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I have one whole day in a pro garage with your new 2005 LGT...

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So, I am a new LGT owner hailing from the Front Range in CO. I recently purchased an stock engine 2005 LGT Ltd 5spd with 113k on the clock (and now addicted to adrenaline lol [emoji13]). Greetings everyone!


So long story short, I am heading up to my buddy's pro-level garage up in the mountains to work on my car tomorrow, and I am wondering- what would people suggest that I look at as far as engine health/longevity is concerned? I am competent with NA engines but relatively new to turbos/Subarus/boxer engines and wanted to make sure I cover all my bases.


So far I know/have done this:

- stage 1 Cobb map

- boost is strong (well duh!) through the entire power range, but overboosts a bit over target numbers. Note I live/drive at altitude , 5400 ft, not sure if this affects overboost

- DAM is consistently at 1.00/1.00

- fine knock learn had tripped a couple times, haven't paid attention to when, but never goes below -1.4

- Exhaust temp regularly hits 1400 degrees with any sort of turbo use. Seems high to me and based on what I have read

- coolant temp actually runs low when idling (enough for the stock gauge to visibly drop, but within the "normal range" markings)



So far I have the following on my list:

-diff oil

-change oil (switching out a few hundred miles short of 3k so I can put rotella T6 in it)

- check timing belt (see how much time I have, I plan on doing it soon anyway to be safe as I am at 113k and no service record of the change)

- check turbo shaft play

- replace spark plugs

- check steering linkages

- remove banjo bolt



Can anyone think of anything else I should check?


Does anyone have any time/cost estimates for doing this work (I probably will have a Subyhead friend whose done a lot of work on his WRX helping me)?


Is this reasonable to get done in a day?


If not, what would you all rate as highest priority?


I apologize for grouping a bunch of different topics in a general thread, seemed like the best fit. Thanks for the input and your patience to a budding Subaru enthusiast!







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read through the sticky's at the tops of the forums.




Contact Dave at Cryotuning.com he's close to you and is someone your going to want to know.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.


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One day is no problem, the only task of any significance is pulling off the DP to check the turbo. A really good idea would be to put on a catless up-pipe. Probably can't get one before tomorrow. Obviously you'll want to check CV boots, links, and especially oil leaks. Unless the PO was all over it, you'll have a couple.

What part of the FR you in? I'm tech center and on my 3rd '05 if you ever want to stop by for bad ideas.


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relative, I am in the Boulder area, but I drive down to DTC somewhat often. I'm sure I'm going to want to know as many people as I can to help the learning curve :) I'm sure we will probably meet up at some point. Do you go to any of the Subaru meet-ups in the Greater Denver area?


max capacity, thanks for the suggestion! I am trying to scope out the Suby shops and techs that I can trust, I will look in to cryotune. Thanks for the recommendation!

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- coolant temp actually runs low when idling (enough for the stock gauge to visibly drop, but within the "normal range" markings)


- check timing belt (see how much time I have, I plan on doing it soon anyway to be safe as I am at 113k and no service record of the change)



I've never seen a stock temp gauge move a degree, so that sounds like a dead thermostat. If there's any chance that timing belt is original, you should replace it fast; thermostat is a natural addition to that job.


I don't do meet-ups, but I'm sure all the info you could ever need is there.

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Welcome to the forums! 113k and no timing belt yet? That needs to be done ASAP! (But it seems as if you're aware of that.)


Here's what else I'd do:

-Leakdown/Compression test while you do the plugs.

-Pull downpipe, check for shaft play in the turbo.

-Do a boost leak test to make sure you don't have any crazy vacuum leaks.

-Pop the top mount off and look for excessive blowby.

-At that altitude, you should *techincally* have a harder time making boost. The less dense air means the compressor needs to spin more to pack it up. If you're overboosting on a Stage 1 map give the wastegate, actuator, and boost controller/lines a good inspection. Usually the wastegate flappers on the VF40's walk out of place and cause low boost issues, but sometimes they can seize up and overboost.

-Temp fluctuations should not be that large, you've probably got a thermostat that's either sticking open, or the wrong heat range for a stock setup.

-Check all of you suspension bushings. The front lower control arm has two "hockey puck" bushings that are usually torn around this mileage.

-Front ball joints/wheel bearings wear out quickly too, especially if an aftermarket wheel setup was used, check for play.

-Check the brake hardlines going to the rear of the car, there's a TSB out for them. The lines are prone to rusting out and causing failure!



If all that checks out, then start forming a plan for what you want to do to the car, but always remember the oh-so-true adage: "Stay stock, stay happy!" ;)

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance


Everyone knows what I taste like.
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