Timothy.B's - 2011 3.6R Limited - Build Thread

[Timothy.B]

So after doing a intake pressurized test, seems I've got a leak around the EGR somewhere. Gonna start with re-torquing them and if no luck, changing the gaskets.

[Perscitus]

Sounds like a plan. If you're feeling adventureous... You can also pickup a Tribeca or older-gen 3.0R block off plate (its actually an OE part), ask Ed to zero out the EGR steps table, see if there are any EGR timing additive tables to adjust too and potentially turn off a few DTCs and enjoy knock-free (or mostly free) cruise RPM/Load, lower manifold temps, better Bank 1/2 agreement and better mid-range TQ, all off-road only of course. Edited December 12, 2017 by Perscitus

[Timothy.B]

Sounds like a plan. If you're feeling adventureous... You can also pickup a Tribeca or older-gen 3.0R block off plate (its actually an OE part), ask Ed to zero out the EGR steps table, see if there are any EGR timing additive tables to adjust too and potentially turn off a few DTCs and enjoy knock-free (or mostly free) cruise RPM/Load, lower manifold temps, better Bank 1/2 agreement and better mid-range TQ, all off-road only of course.

 

Buddy from the XRT Chatty still has a few spare gaskets AND a block off plate. If re-torque doesn't fix it maybe I'll try that. I wonder if this was the cause of my increase of exhaust noise? The shop couldn't find leaks anywhere. The car is heading leaner, been having ping issues and engine load not being where it used to be. Thought maybe the fact that my PCV tube was missing clamps was why at first.

 

Car's running happy in spite of all this. Can't wait to have her in tip-top shape again.

[Perscitus]

The rabbit hole is bottomless. The PCV hose didn't come with clamp from the factory

and sadly no good vaccuum hose diagram exists for the H6s to serve as a guide.

 

MAP sensor vac hoses and filter, intake vac hose, PCV hose, EGR vac hose,

brake booster vac hoses, vac hoses on the back of the manifold near the throttle body dbw/tps motor housing.

 

If you're still on the OE PCV, get a new one while at it, cheap and 5 minutes to swap out.

[Timothy.B]

The rabbit hole is bottomless. The PCV hose didn't come with clamp from the factory

and sadly no good vaccuum hose diagram exists for the H6s to serve as a guide.

 

MAP sensor vac hoses and filter, intake vac hose, PCV hose, EGR vac hose,

brake booster vac hoses, vac hoses on the back of the manifold near the throttle body dbw/tps motor housing.

 

If you're still on the OE PCV, get a new one while at it, cheap and 5 minutes to swap out.

 

Sounds like a plan, Stan. I've got a pile of bushings and bushing inserts to install but the weather is no longer on my side. Highs of 25 this week. Anxious to get my HID's in too but we all know that's not a 5 minute job.

[nads]

Brake boosters can cause a vacuum leaks too. Just went through this with my dad's efi 5.0 swap in to an 82' GT. We replaced everything from the ECU to any and everything that can effect the idle. We'd think we got it and it would come back. The other day he drove up and I was standing outside and as soon as he hit the brakes the idle would surge, let of the brake and it would smooth out. Bad Booster.

 

Got the 26mm bushing yesterday. Hopefully will install them over Christmas shutdown.

[Timothy.B]

Let me know how you like those. I'm probably just gonna wait for a weird warm winter day to get stuff done. I did get my LED lights in though!

 

 

 

 

 

Low beams will match the U-Bar light temp once I get HID's in.

 

I have a trunk one I put in as well but...tis a messy place. We don't go there.

 

Most of them we're the highest Lumens I could get from VLEDs. I really like the new puddle lights.

[MattyBows]

Hey, so I'm wondering about the perrin steering dampener you have? Is it straight forward easy to install/ and does it make a difference worth the trouble?

Also, I've been seeing a lot of the brake master cylinder braces as good mods to do for these. I'm wondering why and what it even does? Thanks

[GTEASER]

Hey, so I'm wondering about the perrin steering dampener you have? Is it straight forward easy to install/ and does it make a difference worth the trouble?

Also, I've been seeing a lot of the brake master cylinder braces as good mods to do for these. I'm wondering why and what it even does? Thanks

 

Yes, the steering damper lockdown is well worth the small investment. It improves steering response significantly, assuming you have decent tires and not something with a tall squishy sidewall. The install is fairly easy and you can view the install video on Perrin's website.

