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Help code p1137


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Hey all I've been trying to get to fix my problem with p1137 o2 sensor

So far ive changed 3 sensors thought that the problem is related to it but turned out its not i have currently denso front o2 sensor oem subaru

So i tried to reset ecu and flash the codes it turned off

But i noticed when trying to use cruise control for couple of minutes it turns back on

Im suspecting that the CC is causing the problem

Before using the CC i let the car idle for half an hour

And no cel everything is fine

Only when i use the cruise control it comes back on

I have a 2006 subaru legacy 2.0r 165hp

I need more info about this

Thanks

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Start from the other direction.

 

  1. Make sure that the air filter is fresh.
  2. Any mods to the exhaust system? That may also cause the O2 sensor to "misread".
  3. Clean and check the MAF (Mass Air Flow meter).
  4. Check that you don't have any air leaks at the manifold. This includes the donut gaskets.
  5. Check the PCV.
  6. Check the MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) and TPS (Throttle Position Sensor).
  7. Check that you have fresh spark plugs, and take a good look at the existing ones - they shall all look the same.
  8. Check the injectors, you may have an injector that is mismatched with the others.
  9. Check that the connector is OK for the O2 sensor.

Some of this may require a data log to provide you with useful information, so pick the parts that are easiest first.

 

 

For logging you can use a Tactrix OpenPort 2.0. http://www.tactrix.com/

 

 

 

See other threads for logging like this one http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/program-files-use-tactrix-datalog-166986.html?t=166986 , it's possible to log with it "standalone" by inserting a micro-SD card with a configuration file, the dongle will then log to a file while you are driving.

453747.png
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Start from the other direction.

 

  1. Make sure that the air filter is fresh.
  2. Any mods to the exhaust system? That may also cause the O2 sensor to "misread".
  3. Clean and check the MAF (Mass Air Flow meter).
  4. Check that you don't have any air leaks at the manifold. This includes the donut gaskets.
  5. Check the PCV.
  6. Check the MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) and TPS (Throttle Position Sensor).
  7. Check that you have fresh spark plugs, and take a good look at the existing ones - they shall all look the same.
  8. Check the injectors, you may have an injector that is mismatched with the others.
  9. Check that the connector is OK for the O2 sensor.

Some of this may require a data log to provide you with useful information, so pick the parts that are easiest first.

 

 

For logging you can use a Tactrix OpenPort 2.0. http://www.tactrix.com/

 

 

 

See other threads for logging like this one http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/program-files-use-tactrix-datalog-166986.html?t=166986 , it's possible to log with it "standalone" by inserting a micro-SD card with a configuration file, the dongle will then log to a file while you are driving.

 

1.done and fresh

2.stock exhaust no mods

3.done

4.dont think that i have air leaks if did the car probably would hesitate but no thats false (nothing do to with this code)

5. Oil situation is good no turbo its atmospheric and well maintained (nothing do to with this code)

6.both are done and doing good (nothing do to with this code)

7.ngk fresh and new (nothing do to with this code)

8.injectors are OEM and everything match (nothing do to with this code)

9.connector is ok the sensor is doing the job but there is a little bit resistance 2.1v in both sides from the sensor it self to the ecm look normal to me

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The Cruise Control shall usually not give this kind of effect by itself, it's a chain of events and without enough data it's hard to give a good recommendation that may lead to the solution.

 

Check grounding as well. A bad/weak battery or alternator may also lead to strange problems. The point is to try to rule out all items that may be the most common culprits causing this kind of problem.

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The Cruise Control shall usually not give this kind of effect by itself, it's a chain of events and without enough data it's hard to give a good recommendation that may lead to the solution.

 

Check grounding as well. A bad/weak battery or alternator may also lead to strange problems. The point is to try to rule out all items that may be the most common culprits causing this kind of problem.

 

Battery is new bought one like a month ago voltage is good alternator is doing great if the alternator failed it wont charge the battery in the first place both are good

That what question me also p1137

I removed it and put the car to idle for 30 mins nothing have showed only when i use that cruise control shit it comes back i don't know ive checked almost everything

And everything runs great

Everything is fine car runs perfect acceleration is perfect no hesitation no bogging nothing stock and pretty good

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Remove the connector to the O2 sensor and clean both connectors inside and out with contact cleaner. refill the connector with the electro-lube stuff (cant think what it is called, its in the single use pouches at the counter of the parts store). The lube is very important, without it, water and crap WILL get in there. Water, salt, metal and electricity don't mix. Ends very poorly and very quickly for the metal.
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Remove the connector to the O2 sensor and clean both connectors inside and out with contact cleaner. refill the connector with the electro-lube stuff (cant think what it is called, its in the single use pouches at the counter of the parts store). The lube is very important, without it, water and crap WILL get in there. Water, salt, metal and electricity don't mix. Ends very poorly and very quickly for the metal.

 

Sounds logic il try this one

Any other suggestions?

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Might wanna find a wiring diagram, see if they share a power supply or ground.

Example: Heat shield rusted off my RSX, sawed through an oxygen sensor wire, BAM, alternator stopped charging. Speedo went out too. Took me a bit to figure out what had happened!

 

Definitely want to rule out wiring harness as a possible issue. You say you see 2.1 volts in 2 wires to the sensor? Seems weird they would be the same. One should be for the signal that senses air/fuel ratio, the other is for the o2 heater. 2.1 volts won't heat dung. OR if you have 2.1 volts in a ground wire, you have a ground issue.

 

Example: My 99 Outbacks rear defrost stopped working. When I unplugged the connector to the ground side, I had .6 volts seemingly coming out of the chassis. Turns out the connector to the chassis wiring harness was undone (derp). I'll see this "phantom voltage" happen fairly often, I immediately check

the grounds.

