Jump to content

Engine Pull Walk-thru...errr talk-thru.

Recommended Posts

Since Teaser asked for some punch points on pulling the engine I figured I could make a thread and share my experience and give others a thread to add pointers to. Maybe even make it a sticky...;)


I will add some pics in tapatalk to save myself from having to resize them.


So here is my sequence of events:


1. Open hood and move struts to lower hole to open the hood up super wide. ( This is an awesome feature I don't know why more cars don't have it)



2. Remove engine cover and air duct since its easy to do and its right there.


3. Pull FP fuse and crank engine until you are satisfied the pressure is relieved.


3.a. Be disappointed later when pressure is still in the lines, lol.


4. There is a whole host of things to do at this point which do not affect each other:

Pull coolant overflow, fans, air cleaner box, battery and tray, intercooler.


5. This is a good place to pull the lower rad hose to drain the coolant, it is the lowest point in the system and you can loosen both clamps to angle the hose downward. Also since that is draining a good time to take a break or clean that AEM filter that will have hours or days to dry.


6. While the coolant is draining, remove the engine cover bracket, charge pipe if you wish, and remove the grimmspeed ebcs you bolted to the lower radiator support (because it seemed like such a convenient place at the time). Also a good time to remove the V brace from the front, and paint/repaint if necessary.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161229/f1a81149cf4751b5625ea7c5a9c90948.jpg


7. Getting down to the nitty gritty...remove the serpentine belt and alternator wiring and pull it off to the driver side, remove the idler pulley, then remove the bolts holding the PS pump bracket and the AC compressor brackets in place, trust me you don't want to remove the AC compressor from its brackets...just don't. Leave them in place for now.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161229/a8134691d4225bd710e9d4f795202f88.jpg


At this point the coolant is drained, you can remove everything possible from up top like I did or get under the car and start undoing the two nuts and two bolts from the back of the engine and the DP to intermediate pipe connection. Your choice


8. I kept it going up top: unbolted slave cylinder, removed ground cable from starter, unbolted starter cable and connector, removed bolts from top side of engine and disconnected main engine harness, and secondary harness.


8a. Tried in vane to get the lower starter bolt loose to be continued...


9. Time to get dirty...dirtier...from underneath undo the ground straps from both cylinder heads, then get way under the car and use a ratchet and 6" extension with a wobble end to remove the bolt just over the CV axle, now is a good time to ponder the meaning of life and just how much money $764 is...(install cost for clutch at the dealer). Now the fun part getting the two lower nuts off, if you have a flex head ratchet I hope you brought it with you under the car, I do and I did and I'll be damned it was pretty easy going here. Trick is to spin the axle to get to a flat spot that lets you get the ratchet on the nut and then all those curls and grip work at the gym pay off!http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161229/647f2d08ce6f4706b23e47b8d83dd975.jpg


10. Finish up under the car by unbolting the DP from the intermediate pipe, and then sliding over and removing the intake hose from the hard plastic part that bolts to the turbo, the one with a hundred hoses in it...yeah that one. Luckily that stays on the engine no problem.


11. Now you remember that one lower starter bolt that you thought you might be able to see under the car...well you can't so climb on a step or a brick and use a 14mm short socket on a 6" extension and that long flex head ratchet to get it off from the driver side, yes its a pita but what are you gonna do you are saving yourself a butt-load of money not paying a dealer to do this!


12. Now I disconnected the fuel lines so as not to be smelling fumes the whole time during removal. (Tip: leave the quick connects alone and undo the clamps.) You're done! [emoji14] Just kidding, now you need to find some attachment points for the hoist and get ready to pull some motor!

12a. If you are imaginative and insist on undoing the fuel quick connects but don't have the proper tools. You can make one like this:





13. After attaching the hoist and lifting the weight off the car, undo the front mount and remove it completely from the engine and then the car, trust me you need all the room you can get. Also a good time to remove the nuts holding the trans mounts to the chassis ( I didn't and then I realized I had to so just do it now before you have to.)


14. I have a very scientific approach to unmating the engine and trans. I lift until both are even, then hit the bell housing with a 4 lb hammer in a good thick spot, then I wiggle and shake the engine, pull it back a little, then use a wrecker bar to pull the two apart. Eventually you end up with two halves of a powertrain and you can lift the engine up and out of the car.






Installation is the reverse!


Oh and if you are astute you will have noticed I didn't pull the radiator, correct I did not, I don't see the need unless you have way too much time on your hands and you like doing more work than necessary. If that is you have at it!


I will add to this as I can including anything I run into on the rest of the install.

Edited by FLlegacy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been using the little bit of daylight between work and sundown to start tare down. I have never done this so the walk through helps even though I've been on the same path for the most part. Need to double check I'm pulling the ac compressor correctly.


I can get a good clear pic in the AM.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are some pics of the. Ac compressor bolts so you know relatively where they are.


They empty bolts are where they go on the brackets.




Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So after everything is back together I still have the bolts for the flywheel and pressure plate. All new if someone needs them. Pm me.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the write-up, as I'm due for a clutch change soon. When I was changing my water pump a few weeks ago, I briefly considered continuing with the engine pull to replace the clutch as well, but my fun meter was pegged. Good to hear that the hood doesn't need to be removed, and the A/C lines can stay connected to the compressor.


That said, is it about the same amount of work to drop the tranny out the bottom? TIA

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe on previous generations, but we have to hang the engine from something in order to drop the tranny (rear engine mounts are on the tranny rather than on the engine), so it probably ends up being about a horse apiece. Depends on which way sounds least crappy to you at the time, I think.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe on previous generations, but we have to hang the engine from something in order to drop the tranny (rear engine mounts are on the tranny rather than on the engine), so it probably ends up being about a horse apiece. Depends on which way sounds least crappy to you at the time, I think.

Yep pretty much...if you have a lift drop the tranny for sure. You can make a brace from wood to hold the engine and use a couple ratchet straps. But I think both ways involve a lot of the same work, or different but equal work.


Removing the engine also gives access to the steering damper and front sway bar.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

subbed for my own inevitable clutch job.

GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold

GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold

GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold


Stapp's Law: “The universal aptitude for ineptitude makes any human accomplishment an incredible miracle.”


"Simple incompetence is a far more sinister force in the world than evil intent."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This was an awesome read through, appreciate it! Can't wait to give this a shot down the line! Pretty much taken the top half of the motor apart, this will be my next goal to accomplish.. Alot less intimidating than I was originally thinking haha.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
lol if you can't deliver what you thread title says lol :p


Its a walk through not a how-to that is what the vacation pics are for :p


Seriously vacation pics and various little walk through posts are enough. I'm not anything close to a mechanic, and I was able to figure this out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use