 

Why do you need a master cylinder brace?

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f3mjEa_GjiQ]Do Brake Master Cylinder Stoppers do anything? - YouTube[/ame]

 

RikGT on here is the only one that makes one for our USDM LHD cars.

[Timothy.B]

The dampener is pretty simple. You loosen (don't completely remove) the two bolts on the steering joint. I'd grease up the lockdown kit, I hear it helps with the pieces sliding together easier. Just the parts that fit between the metal. You squeeze the pieces together with a longer bolt. Then use some thread locker for the shorter, second bolt and tighten it up. Then make sure you re-torque the steering joint bolts on the top and bottom.

 

The master cylinder brace is a decent improvement. Keeps the pedal from flexing at the very bottom. It's not too much either. You have to contact Luis on the Fifth Gen Legacy group on Facebook. You can only be added to it by a member though.

 

Edit: GTeaser, get out of my thread

 

RikGT is Luis' profile I guess. I really like the MCB.

Edited December 15, 2017 by Timothy.B

[cww516]

I saw "dampener" and immediately planned to post "don't forget to grease it first!"

 

Really does make it way easier.

[Timothy.B]

I'm a few hundred miles into an oil consumption test right now. I'll update what they say when it's finished. With 5w40 Motul, I went through 3.5qts in 5500 miles. The service manager didn't seem to think there'd be an issue with replacing the short block, especially since I'm still under warranty for a few more months or until 100k miles.

 

Plans to do before the year end:

 

Install Koni's/Eibach Lowering Springs

Relocate Front Plate

Remove OEM Splash Guards

Install Side Skirt Extensions

CMOD Mesh grill paint matched with lower mesh insert

Tint? Would like some tint.

 

Full exhaust will probably have to be next year. Maybe a birthday present to myself.

[coco26]

Be ready with some cleaning and buffing supplies when you take your splash guards off. Not only is it filthy behind there, but there will be a white trace where the edges were. Mine looked a lot better after a good wax on-wax off, but there's still a white primer ring where they used to be.

[Falcor]

Be ready with some cleaning and buffing supplies when you take your splash guards off. Not only is it filthy behind there, but there will be a white trace where the edges were. Mine looked a lot better after a good wax on-wax off, but there's still a white primer ring where they used to be.

 

It's the same behind the fender flares on the Outback. I ended up cleaning behind all 4 when I installed the Rallyarmor flaps.

[Timothy.B]

Removed the plastidip and wrapped with gloss black vinyl. Can hardly tell that it's not factory color painted.

 

 

[Timothy.B]

So quick update.

 

For the oil consumption test they used conventional 5w30 (have to check but I think it's Castrol GTX)

 

Now, I checked the oil at 1000 miles and it was at F. I was starting to think that they purposely overfilled it. Well, at 1600 miles. It was still full. I just checked again at 2100 miles. It's just barely moved. The only conclusion I can draw is, some EZ36's we're built with tighter tolerances and some people can run synthetic without having issues. I myself was going through a good quart and a half minimum, every 3000 miles or so. I'm thinking of trying semi-synthetic 10w40 Liqui Moly to see how much I burn with that. I recall when I got the car that the tech suggested running a semi-synth oil mix in these engines. I've got another month before I need to change the oil so we will see.

 

Secondly, went to the dealership and they're gonna replace the EGR gaskets under warranty. I was gonna wait to see if they'd change the shortblock first before bringing it up. So that's gonna be taken care of finally. Also, I went in for them to check out a squeal sound I was getting. I was pretty sure it was my serpentine tensioner pulley but turns out it was actually my torque converter? I never did get to talk to the tech but I did have suspicions a few times that something was wrong with my TC. I would get a shuddering under heavy load and low RPM. As well as lately, I've been noticing the car stumbling when slowing down to a slow speed then getting back on the throttle. I kinda just ruled that out as the intake leak causing a bog.

 

I used to think the warranties we're a gimmick but now I'm glad I forked out for the 100k mile or 8 year coverage. I don't want to know what a new TC with labor costs.

 

I'm gonna be happy when the cars in top shape again. Still back and forth on going down the rabbit hole that is raptor headers (or custom headers) and full exhaust. OR using that cash towards a second car sooner, rather than later. Really feeling like a second Subaru (something cheap, turbo and manual to play around with).

