arg36 Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 In the process of replacing my passenger front axle today, the portion of my lower ball joint that sticks out of the control arm sheared clean with the control arm. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161231/abd8985bd9c71d4824e1974f28ff3b73.jpg The pinch bolt came out easily and I have a new ball joint ready to reinsert. However, my current one is obviously rusted pretty good into the spindle. Any ideas on getting it out? Obviously reattaching it to the control arm and hammering down on that is not an option. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161231/7fc8e0ebec8d49ec45dff86973282ca6.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161231/b60e371d6d36345fd3fcf0eec0966501.jpg Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 You have enough thread to attach a plate of scrap metal. More PB50, 2 prybars and some wiggling. Maybe wedge a chisel against the plate. Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freaksavior Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 use acetone and atf. Works so much better than pb. Pb is awesome, but 50:50 acetone atf is much better If you have enough thread left, take the new ball joint and go to Home Depot. Get a huge washer and a piece of metal pipe that fits over the balljoint, with a height just under the length of the studs thread. Put the Washer over the pipe and start threading the nut with a wrench. Should pull it right out. Basically make an economical version of the snap on ball joint removal kit. You could also try renting a prying fork designed for ball joints. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phate Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 I had to wedge apart the pinch on the knuckle with an air chisel, which I then wedged into the gap and used to get the balljoint to move. Once it started, I blasted it from alternating sides with the air chisel until it came out. I also had to cut and drill out the pinch bolt though, so you're likely dealing with much less corrosion that I was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 Also use anti-seize compound on the new going in. as well as all threads. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arg36 Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 I ended up getting it out after excessive hammering, PB blaster, swearing and misery. The old one was extremely crusty. Excessive amounts of anti seize were put on the new one and threads. Unfortunately, the whole point of this project which was to replace an axle ended up not happening. After I got the new axle in, I managed to overextend it, pulling all the guts out of the cup on the diff side. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170102/14b7c39a8b851e1740ca8df882c61075.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170102/a40a385c47596578ba69249aa20efeb6.jpg Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Did that once. You'll need new oetiker clamps, but nothing is damaged. If you're careful and clean, you can reassemble with minimal loss of grease. Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phate Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Unfortunately, the whole point of this project which was to replace an axle ended up not happening. After I got the new axle in, I managed to overextend it, pulling all the guts out of the cup on the diff side. I usually pull the tie rod end and knuckle-to-strut bolts, then torque the knuckle away from the car/turn it to get the axle out, usually with some compression. As long as the ball joint and outer CV boots aren't dried/cracking, you shouldn't hurt them at all (you're just bending them around through their range of motion with little/no load). The only downside to this is that you'd have to get an alignment afterwords if you didn't mark the camber bolt before you took it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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