Danbarr98 Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 Hey Guys, I have a 98 2.5L and had a few questions regarding timing and some bolts. First off, does anyone know the dimensions of the torque converter-flex plate bolts? Thanks. Secondly, when I was removing the timing belt I spaced out moving the crank and cams to TDC, would it be ok if I just moved them back to the markings and slapped a new belt on after they've been moved around with no belt on? Thanks again. Also wondering if anyone has a schematic of all the vacuum and small coolant hoses is need to replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 It's ok if you bar the engine over with the belt off, it'll just take a little extra work to get everything lined up again later. Just double check to make sure everything is still lined up after you install the new belt and once you rotate it through a cycle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danbarr98 Posted January 6, 2017 Author Share Posted January 6, 2017 Ok, awesome, thanks man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 I don't know the dimensions of the bolt, but here it is on Subaru Parts: http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__Outback25i-Limited/BOLT/49286232/800208580.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 Oh I guess I misread the description on which bolts they are. I just removed them from my car and I think its a 12mm head and the thread would be M8-1.0. Also it's only like 1/3-1/2 of an inch long, it was really tiny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 Vacuum routing should be on hood. FSM is:https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B6P6dybMMzg9T25hMEhPdjFVc1k Use the hash marks, NOT the arrows! Subarus do not use TDC for belt alignment. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danbarr98 Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 So the belt position doesn't matter as long as the crank and cams hit TDC at the same time right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danbarr98 Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Subaru does the timing marks so that all four pistons are half way in the bores so that a cam move during the work won't roach the valves (only some versions of the EJ series interfere). There is also a TDC mark. Check with a good manual or the FSM to identify the correct marks. Put the crank on the correct mark gently by hand but stop if you feel any change in resistance. Then you can move the cams to the correct marks without worry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danbarr98 Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 Sounds simpler than I thought at first! Thanks Chaz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Stone Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 Hi all...I've recently purchased a '97 Legacy GT Wagon(JDM)...old I know!...but nevertheless a gem. I've replaced 'Rocker cover' gaskets both sides, and I'm having fun trying to stop the driver side gasket from leaking oil. I've since removed the driver side rocker cover, and put 'gasket cement' around the bottom part of the seal. My question is!....how tight does one do the bolts up on the covers...I've broken one bolt(since had that repaired...obviously to tight!!!)Â Rob....bambozzled, and mystified!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 Make sure you don't have two gaskets on there. Clean the body side and make sure the new gasket does not have any breaks in it. Snug and then a wee bit more. Actual torque spec is only 3.6ft.lbs Are the rubber grommets in place? O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 Hi all...I've recently purchased a '97 Legacy GT Wagon(JDM)...old I know!...but nevertheless a gem. I've replaced 'Rocker cover' gaskets both sides, and I'm having fun trying to stop the driver side gasket from leaking oil. I've since removed the driver side rocker cover, and put 'gasket cement' around the bottom part of the seal. My question is!....how tight does one do the bolts up on the covers...I've broken one bolt(since had that repaired...obviously to tight!!!) Rob....bambozzled, and mystified!! I had the same problem. I had to redo the packing fluid and make sure I was using the right gaskets for my valve covers. Apparently there is 3 different designs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danbarr98 Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 Would anyone know a reason why the TC won't fully seat into the transmission? The oil pump shaft is in the TC when I install and I suspect that's the reason it won't fully seat. All the other splines seem to set in. Any ideas? I had the motor in but had to remove again because the Seal was damage and was leaking. When I pulled it out the oil pump shaft didn't want to come out of the TC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danbarr98 Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 It does look Like something is blocking the oil pump shaft from going in all the way, like a half circle way in there, idk any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 Maybe a dropped c clip. Attached is diagram from FSM.Torque Coverter and Case.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 Mine only clicked in twice. I'm glad I didn't force the engine back in because I pulled it back out and rotated it while putting firm pressure on it and it clicked in another notch to where it was supposed to go. The first two clicks are easy, that last one is tricky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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