SweetJustice Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 The local Subie shop quoted me over $1000 to replace my condenser coil, so I bought a tester and confirmed that the leak is in the evaporator. Now that I've confirmed they're not only pirates, but that they're incompetent pirates, I figure I may as well make good use of my unemployed status and swap it out myself. Given the OEM part is almost $500 and I can do an aftermarket for 1/10 that, I'll be taking the cheap route. Any particular gotchas to watch out for? Specific bushings or o-rings to have on hand before starting? Also, I've never disassembled my dash before, and I can't find an '06 service guide. Would it be closer to the '05 or the '07? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 Welcome to the forum, this will help. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ For dash removal... check out the interior forum there's a thread there about the dash rattle. trying to get it but having trouble getting to it now. damn laptop, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/correct-way-fixing-dash-rattle-take-apart-took-me-9-87104.html 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydrvr Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 I took the dash out of my bugeye last year. I was really intimidated but the FSM does a good job of laying things out step by step. Went much faster than I anticipated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SweetJustice Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 For anyone coming this way later on, the hardest part was that the evaporator coil is held on by two nuts and a bolt. The upper nut is deeeeeeep in a well, obstructed by the main structural bar across the dashboard. The stud protrudes too far to get a socket over it, and there isn't enough room to get a deep socket in there. Nightmare! I managed to do it only by stacking up a socket, a hex-bit adapter (fitted loosely into the end of a socket to provide room for the stud), and a right-angle bit-driver. Also, a steady stream of cursing for about 15 minutes seemed to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SweetJustice Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 Also, be very generous with the refrigeration oil when you reassemble the O-ring fittings. My reassembly left a leak at one of the o-rings. I eventually took it to an AC specialist shop, and the guy there told me that it's pretty common to have o-rings roll over a bit if they aren't quite lubed enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasted Potential Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 Not sure what the labor is on it, but I bet it can't be any harder than removing the dash on a foxbody mustang. That was ANNOYING. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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