Reloadit Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 It's going to be something stupid again. I drove it over 50 miles staying close to home and without using the heater yesterday. No noticeable leak. It might just be a slow leak all the time. While I was futzing with it in the down time, I did get it started and drove it a bit only to have it overheat with low coolant so maybe it just slow leaked until the coolant got low, then over heated dumping considerable fluid on the block, still the back of the block mostly by the throttle springs. I will drive it a bit more without the heater if I can avoid using the window defroster and watch it very closely. I will watch my oil too. Next good sunny day with plenty of light, I will pull the air intake off and take a good look at the hoses. I have been constantly topping off the coolant since the major repairs by the mechanics who took it all apart and put it back together, but I never seen anything leaking on the ground and so far nothing in the oil. I've taken it on hard and fast trips over the mountains with 4 hour round trips without a significant loss of coolant but I didn't use the heater on those trips either. Just for clarification, it seems like most agree the whole system stays under pressure all the time, correct? If so and the leak is small enough, maybe it only gets to leaking more when the coolant lowers enough to over heat some? Overheating causes more pressure right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 I would pull the throttle body and replace that gasket, the throttle body has coolant running through it and there are two hoses attached to it, so it'll give you an opportunity to replace the gasket and hoses which may be the cause of the leak, but this will also give you access to under the intake to do a proper inspection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Exactly as Brighton says. With a little effort you can get the job done with just removing the throttle body from the intake. Those little lines get forgotten when the rest of the cooling system is refreshed. I agree that higher temp is higher pressure. It may leak so slow you don't notice until it really gets pushed or the level gets low. I wouldn't count on a slow leak staying slow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 OK fellas, I'm ordering gaskets and so far have ordered the Intake Manifold gasket and the one throttle body gasket. Was thinking I might want the o-rings for the coolant crossover but am not sure I'm finding the right ones and the same goes for the hoses. What all would you suggest having on hand for a quick repair without having to wait for parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 The OEM orings are part number is 806933010 but you can also get away with these from a hardware store https://andrewpeng.net/posts/2013/10/292331-subaru-ej25-coolant-crossover-pipe-o-ring.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 If you take the intake off be absolutely sure nothing falls down those open holes. cover or stuff in rags as soon as you get them open. If you have alternate transportation you won't have to worry too much. Some small hose clamps. 5 feet of coolant pressure hose in the small size that runs under there. Some thread sealant if you take out a temp sensor. Some RTV ultra black. Blue thread lock. You shouldn't need most of that, but.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Thanks guys. Waiting for my gaskets to get here and will have all the hose and sealant on hand. I might order a new temp sensor has I have been suspicious of it for some time too. It got to leaking pretty good this morning and over heated, pulled right over and I could hear a slow dripping and sizzling sound with each drip. Couldn't see it or pin point the sound to well either. I hope the gaskets get here in the next few days because it's calling for sunny weather for a change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 OK, got some sun, pulled off the air intake and I can see a flange the top heater coolant hose connects to that is extremely corroded. It's the flange that mounts to the block or what looks like the coolant crossover. Anyone know what this metal tube/ flange is called so I can find one? It's about 4 inches long and the top heater hose connects to it. I will keep searching on line in hopes of figuring it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 It's the pipe on the top picture not the bottom one being pointed out in the picture. It is corroded right at the flange not so much the pipe. Looks like a bear to remove but think I can get it. FYI the top most right pipe off of the crossover is what I am trying to identify and buy or restore. http://i.imgur.com/4UbqZ79.png Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 That is the bypass hose, the one end goes to the waterpump and then connects to the heater assembly, I think they are less than $20 from subarupartswarehouse. It's ok if it's corroded, but not ok if the corrosion has eaten holes through the metal or structurally compromised the tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 Lets see if this photo comes out. It's the tube that I see always attached to a crossover when I find it. One bolt I can reach. Let's see if the photo loads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 That is the bypass hose, the one end goes to the waterpump and then connects to the heater assembly, I think they are less than $20 from subarupartswarehouse. It's ok if it's corroded, but not ok if the corrosion has eaten holes through the metal or structurally compromised the tube. Thanks Brighton, it is very corroded at the flange and inch further down the pipe but it sounds like that might be typical. I feel I should have been able to see it leaking but haven't. If I were to take it off, is there a o-ring gasket? It seems they are left on used crossovers am I asking for trouble removing it for inspection? I have my throttle boy gaskets and my intake gasket, just hoping to get around pulling the intake if I can get lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 wait, are you talking about the pipe at the end of the crossover pipe or the black pipe that has the hose that goes up to the throttle body? