quick4dr Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Well... As the title states, my short block research and purchasing has begun. likely will be IAG Stage 2 block Clean and pocket my heads, no valve work or cams bolt her all together with ARP hardware top her off with current: IAG deletes IAG rails ID 1000's Blouch 1.5xtr 10cm/3in Grimmspeed EBCS Killer Bee style manifold EWG tial 38mm Catless DP Custom Catback goal is to spin her to about 22psi perhaps 375whp 350wtq would like to go speed density and maybe a e85 map for giggles your thoughts or comments please... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 No input? thanks fellas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BagRidersJohn Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 (edited) Sounds like you've got things pretty well under control, and I think 375whp is a bit on the low end for that turbo/wg setup. I made 363whp/wtq with an 18g on my 06 WRX, internally gated, OEM lines/rails with a Walbro 255 and ID1000's (fueling was not the ceiling though). I've basically got the same setup now in my WRX now (same turbo, HKS EL manifold, but no EWG) and tuner (Bren in MA) says 420 on 93 is totally reasonable. I've got a built SB, stock heads, ported intake/exhaust and an 04 STI 6MT in that car. Suggestions? A good AOS is IMO one of the best things you can do to protect your investment, hell we have enough blowby at stock power levels to justify one. If the car sees winter driving I'd go for one with provisions to circulate coolant around the can such as Crawford or IAG. I've heard from various tuners that Company23's newer EBCS supposedly eliminates WG flutter you typically get from EBCS. Maybe you want to consider that, see what your tuner says. Don't know what else you've got for mods, but with that size of turbo you'll start to see benefits from a DIY gasket match on the cylinder heads (both sides) and porting the manifold/throttle body. Pretty sure IAG TGV's are machined to be gasket matched but honestly I'm not sure. (edit: forgot about our plastic manifolds, disregard porting). If you're rockin a 5spd I wouldn't expect it to last too long with that setup. Mine went through 3rd in my WRX at the aforementioned whp/wtq just driving down the road like a normal person. I was maybe 20% on the throttle when 3rd gear went kablunkachunkaclankalanky. In my experience, fitting a 3" inlet in stock location is about -10 on the fun scale. I've got some absolutely massive 17mm spacers on my WRX and its still a tight fit. You'll want to chop off the little nubbins on the underside of the runners that the engine harness/OEM lines bolt to. I have a 3" perrin inlet and its still squished in some areas despite me shaving my entire intake manifold. What I did was fit the TGV runners and fuel lines, get the turbo inlet on there, then bolted on the intake manifold last with everything underneath it all positioned where it best fit. (edit: forgot our legacy's have plastic manifolds. no idea if that makes the 3" inlet fit better, or worse ¯\_(ツ)_/¯) Why do you want to go speed density? If this is a 4 season car I'd stick with MAF, personally. If you were rotating or aiming for 500+ whp then SD would be better to consider again, in my opinion. Edited January 26, 2017 by BagRidersJohn legacys have plastic intake manifolds My 2007 specB (full undercarriage & drivetrain refinish, every nut and bolt replaced, full engine rebuild/restore, glass-out respray, air ride, wide body, and more! All done by me, at home!) Instagram: @bagriders_john for more Subarus (and also my wife and cat) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 I do have a IAG AOS race set up currently and it will be transferred to new motor. The 3in inlet fits solid on current set up, AZP worked magic there! this is a 5eat car, so that's why my numbers don't jive with most numbers out there on 5spd/ 6spd cars. also current 350/323 numbers are at 19psi Mikey and I kept her there to preserve her for an extra years DD. with built block, id imagine I can spin her to 24-25 speed density just intrigues me, it is a 4 season car however by next winter ill have a new daily for my business. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 You might need to address the weak 5eat before you damage it to much. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share Posted February 1, 2017 Im already equipt with climberD valvebody, the diff bushing are on my shelf. and as of now I have no shifting issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 Personally I'd stick to putting in a quart of oil every 1,000 miles. That's not really a reason to rebuild. If on the other hand you want to have more power that's a different question. It was your thread title that threw me off the intent of the thread. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 I thought about just feeding her oil, however I don't want to be left with a more expensive build down the road. In my most recent driving oil consumption has increased dramatically so I know I must have lost a ring somewhere, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 For a DD you might rethink a pure speed density tune. A hybrid MAF/Speed density would probably be better. The problem with a pure speed density tune on a DD, drag car, autocrosser, is the temp sensor can get heat soaked while sitting still. That causes it to improperly read the IAT as higher than it really is, the ECU compensates for high temp (less mass) intake air, and the result is an over lean AFR that could cause damage. I run a pure speed density on my road race car because by the time I hammer the throttle the airflow has normalized the IAT sensor. But even then it's strongly suggested not to mount the IAT sensor in the aluminum intake manifold where it can get heat soaked. It's better to mount it in a bung in the cool side intake track just before the throttle. The thin aluminum intake tract joiners hold much less thermal mass. A hybrid MAF/SD tune resolves that issue. Why don't I run a hybrid? I did on the LGT Wagon race car, but not on the new STI. Only because if I get a boost leak in a race the engine will still run on a SD tune, though at less boost. With the hybrid tune once the MAF gets out of whack from a boost leak the ECU shuts the engine down pretty quickly. I've lost/DNF two races when that happened, one on the last lap. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 THE BUILD WILL BE AS FOLLOWS: IAG Stage 2 block Factory Heads Blouch 1.5xtr 3in/ 10cm Grimmspeed EWG w/ Tial 38mm VTA 200Octane; Killer Bee style manifold Catless DP, single exit 3in CB IAG TGV Deletes IAG fuel system w/ Aero FPR ID1000's Walbro pump Grimmspeed CAI RacersX FMIC IAG AOS Race ClimberD Valvebody Grimmspeed EBCS Perrin 3in inlet ARP hardware goal is 23psi Should I be looking into anything else? is a head port worth it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BagRidersJohn Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 THE BUILD WILL BE AS FOLLOWS: IAG Stage 2 block Factory Heads Blouch 1.5xtr 3in/ 10cm Grimmspeed EWG w/ Tial 38mm VTA 200Octane; Killer Bee style manifold Catless DP, single exit 3in CB IAG TGV Deletes IAG fuel system w/ Aero FPR ID1000's Walbro pump Grimmspeed CAI RacersX FMIC IAG AOS Race ClimberD Valvebody Grimmspeed EBCS Perrin 3in inlet ARP hardware goal is 23psi Should I be looking into anything else? is a head port worth it? I've more or less got the exact same stuff on my WRX Gasket matching the ports on the heads couldn't hurt Maybe some phenolic spacers too? My 2007 specB (full undercarriage & drivetrain refinish, every nut and bolt replaced, full engine rebuild/restore, glass-out respray, air ride, wide body, and more! All done by me, at home!) Instagram: @bagriders_john for more Subarus (and also my wife and cat) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 I just did a 3" inlet and would never do it in the stock location again. If you go 3", then go rotated. +1 on phenolic spacers. IAG. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BagRidersJohn Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 I just did a 3" inlet and would never do it in the stock location again. If you go 3", then go rotated. +1 on phenolic spacers. IAG. Seriously, 3" inlet in stock location sucks! I wish I had gone rotated but at least the Dom1.5 fits decently in the stock location unlike other "big-ish stock location" turbos... the inlet however, not so much. In my WRX I've shaved the entire manifold, re-routed everything and re-plumbed all sorts of stuff, so I have the benefit of fitting everything below the IM and just bolting the IM to the TGVs. Even with absolutely massive 17mm spacers, the 3" inlet is crushed in places by the manifold or flanges, especially the flange closest to the compressor inlet. One day I might pick up a JDM manifold to alleviate this issue, but I just don't want to go through the hassle of shaving it all over again A common misunderstanding is that the only reason to "go rotated" is in order to run a gigantic turbo. There are plenty of benefits to rotating the turbo aside from strictly size of inlet and exhaust housing (though undeniably this is the main reason if your only goal is big numbers on the dyno). When deciding to go the "fully custom" rotated route, you have no restrictions on flange choices (V-band everything!), you have more turbo options, everything is easier to access and work on (this is a huge benefit alone especially for race-oriented builds) and fitting an EWG especially when it recirculates to the exhaust stream is becomes much easier as well. Most builds you see with rotated setups do indeed have a huge turbo but that is far from the only reason to rotate. I've seen some dudes with a "less than enormous" rotated turbo get flamed and I just don't get it. Go to a hill climb or race someday and check out some Subarus there-- I guarantee you'll see a few rotated setups with turbos that would fit in the stock location (size wise) and these cars are purpose built to a much larger degree than 99% of the modified subies you see on the street. My 2007 specB (full undercarriage & drivetrain refinish, every nut and bolt replaced, full engine rebuild/restore, glass-out respray, air ride, wide body, and more! All done by me, at home!) Instagram: @bagriders_john for more Subarus (and also my wife and cat) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 funny thing is my 3in inlet fits great currently, I must Credit AZP and the team with the perfect magic touch there, I do run a 3mm spacer inlet isn't crushed at all. It is a WRX inlet, all my lines are routed cleanly. to go rotated id have to fabricate new intercooler piping and im not looking to do that. likely will gasket match the heads, possible pocket port. with IAG block stage II, gaskets, fluids, tune (hi boost, low boost, and eco) $5,700. goal is to be good for WBM this june... