new rotella formula?

[legacynub]

I just bought the car and my buddy that sold me the car said rotella came out with a new formula that isn't good for the vehicle? what oil should i use?

[Merc6]

I just bought the car and my buddy that sold me the car said rotella came out with a new formula that isn't good for the vehicle? what oil should i use?

 

So we are on the same page, which Brotella did he say don't use? T6? There was thread that showed the one commonly used didn't change "for the worse" but I can't find it exactly. Searching on the actual forum sucks vs google with the forum title at the end of search topic.

[Mike07LGT]

This has been covered a million times. Use any synthetic oil other than mobil 1 and you should be fine. Send a sample to blackstone to get info and OCIs. Good luck!

[arg36]

Do people here run Rotella T6 during the winter?

[Mike07LGT]

Do people here run Rotella T6 during the winter?

 

Most people run it all year...

[spacemanspif]

Why is Mobil1 bad? Does it not hold up against the turbo heat?

[chhrisd]

I run Rotella here in the northeast. it can often go south of 0 degrees here in the middle of winter, and I haven't had any issues using it. if you're worried, use a block heater.

 

also just put some of the 'new' stuff in. It's still 5w-40 oil, so i'm going to keep using it. i'd ask your buddy for his credible source that claims that rotella isn't good for subaru's.

[Rhitter]

Why is Mobil1 bad? Does it not hold up against the turbo heat?[/quote

 

Loads of threads here on why it sucks. Search if you are interested. If not interested in searching just know that it's bad.

[HAMMER DOWN]

I just bought the car and my buddy that sold me the car said rotella came out with a new formula that isn't good for the vehicle? what oil should i use?

To quote myself,

Want your turbo to last as long as your motor. In short, check you oil level often & top as needed. Use whatever oil & filter that will protect for the OCI's your running. OA's is the only way you know that your oil & filter is up for the challenge. After that IMO no OA's are needed.

 

Mike

[Max Capacity]

Why is Mobil1 bad? Does it not hold up against the turbo heat?

 

Some Mobil 1's may be ok, like a 40 weight, but most of us stay away from it with these cars. The 5w-30 brakes down to a 5-20 in short time. That's how its saves gas.

 

I run Amsoil 5w-40 Full SAPS, European Classic year round in both my cars. It's a 5w when cold, 40 when hot. The wagon goes to VT most winter weekends. Even when its in the -20's F, I start it and drive it to the ski hill. Only warm up is to clean the snow or frost off.

 

These cars should not be left to warm up for minutes. Start it, drive it.

[Merc6]

This has been covered a million times. Use any synthetic oil other than mobil 1 and you should be fine. Send a sample to blackstone to get info and OCIs. Good luck!

 

http://polarislabs.com/

 

This is who Amsoil uses as they actually give you more info like TBN and a slew of other stuff BSL won't.

[Mike07LGT]

http://polarislabs.com/

 

This is who Amsoil uses as they actually give you more info like TBN and a slew of other stuff BSL won't.

 

What does it cost to go through this company? Blackstone is like $25 and they send you the kits for free. Im really not a guru with oil so its not a huge deal to me. I run Motul always have always will. Nothing would ever get me to change. Ive had positive results in 4 different turbo subies. To each their own though when it comes to oil choices

[Merc6]

What does it cost to go through this company? Blackstone is like $25 and they send you the kits for free. Im really not a guru with oil so its not a huge deal to me. I run Motul always have always will. Nothing would ever get me to change. Ive had positive results in 4 different turbo subies. To each their own though when it comes to oil choices

 

$33 with UPS return labels but my Amsoil dealer off the Cruze Forums paid $15 of that. That $25 for BSL doesn't include TBN, you have to pay an additional $10 for just that additional test where the other company includes that plus a few other items omitted from BSL.

 

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/oil-analysis-services/oil-analyzers-test-kit-ups-pre-paid/?code=KIT02-EA&zo=5224266

 

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm172/cumminsdieselfreak/12%20CRUZE-080616-1.jpg

 

[Mike07LGT]

Thats great info! Thanks for sharing merc!

[stanjk3]

I drive around 8K miles/ year, change my oil every 6 months. I run T6 5W-40 in the summer & fall, M1 0W-40 in the winter & spring.

 

Supposedly M1 0-40W recently changed their formula, it's no longer certified for BMWs. Though since I change it every 4K miles not 10-15K miles, I'm not worried. Haven't noticed any difference in the 2 months I've been running it.

[Merc6]

I ran the M1 0w-30 up until the turbo accidentally it's self. I'm using Amsoil break in for the 1st few changes then Ill see after that. It's not a DD so I expect to hit max time vs miles on the changes.

[stanjk3]

Was in Wally world last weekend to get some Rotella T6, then I looked at the label and noticed it's no longer certified for gas engines. Checkout the different labels on the 1 gallon jug vs the 1 quart bottle. No more SM certification. They added CK-4, which is the latest diesel certification.