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 wait, are you talking about the pipe at the end of the crossover pipe or the black pipe that has the hose that goes up to the throttle body? The little pipe off of that last picture and it is at the end, has one bolt on the top of it I think I can reach. It has as much as 1/8 inch of corrosion on mine. I have been looking and looking for just that pipe online and I always find it with the crossover. That little pipe I am speaking of attached to the crossover is connected to what I suspect is a heater hose going into the fire wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 It's like that part doesn't come off the crossover. I see no mention of a name for it to search for it alone. Makes me think taking it off to inspect it might be asking for problems. I might just button it back today and plan a full day of possibly taking the dang intake off if I have too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Oh, don't remove it. I fought to remove mine for about half an hour because I wanted to replace the oring and bolt. Mine ended up being really stuck in place and I was trying to not damage the bolt mounting tab/mating surface and it ended up just being a waste of time because there is no oring and am convinced that mine doesn't leak by magic or something. If it does leak to begin with then remove it and JB weld it in place or something, otherwise don't mess with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 Got a break from work with some sun left and took the car to Autozone and put the pressure test to the coolant system and sure enough, there was a respectable leak in the throttle body hose right below the throttle body. AZ didn't have the actual line so I got some bulk line and replaced it in the parking lot. Not as easy as you might think but got it done and drove it quite a bit after rinsing her down and so far so good. Ordered a Power Steering pump gasket kit to seal it and if all holds, might even get the ac fixed and yell's yeah. The fuel pump was $36 shipped and I get the sensation that I might be getting some stuttering once and a while. Anyone have an opinion on the cheap fuel pumps? Got it on ebay. Also, am I asking for trouble with using gas line from AutoZone for the coolant line I replaced today. It almost wants to kink but seems to be holding up without kinking so far. Thanks again for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 That's awesome that you found the leak! Be very careful with the PS pump when taking it apart and expect to buy a replacement pump if it goes bad. I wasn't able to rebuild mine :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 That's awesome that you found the leak! Be very careful with the PS pump when taking it apart and expect to buy a replacement pump if it goes bad. I wasn't able to rebuild mine :/ Dang, didn't want to hear that about the PS pump. Mine is just leaking a slow leak on top of my block. However, even though I keep it checked and level correct I do sometimes feel the steering could be smoother and easier. Maybe I should just consider a new pump? So far so good on the coolant hitting the engine block. When I started it this morning it was 17 degrees and I gave my exhaust a little sniff and I might have smelled what might be a little antifreeze smell. I hope it was paranoia. I have new head gaskets and I will check my oil here in a bit to see if I over pressured the coolant system to find my leak. I can't imagine blowing out a head gasket with the short high pressure test I did. I'm hoping for the best and will update as soon as I give her another once over today. Two bright and sunny days in a row, cold but sunny. Good times. Just wish I wasn't working today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 I don't think you could wreck a head gasket with pressure in the coolant no matter how hard you try. Coolant has a design normal pressure of about 15 psi. The combustion chamber has a design normal pressure *without* combustion of 185 psi, and with combustion it would be many times that. A coolant line would pop long before you reached 175 psi, never mind whatever the combustion pressure would be. Diagnosing an engine by exhaust smell is complex and takes lots of experience. So, I'm sure you are good to go. Also, people bypass all that coolant to throttle body stuff for a cooler intake charge, so I'm sure you are fine if it kinks a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 The most common PS leak is from the oring between the reservoir and pump. Inside the pump SEEMED simple but I still managed to mess something up and kill it, and honestly it may have no even been dead, I may have just been impatient and not let it fill with fluid long enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 Thanks Doublechaz and Brighton. I will be watching the coolant level and gauge for a while I'm sure and I do smell burning coolant every now and then while driving but I suspect I still have plenty of it on my block despite the fact that I can see no pools after my last rinse when I put the new hose on. I'm still curious about the wisdom in putting in a $30 dollar fuel pump because I am still getting some lag in acceleration, mostly when it is not up to operating temp. Didn't have that before I put the new cheap fuel pump in. It might just be plugs and wires all the sudden. I'm thinking I might just buy a quality fuel pump and put it in anyways. The way I see it $30 and 40 minutes was reasonable to diagnose the original problem with starting and running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 No experience with cheap pumps, so I don't know. I like to put the best in my car, but I also want it to be a forever car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 I had throttle lag for the longest time, I only had it on heavy throttle or launches but it was a pain in the butt to get rid of, the coil replacement solved most of it and then the lightweight crank pulley got rid of the last of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reloadit Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 Thanks doublechaz and Brighton. I'm going to drive it for a while, take it on a two hour one way trip through the mountains and if it holds up I will likely put in a better fuel pump, new plugs and wires and replace the fuel filter. The fuel filter is only a year and half old and of course it was down for 4 of those months. The coil is only a year and a half old too. So far no obvious coolant leaks. If I had more confidence in the mechanics who overhauled it, I would be putting the best parts in it but I just can't knowing it may totally fail on me at any given time. I'm really getting to know it and if the opportunity presents itself I might just by a new one with less miles but in the same generation so I know how to fix it with all the valuable lessons this car has given me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.