[stewdogg]

Man, it's nice to get all that dealt with under warranty, especially the torque converter!

 

I have never owned a new enough vehicle to run full synthetic oil. I always find it leaks more and usually has more engine noise too. I run 20% Lucas oil stabilizer with conventional oil to deal with the heat.

[Timothy.B]

Yeah, when I got it at 35k, I opted for the 100k or 8 year warranty. It's gonna be up soon. They replaced my rear differential recently too. I'll never go without a warranty after this. Unless it's a cheap car that I only spend a few g's on.

 

It's pretty uncommon that anyone has oil consumption issues on the 3.6 so for me to be going through much seemed odd. At least I can easily remedy it with different oil. I may try that Lucas stuff. A member of our tuning group uses it in his OBXT I believe. We'll see how the Liqui does.

 

I've been on my stock ROM for a good couple of weeks now. I kinda lost count. I can't wait to get this stuff sorted and un-grandmamobile it again.

[FLlegacy]

Yeah, when I got it at 35k, I opted for the 100k or 8 year warranty. It's gonna be up soon. They replaced my rear differential recently too. I'll never go without a warranty after this. Unless it's a cheap car that I only spend a few g's on.

 

It's pretty uncommon that anyone has oil consumption issues on the 3.6 so for me to be going through much seemed odd. At least I can easily remedy it with different oil. I may try that Lucas stuff. A member of our tuning group uses it in his OBXT I believe. We'll see how the Liqui does.

 

I've been on my stock ROM for a good couple of weeks now. I kinda lost count. I can't wait to get this stuff sorted and un-grandmamobile it again.

 

Oil consumption on the 3.6 isn't really that uncommon, there was probably a manufacturing change to meet fuel efficiency standards somewhere along the line. More piston clearance, low friction rings, lightweight oil...it all adds up. I would be hesitant to use a 40wt on the H6 because of the chain tensioners being in the oiling system. You would be better off finding a 30wt oil that doesn't shear with age, or increasing your oil change frequency.

[Timothy.B]

Hmm, I'll look about. I'll have to find a new OCI with some sort of semi or regular conventional oil. I was able to get around 6k miles per change on most full synthetics. Subaru does list 10w40 being an option for oil. 5w30 is just recommended.

 

Haven't heard back about the parts yet from the dealer. I bet sometime early next week I will. The suspension is showing it's age. Especially when going over bumps on the highway.

[FLlegacy]

Hmm, I'll look about. I'll have to find a new OCI with some sort of semi or regular conventional oil. I was able to get around 6k miles per change on most full synthetics. Subaru does list 10w40 being an option for oil. 5w30 is just recommended.

 

Haven't heard back about the parts yet from the dealer. I bet sometime early next week I will. The suspension is showing it's age. Especially when going over bumps on the highway.

 

I would rather burn some oil than risk the timing chain loosing slack from a thicker oil. And our tribeca has a whole lot more miles on it than your legacy.

[Timothy.B]

I'll agree with you on that. I saw what happened to the gf's Jetta. They just surpassed the OCI a bit too much early on and over time, the timing chain stretched. It adjusted timing for as long as it could until it destroyed some valves.

[Timothy.B]

So minor update. Checked oil level again at 3300 miles. It's only half way between F and L. What kind of sorcery is this?! I also changed out the PCV valve. Upon inspection, old one seemed to work fine. Didn't move as freely as the new one though. I wish I burned this little with the full synthetic. I'm just gonna have to find the best of both worlds.

 

I have some good news. Ordered parts to build the Koni/Eibachs. Group N top mounts along with the SPC camber bolts for the front. KYB's are in the garage. Finishing up house stuff that's filled the garage so I can start organized my mess and make it a car workable area.

[GTEASER]

Skip those camber bolts. You don't need them. The stock bolts are more stout and offer plenty if adjustment range.

[Timothy.B]

I'll use the stock ones but I know of a person or two who had issues getting the front within spec so I'd rather have them just in case.

 

 

This is my pile of crap to do. I'm changing the oil tomorrow most likely so I'll probably get these bushings on. The sway bar ones. If I'm still up to it, the rear differential ones as well. The diff was just out not too long ago because of the replacement so shouldn't give me much hassle.