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No crank no start what else do i try?


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So the other night my car wouldn't start at the hamburger shop (it was snowing at the time), I tapped it with a breaker bar and it started and got me home. Next morning same thing - no start, and it doesn't even turn the motor. I don't hear a click, but there is a soft whine for a few seconds (fuel pump I assume) when the key is turned to on.

 

I've checked:

- engine turns freely with breaker bar on crank bolt

- under dash starter fuse

- clean terminals

- voltage drop from battery + to starter terminal (0.1v with key turned to start)

- signal wire voltage with key turned (approx 12.x volts)

- removed the starter and hooked it to the battery with jumper cables, then shorted the signal pin to 12v. The gear spins and moves forward into position.

- short the singal pin from the starter to 12v with a new wire with it in the car (eliminate ignition/clutch circuit) - no crank

 

The battery voltage was reading 12.3v with nothing running so I took it back to walmart (it has a sticker reading 9/14 on it so still under warranty - although I didn't buy the battery so I have no receipt). The tester said "Charge required" so they put it on to charge for about an hour (until they closed at 9pm). The new test slip says: voltage 13.06v measured: 586 CCA Rated: 650 CCA Temp: 78F but I did not witness them do this test.

 

I brought the battery home and had it inside at about 70F for about a day before taking it out to the car. When i put it back in the car the voltage was down to 12.5v but I attempted to hook it up anyway, still no crank. Now it is showing 12.45v.

 

Is this battery dead? Is 586 CCA from a 650 rated battery too low to start my car? Are Walmart lying to me to attempt to not honor the warranty? Does anyone have experience with walmart's battery warranty?

 

I have the starter out of the car and am prepared to attempt a re-grease/rebuild but I don't know if I should bother if it's turning well hooked direct to the battery. Is it possible for it to look good with no load but fail under load when connected?

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Park safety switch on an auto

Clutch switch for a manual

 

Wouldn't it still crank when I run a wire from the battery + direct to the signal pin on the starter then?

 

It is a manual. When i try to start it without foot on the clutch, the radio stays on. With my foot on clutch, the radio turns off.

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I pulled the starter apart and a bunch of black powder (clutch material?) came out. So I cleaned out the inside and re-greased it according to the guide. I put it back in the car and it cranked!

 

After I had put the intercooler back on and reattached the battery though, it would no longer crank. I finally got a chance to jump start it and again nothing. The solenoid on this model is not easy to disassemble, so I guess I'm spending today looking for a new starter that doesn't cost $320 like the dealer wants. Any recommendations?

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No should be about 120 bucks or so. I bought one a while back. Didn't both sending the old one back for the $20 core. That's the one I used for the pictures in the starter thread.

 

 

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=subaru+legacy+starter+2005&tbm=shop

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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