s.html

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Good call! I'll check the ground connections I can access for sure as soon as the rain stops. The battery is likely the best place to start as they are the only connections which have been disconnected. Thank you for you help.
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After the rain stopped yesterday I checked the battery post connections given they were loosened with the battery replacement. Additionally checked the grounds connections I could easily access. I discovered both connections at the battery post were somewhat loose. While I was not able to easily move either one(being careful to not do damage) the nut was somewhat tight on the ground. On the positive post while I was not able to turn the nut with my fingers it was very easily turned with a 6" adjustable wrench. After correctly securing the connections and reviewing the battery voltage things are more in line with where they should be. After several trips 15 to 20 min, the lowest the battery voltage was 11.9 volts and higest at 14.4. With the headlights off and only heat running the voltage was toggling between 12.0 and 12.3 with an ocasional jump to 14.2. Clearly you called that one correct. However I will be purchasing the MK4 with offers a variable selection of voltages. Did you order you MK3 from ebay or the manfacturers site in Australia? How long was the wait? Thanks again for your help!
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After the rain stopped yesterday I checked the battery post connections given they were loosened with the battery replacement. Additionally checked the grounds connections I could easily access. I discovered both connections at the battery post were somewhat loose. While I was not able to easily move either one(being careful to not do damage) the nut was somewhat tight on the ground. On the positive post while I was not able to turn the nut with my fingers it was very easily turned with a 6" adjustable wrench. After correctly securing the connections and reviewing the battery voltage things are more in line with where they should be. After several trips 15 to 20 min, the lowest the battery voltage was 11.9 volts and higest at 14.4. With the headlights off and only heat running the voltage was toggling between 12.0 and 12.3 with an ocasional jump to 14.2. Clearly you called that one correct. However I will be purchasing the MK4 with offers a variable selection of voltages. Did you order you MK3 from ebay or the manfacturers site in Australia? How long was the wait? Thanks again for your help!

 

For future reference, please send PM's or ask these types of questions in a general thread, not someone's build thread.

 

I ordered the MK3 from eBay. Your voltage still seems weird 12.3 and jumping to 14.2, it should be a pretty constant 13.6 regardless of what accessories you're running. I'll bet $50 that the voltage regulator in your alternator is going out. Ordering a voltage booster won't really help you, it will just mask the root issue. Make sure you have healthy equipment before you start adding accessories.

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  • 2 months later...

I just saw you helped someone out on my thread, GTeaser. Great work, haha.

 

Do you have a link to the window trim removal guide? I plan on wrapping the chrome as well. Thanks!

 

Apologies, I haven't been on the forums much since I'm sorta to the end of modding. Mostly just enjoying the car at the moment.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3452299&postcount=101 This is all I had to go off of for removal. It's kind of terrifying I must add. You feel like you're breaking it the whole time taking it off. To be completely honest, I would remove and wrap the top portion and leave the bottom one on and wrap that without removing it. Getting it to fit into all those grooves is a bit of a pain not to mention getting it to wrap around.

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  • 4 months later...
Don't worry, she's still alive! I swapped over to the 2013-2014 headlights today and installed VLED Micro Extreme low beams. I haven't done anything car related this year but finally got a new Canon Rebel T6 and thought I'd take some pics of her in her current shape. Pics are added in at the end of my first post!
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Don't worry, she's still alive! I swapped over to the 2013-2014 headlights today and installed VLED Micro Extreme low beams. I haven't done anything car related this year but finally got a new Canon Rebel T6 and thought I'd take some pics of her in her current shape. Pics are added in at the end of my first post!

 

I'm pretty sure I saw your post on Facebook as well. Your car looks awesome!

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