IMG_20170226_180758 by Stan Kumiega III, on Flickr

 

So the question is did they not bother to get the new T6 5W-40 SM/SN certified because they now have a T6 5W-30 multi vehicle formula, or does the new T6 5W-40 not meet SM/SN certification?

 

They didn't have any of the new T6 5W-30, but their website says it meets both Ck-4 and SN (amongst others) certifications.

http://rotella.shell.com/products/shell-rotella-t6-multi-vehicle-5w-30-full-synthetic-heavy-duty.html

[sigmafour]

It's not "No longer certified for gas" as of old it was never certified for gas engines... Rotella T6 was always a diesel oil but worked out well on our cars. They just produced a new formula for gas engines under the same name. What you have there is a bottle from one and a bottle from the other! You have one of each type of T6 there, the 5W40 one is for diesel engines but would be the only T6 oil I would put in my car.

 

Press release for July 2016

http://rotella.shell.com/media/2016/shell-lubricants-announces-shell-rotella-portfolio.html

 

and it says "introducing a Shell ROTELLA T6 Multi-Vehicle 5W-30 which will meet API CK-4 and API SN standards allowing its use in both diesel and gasoline engine"

 

and thus there is a new bottle. But I prefer to keep killing my cats with the 5W40 stuff.

 

http://rotella.shell.com/products/shell-rotella-t6-multi-vehicle-5w-30-full-synthetic-heavy-duty/_jcr_content/pagePromo/image.img.800.jpeg/1480547302817/rotella-t6-multi-vehicle-engine-oil.jpeg

 

[Sparkey]

These cars should not be left to warm up for minutes. Start it, drive it.

 

Can you please explain that? I just cant see how that would ever be good.

[Motomatt]

What you have there is a bottle from one and a bottle from the other!

 

Look again - both of those are the 5W-40. The quart bottle is the older one.

 

It's not "No longer certified for gas" as of old it was never certified for gas engines... Rotella T6 was always a diesel oil but worked out well on our cars.

 

And look once again at the photo he posted - the older T6 indeed carried a SM classification. The new ones doesn't specify either SM or SN. It was probably added more recently, just as the JASO MA/MA2 was.

 

Given that they retained JASO MA/MA2 on the new one, I believe this basically means it is SM/SN as well, as I think SM/SN or equivalent is a precursor for MA/MA2.

[Motomatt]

Can you please explain that? I just cant see how that would ever be good.

 

It's generally never good to let any modern engine sit to warm up. Engines are best warmed up by gentle driving.

 

One explanation, there are plenty more out there:

[stanjk3]

Although the old Rotella (1qt bottle) was made primarily for diesel engines, it also had SM certification so it was safe to use in gasoline engines. The new Rotella (1 gallon jug) doesn't have SM/SN certification or say anything about being safe to use in gasoline engines.

Both bottles in my picture are T6 5W-40.

[Sparkey]

It's generally never good to let any modern engine sit to warm up. Engines are best warmed up by gentle driving.

 

One explanation, there are plenty more out there:

 

I guess thats what I get for thinking I know things. Saves me a bit of money too because now I have a reason to not get a remote start!

 

Not knowing that made me re-think what I know about oils. The "Diesel oil not for Gas engine" had me wondering why that would ever be. Push come to shove, they are both lubricants, and one I feel is built for more sever duty (diesel).

 

http://articles.sun-sentinel.com/1986-11-05/features/8603080352_1_diesel-oil-engine-deposits-gasoline States that due to emissions, diesel oils dont make the gas engine rating. However it then states that its because of the deposits between the two engines and how well the oil removes those that it fails the emissions rating. I wish it would go further into that because it makes me wonder - just because it lubricates properly, is it leaving the engines more dirty? Anyone torn them apart? I would be super curious to see an OA on the two blends of T6 to see this. I dont feel a need to stop using T6 at the moment (its in everything I own currently) because its still rated for JASO-MA, so OBV its still OK for gas in some respect, but it does raise some questions...

[08 LGT]

It's generally never good to let any modern engine sit to warm up. Engines are best warmed up by gentle driving.

 

One explanation, there are plenty more out there:

 

Yes, the only exception would be to let it idle briefly if the car is in extremely cold weather and hasn't been run for a few days. By "briefly", I mean like 30 seconds to a minute, just enough to get some oil flowing since most of it will have drained into the pan after the car sits for several days.

 

Otherwise, modern cars do not need to be "warmed up". That's a vestige practice from the days of carburetors. Just keep the RPMs under 2500 or so until the "cold" light turns off and the car is at operating temp.

[08 LGT]

You have one of each type of T6 there, the 5W40 one is for diesel engines but would be the only T6 oil I would put in my car.

 

Any specific reason? I won't switch until I see some used oil analysis', but it's hard to imagine the new gasoline formulation would have any negative impacts. If it's a similar formula but optimized for modern gasoline engines (many of which are turbocharged in this day and age), I'd wonder if it could turn out to be even better.