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 I think 375whp is a bit on the low end for that turbo/wg setup. I made 363whp/wtq with an 18g on my 06 WRX, internally gated, OEM lines/rails with a Walbro 255 and ID1000's (fueling was not the ceiling though). I've basically got the same setup now in my WRX now (same turbo, HKS EL manifold, but no EWG) and tuner (Bren in MA) says 420 on 93 is totally reasonable. 420 on 93 out of an 18g?! I see you are talking "brenHP" which are measured differently. A legit 375 is not low at all, IMO. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BagRidersJohn Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 420 on 93 out of an 18g?! I see you are talking "brenHP" which are measured differently. A legit 375 is not low at all, IMO. OP has a Dom1.5 10cm which is capable of 400+. My 2007 specB (full undercarriage & drivetrain refinish, every nut and bolt replaced, full engine rebuild/restore, glass-out respray, air ride, wide body, and more! All done by me, at home!) Instagram: @bagriders_john for more Subarus (and also my wife and cat) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 I read it as you were saying an 18g was going to make 420 on 93. But, even quick's setup won't make a legit 420 to the wheels on 93. Those are inflated numbers, IMO. On ethanol, 420 is doable. But on pump, 375 is more like it. However, if he went out and ran low 11's @ over 120MPH, I would believe the 420 on pump. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 Over all numbers aint my goal, not trying to set records or break axles. just looking for a very unique fun street set up, that can romp on people who have spent way more. as she sits now she is exactly how I want her to be, but having a supported block I will turn it up just a tad from 19 to 23/24 and that should be a riot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 THE BUILD WILL BE AS FOLLOWS: IAG Stage 2 block Factory Heads Blouch 1.5xtr 3in/ 10cm Grimmspeed EWG w/ Tial 38mm VTA 200Octane; Killer Bee style manifold Catless DP, single exit 3in CB IAG TGV Deletes IAG fuel system w/ Aero FPR ID1000's Walbro pump Grimmspeed CAI RacersX FMIC IAG AOS Race ClimberD Valvebody Grimmspeed EBCS Perrin 3in inlet ARP hardware goal is 23psi Should I be looking into anything else? is a head port worth it? Head porting is arguable at that point. The stock heads flow pretty well up to 500HP IMHO. You may want to start to look into your cooling system(koyo or mishimoto). Depends on how long you plan to have your right foot on the go peddle. Maybe also a trans cooler? Do you plan to go to E85? If so, you may want to consider something a little larger than ID1000s. ID1300s? What year is your car? If you are 05/06 - Consider a top feed conversion. You will want to plan for a wideband as well. How's your suspension and brakes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 I've more or less got the exact same stuff on my WRX Gasket matching the ports on the heads couldn't hurt Maybe some phenolic spacers too? +1 on phenolic spacers. IAG. I'm curious why the phenolic spacers would be needed if keeping the plastic intake manifold? I've heard they are not needed and offer little benefit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 Easier to run a 3" Intake tube I think is the biggest reason. Duh... Thank you! I read that entirely too fast and missed that point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 already top feed converted with ID1000's e85 isn't a requirement right now, but maybe down the road after I like the 93 for a while. already running a aluminum rad, with stand alone trans cooler on a Deralle T stat. suspension and brakes are complete, tarmac 1. All whiteline bushings around, all avo bars, hotchkis sways, kartboy links, Porterfield pads, DBA rotors. wideband isn't listed but being completed during the build. Using the Tuning alliance integration kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted December 5, 2017 Author Share Posted December 5, 2017 IAG stage II block is in my living room the build commences after the holidays Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 Boy that took a long time.... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stocklgt Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 (edited) Missed this thread as I started my build in June. No reason for a port and polish on the heads, but I would consider a small cam for usable power over 6000. Im running a kelford 264, and its very streetable and no different than stock cam, but plan to rev to at least 7500 once i tune. Im on top feed 1000s also on my gtx3076r setup, but plan to install my ID 1300s when I spray meth and get the flex fuel kit. Im hoping for 450 on pump with meth, 500 with e85, but i think its wishful thinking. Wish I went with the BCP X500+ or FP Blue. As for $5700, good luck. I was only planning on spending around ~$7000 including labor and my build ended up cresting 5 figures. Edited December 6, 2017 by stocklgt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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