landcrush Posted January 11, 2017 Author Share Posted January 11, 2017 Got the Leggy back from Subaru dealership leakdown revealed 25psi and 95% leakdown in Cylinder 4 as i had anticipated... Spoke to Precision Tuning they reccomended drop in forged pistons to go along with the oem shortblock. Considering I'm planning on keeping power at or around 280-300whp is this overkill or a good preventative step since the motor will already be out. Also since i'm going to be buying a complete shortblock (as opposed to building one) and doing the R&R myself, is it feasible to go ahead and assemble the long block myself, or should i shell out the extra clams and leave it to the pros. I have some experience with engine internals but only with a '72 toyota straight six:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted January 11, 2017 I Donated Too Share Posted January 11, 2017 If you REALLY are going to keep it more stock then forged pistons aren't a great idea for reaching 100k as you will get more bore wear. The replacement block is good to go, leave it alone with the cast pistons honestly - BUT if you do get the bug to mod then you will want forged pistons and then you can accept the shorter lifespan for more fun, less money and a hobby instead of a means of transport. I think Precision Tuning recommend the pistons simply because most people can't leave well enough alone... I'd probably do the pistons and take the risk to the lifespan because I know I would tune for more power but remember you must always let the car warm up properly with forged pistons as this is where most of the wear and damage will come from if you don't - there will be no more starting up on a cold day and just driving the car... you need to be disciplined about this. You can assemble your own long block if you feel confident and we love to help you around here and there is also youtube. You got some good advice here about the head bolts... don't bother getting new factory ones, invest in ARP studs even at stock/mild above stock tunes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 What is the factory warranty on the OEM shortblock and what is Precision Tuning offering? If you are planning on forged pistons, you could just use your existing engine and put pistons and head studs in it and be done. (assuming the cylinder walls are still good which they probably are) Then it's still a numbers matching Spec B. Broken ring lands are not necessarily a catastrophic failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 Got the Leggy back from Subaru dealership leakdown revealed 25psi and 95% leakdown in Cylinder 4 as i had anticipated... Spoke to Precision Tuning they reccomended drop in forged pistons to go along with the oem shortblock. Considering I'm planning on keeping power at or around 280-300whp is this overkill or a good preventative step since the motor will already be out. Also since i'm going to be buying a complete shortblock (as opposed to building one) and doing the R&R myself, is it feasible to go ahead and assemble the long block myself, or should i shell out the extra clams and leave it to the pros. I have some experience with engine internals but only with a '72 toyota straight six:) I went from a jeep 4.0 to doing my Subaru long block. There's a lot of info around to help make sure everything is happy. Depends on how you handle learning curves and what your time/effort is worth to you. To some on here it's not worth it to change their oil. I'm usually looking for an excuse to wrench so doing everything myself was a no brainer. I also had a year to plan while driving it, instead of having a non working car like you do right now. Skip forged, get a good tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 You don't need forged pistons. As I said above, read my click here link. It really is that simple. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landcrush Posted January 11, 2017 Author Share Posted January 11, 2017 Thanks for the input guys. I read your build Max and will probably follow a very similar route after thinking about the options. It's just difficult to make a sure decision with conflicting schools of thought regarding forged vs stock. given that this will be my daily I feel much better doing mods to handling and suspension rather than trying to make crazy power that will limit my longevity. Definitely going with ARP head studs as per everyone's recommendation. I think more reasonable goals around 280wtq not concerned with hp per say. Beginning tear down thursday will take pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 Thanks for the input guys. I read your build Max and will probably follow a very similar route after thinking about the options. It's just difficult to make a sure decision with conflicting schools of thought regarding forged vs stock. given that this will be my daily I feel much better doing mods to handling and suspension rather than trying to make crazy power that will limit my longevity. Definitely going with ARP head studs as per everyone's recommendation. I think more reasonable goals around 280wtq not concerned with hp per say. Beginning tear down thursday will take pics at those power levels stock pistons will be, Mike Kinsman's tune is that great that even another 30-40whp would be safe with his tune. I think you know what to do...I'm sure my set up will run for many more years. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdmayne Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 Man, all of these horror stories really make me feel lucky. I bought my LGT with 135K on the clock (also blinded by beauty, like OP) and no service records. Suspension mods and boost gauge were done correctly, so I just threw caution to the wind and signed the contract. 3 years, 50K later, I've had minor problems only and am still loving it. John Hancock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 I did mine as preventative maintenance, for fun and for more power. Made more sense to do it that way then just replace the timing belt and go to stage 2 at 200k miles. No horror story here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landcrush Posted January 11, 2017 Author Share Posted January 11, 2017 Yea not blaming Subaru for this one, this was just a tough way to learn a lesson- I'm well aware that its not 'all turbo subarus' but rather ones that weren't maintained or were pushed too hard. I should've had a more thorough pre purchase inspection done, but a quick look over and okay of the car by Turbotime gave me false confidence in the car's health. Probably a newb question but would my initial tune on the car following the build be a specific break in tune? Max, Tuning Alliance sounds like the place to go but would I just have the car shipped up there? (Assuming I can't drive a brand new motor 200 miles North on old tune) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 Tuning Alliance does e-tunes. They would also provide you with a break in tune. You don't really want to use the OEM tune as it's not the best. You could also get a break-in map from them, and drive there for the final tune once the engine break in is done. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05redLGT Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 Thats not true, you bought a car that probably had lost a bearing or something, original owner sold it to the dealership, and then you bought it new turbo should have been your tell tail sign. Remaining debre broke loose and took out your new turbo and Oil control valves. You made a bad purchase just like the OP. i didn't buy it from a dealer, i bought it from the original owner. they car ran perfectly and then suddenly pop goes the turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landcrush Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 So I contacted Heubeurger for a shortblock. They only have the EJ255 in stock and that would be covered under the one year warranty. An Ej257 would have to be ordered and is not covered under parts warranty. Is there anything other than CR that makes a 257 the better choice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 The difference in CR is so slight, its not worth talking about. When I bought mine, they say the cranks were better in the ej257. I don't know if that's still the case. Remember to get the engine gasket set for your year car. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 The ej257 used to have the nitrided crank it in, but I don't believe they do anymore. I think they are induction hardened now. Regardless of treatment the crank is not considered the weak point in the ej255 or ej257. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted January 12, 2017 I Donated Too Share Posted January 12, 2017 this is a few years old but worth following and learning from the comments/links on this... Surprised Max didn't already post this as he is as usual, in it... http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/need-shortblock-please-help-me-understand-255-vs-257-202486.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 Curious, been following the thread. What's up with the previous owner and the $$ refund? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landcrush Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 The p.o. gave me a decent refund, not nearly as much as I would've liked given I had a compression test done at Subaru (for $300 plus $200 in towing) expressly to get a refund. It was a condition I had to follow in order to receive a refund, even though my own compression test already let me know it was time to pull the motor. If you'd like to know specifics you can PM me Had to work today will get the tear down started tomorrow. Going to be doing as much of the assembly as I can, been reading a lot of the FSM - keeping me up at night ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landcrush Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 Just should be glad I got anything back I guess!- still sucks to be paying a lot more for her than I had anticipated but such is car ownership (and poor decisions) Excited to have a great car at the end of all of this though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05redLGT Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 Regardless of if you bought it from a dealer or a single owner, a replaced turbo is 9 out of 10 times a sign there was an underlying problem. They replace the turbo thinking it fixed the problem but never really address the issue of why the turbo went Kaboom! A few days, weeks, or months down the road and the turbo is blown again. New owner blames Subaru for crappy turbo, crappy motor. But many people with 10yr old cars are still on the original turbo, and block i just thought it was a normal occurence due to filters not being taken out or something, so the turbo being changed gave me confidence to buy...and i mean common, car has new oem turbo with like 5k miles on it and all the work and gaskets replaced too? i thought it as just a well maintained gem... i was very wrong, will look out for these things int he future Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rapture Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 I do have a brand new short block still avail if ur interested Lmk im local ( philly) Also i have a good tuner in the area Plus im homies w vince at prime Lmk if u need any help Good luck U can doo it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landcrush Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 sent you a pm rapture. appreciate the help everyone great to have a tight knit community behind you. Just called Prime today actually! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 The p.o. gave me a decent refund, not nearly as much as I would've liked given I had a compression test done at Subaru (for $300 plus $200 in towing) expressly to get a refund. It was a condition I had to follow in order to receive a refund, even though my own compression test already let me know it was time to pull the motor. If you'd like to know specifics you can PM me Had to work today will get the tear down started tomorrow. Going to be doing as much of the assembly as I can, been reading a lot of the FSM - keeping me up at night ! I have to say it is pretty stand up of the guy to give you a refund at all. It was a private AS-IS sale and you drove 400 miles after. Dude could have said pound sand and even if you took him to court you would have lost. I know you didn't get all that you wanted back but I think it was a good faith gesture on his part for sure. Hope you get it back on the road soon and enjoy it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landcrush Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 For sure don't mean to sound ungrateful and with the understanding it was as-is sale, the car still has to be representative of what the seller described (which was a solid running car with no serious issues). Whether or not he knew about oil consumption and the car's impending demise, I don't know. But i kind of suspect he knew something wasn't right and wanted to off the car ( he drove it less than 10k miles during his ownership and not much at all in the past few months) Not to sound like a stuck up A hole about any of this, and I do agree that the p.o. deserves credit as a good guy in this situation, I still think he made out with a very good deal . And this put myself being a college student working a lot in a tough situation financially and time wise. I'm not blaming anyone but myself for the predicament i'm in, should've been more aware but like I said I was blinded by the beauty of that car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landcrush Posted January 14, 2017 Author Share Posted January 14, 2017 Assembling my shopping list and wanna run some things by y'all. Gonna try and buy as much used as possible (This is already going to be a very expensive project) I've budgeted about $4000 +/- for the whole job Keep in mind I'll be doing as much R&R as I can in my friends shop. Stock intercooler is cracked on the sides w/ jb weld hoodrat repairs so that'll need replacing. There's a racer x fmic for sale on the forums for a good price, don't have a problem buying a new top mount but for the price i think i'll go with a racer x. Need new turbo(well don't need per say but wanna ditch the vf40 w/unknown mileage) Was planning on going reman VF52 but not sure where to get one Didn't really want to go bigger but my buddy has a brand new Blouch 18gxt and there's a BNR 18g for sale on NASIoc. Front mount opens up a whole world of options. Would it be a bad idea to run an 18g on lower boost(still going for engine longevity, i know these turbos typically run highish boost and 350+tq) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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