Jump to content

No crank no start what else do i try?

Recommended Posts

So the other night my car wouldn't start at the hamburger shop (it was snowing at the time), I tapped it with a breaker bar and it started and got me home. Next morning same thing - no start, and it doesn't even turn the motor. I don't hear a click, but there is a soft whine for a few seconds (fuel pump I assume) when the key is turned to on.


I've checked:

- engine turns freely with breaker bar on crank bolt

- under dash starter fuse

- clean terminals

- voltage drop from battery + to starter terminal (0.1v with key turned to start)

- signal wire voltage with key turned (approx 12.x volts)

- removed the starter and hooked it to the battery with jumper cables, then shorted the signal pin to 12v. The gear spins and moves forward into position.

- short the singal pin from the starter to 12v with a new wire with it in the car (eliminate ignition/clutch circuit) - no crank


The battery voltage was reading 12.3v with nothing running so I took it back to walmart (it has a sticker reading 9/14 on it so still under warranty - although I didn't buy the battery so I have no receipt). The tester said "Charge required" so they put it on to charge for about an hour (until they closed at 9pm). The new test slip says: voltage 13.06v measured: 586 CCA Rated: 650 CCA Temp: 78F but I did not witness them do this test.


I brought the battery home and had it inside at about 70F for about a day before taking it out to the car. When i put it back in the car the voltage was down to 12.5v but I attempted to hook it up anyway, still no crank. Now it is showing 12.45v.


Is this battery dead? Is 586 CCA from a 650 rated battery too low to start my car? Are Walmart lying to me to attempt to not honor the warranty? Does anyone have experience with walmart's battery warranty?


I have the starter out of the car and am prepared to attempt a re-grease/rebuild but I don't know if I should bother if it's turning well hooked direct to the battery. Is it possible for it to look good with no load but fail under load when connected?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Park safety switch on an auto

Clutch switch for a manual


Wouldn't it still crank when I run a wire from the battery + direct to the signal pin on the starter then?


It is a manual. When i try to start it without foot on the clutch, the radio stays on. With my foot on clutch, the radio turns off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I pulled the starter apart and a bunch of black powder (clutch material?) came out. So I cleaned out the inside and re-greased it according to the guide. I put it back in the car and it cranked!


After I had put the intercooler back on and reattached the battery though, it would no longer crank. I finally got a chance to jump start it and again nothing. The solenoid on this model is not easy to disassemble, so I guess I'm spending today looking for a new starter that doesn't cost $320 like the dealer wants. Any recommendations?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No should be about 120 bucks or so. I bought one a while back. Didn't both sending the old one back for the $20 core. That's the one I used for the pictures in the starter thread.




305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.


Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites


This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use