 

90+% of the time, electrical issues are with the grounds.

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9.connector is ok the sensor is doing the job but there is a little bit resistance 2.1v in both sides from the sensor it self to the ecm look normal to me

 

Here it is. You mention 2.1 Volts as resistance. Did you mean Ohms?

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Here it is. You mention 2.1 Volts as resistance. Did you mean Ohms?

 

Im not sure if its ohm or volts but it shows from the o2 sensor wire and from the connector to the ecm

 

So can u send me pictures something that i would know what to do il be uploading pictures soon tomorrow im gonna jump to the garage to start work on it

 

Like the guy said above il try this one but im not sure about grounding since everything is doing good with the car i checked the fuses and everything doing good

Can u give me further information or a diagram to it

Cause the outback is very similar but u got the old version

What do i need to do exactly?

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Sounds like you already have the procedure down, what did you use to check the wires from the ecu to the sensor?

 

Harbor Freight multimeter would be sufficient. Might want to buy 2 for convenience, they are kind of crappy. But for $6 (sometimes they are free) you cant beat it. The "DC" setting measures electrical current, the greek symbol Omega (looks like and upside down horseshoe) measures ohms.

 

There is a wiring diagram around here, I don't have it though.

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Sounds like you already have the procedure down, what did you use to check the wires from the ecu to the sensor?

 

Harbor Freight multimeter would be sufficient. Might want to buy 2 for convenience, they are kind of crappy. But for $6 (sometimes they are free) you cant beat it. The "DC" setting measures electrical current, the greek symbol Omega (looks like and upside down horseshoe) measures ohms.

 

There is a wiring diagram around here, I don't have it though.

 

 

I know what is ohm but cant find any solutions for it this thing is so mysterious i need more help

What can i do next

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so today i have done this

cleaned the o2 plug and the connector plug with contact spray erased the code

and cel popped back again

should i tie-wrap the connector together? if its what causing the problem

or what should i do next?

 

-You need to be certain the ecm is sending the correct signal. Idf you see 2.1 volts on the ecms' pin to the harness, that's probably ok. I think they run on 1-5 volts, a reading in that range is probably the best you can do, unless you want to analyze all of the sensor inputs that factor in the signal sent to the O2 sensor.

-You need to be sure the wire carrying the signal voltage

to the O2 sensor is ok, you would want to see a resistance value of less than 1 across the wire.

-You need to be certain the O2 sensor is OK, there will be a range of resistance that the actual sensor circuit needs to fall between. Should be in the service manual somewhere, I'm sure you could contact a Subaru dealer service department and they would provide you with the range.

-You need to be sure the wire carrying the signal back to the ecm is ok, again a resistance of less than 1 should be ok.

 

If all of the above checks out, the system is likely doing its job, and you air/fuel mixture is actually off. Here is where things like exhaust leaks, clogged/melted catalytic converts, mouse nests in the intake, etc... come into play.

 

A quick, easy and fun check: place a screwdriver tip on each fuel injector with the engine running. Plug your ear with the handle, in a manner so you are blocking out outside noise. Listen for a smooth, sharp, rhythmic ticking. It may take a moment to tune in to, but once you pick up on it, it will be there, loud and clear. Maybe you will get lucky and one of the injectors will sound "off".

-A misbehaving fuel injector won't likely throw a CEL unless it is completely unresponsive, as in the signal from the ecm isn't going to ground. The injector could be stuck open or closed 100% of the time due to internal problems but as long as the ecm signal travels to ground, it will not be able to detect anything is wrong in the injector.

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-You need to be certain the ecm is sending the correct signal. Idf you see 2.1 volts on the ecms' pin to the harness, that's probably ok. I think they run on 1-5 volts, a reading in that range is probably the best you can do, unless you want to analyze all of the sensor inputs that factor in the signal sent to the O2 sensor.

-You need to be sure the wire carrying the signal voltage

to the O2 sensor is ok, you would want to see a resistance value of less than 1 across the wire.

-You need to be certain the O2 sensor is OK, there will be a range of resistance that the actual sensor circuit needs to fall between. Should be in the service manual somewhere, I'm sure you could contact a Subaru dealer service department and they would provide you with the range.

-You need to be sure the wire carrying the signal back to the ecm is ok, again a resistance of less than 1 should be ok.

 

If all of the above checks out, the system is likely doing its job, and you air/fuel mixture is actually off. Here is where things like exhaust leaks, clogged/melted catalytic converts, mouse nests in the intake, etc... come into play.

 

A quick, easy and fun check: place a screwdriver tip on each fuel injector with the engine running. Plug your ear with the handle, in a manner so you are blocking out outside noise. Listen for a smooth, sharp, rhythmic ticking. It may take a moment to tune in to, but once you pick up on it, it will be there, loud and clear. Maybe you will get lucky and one of the injectors will sound "off".

-A misbehaving fuel injector won't likely throw a CEL unless it is completely unresponsive, as in the signal from the ecm isn't going to ground. The injector could be stuck open or closed 100% of the time due to internal problems but as long as the ecm signal travels to ground, it will not be able to detect anything is wrong in the injector.

 

The o2 sensor is working just fine the car runs perfect without any bogging or hesitation or any other

In my opinion i dont think the injector is the problem its rare to have a problem like this there is no misfire or something

I remember once the coil of cylinder 4 had a broken clip so i warped it and make it good before warping it i had misfires and everyone start to tell me u need to change the coil and bla bla bla even tho after buying a new coil which wasn't the problem i had to check it out by myself and had it work and everything fine but im suspecting probably this thing causing that or i dont know i dont have leaks or anything clogged this is a well maintained car and i keep follow and maintain almost every part of it

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