m sprank Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 Let me know if you want to sell them. I dont even recall what I paid. But if I can get the GB price (which I also dont recall), I am happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitrzac Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 $200ish... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horizontal Opposition Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 06 5EAT, 75K, bone stock.... Now before I get to adding power I was interested in the Hex Mods Valve Body Upgrade. Can anyone post before and after datalogs that prove faster shifts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 Apparently I paid $239 delivered for the bushings. Cover my cost and they are yours. Otherwise, they go for sale listed in the classifieds with most of the other parts I took off the car prior to trade in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 06 5EAT, 75K, bone stock.... Now before I get to adding power I was interested in the Hex Mods Valve Body Upgrade. Can anyone post before and after datalogs that prove faster shifts? It works. If you need more "proof" than that, stay stock and stay happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freaksavior Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 ^ There's a youtube video too of it shifting pretty quick at redline. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horizontal Opposition Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 It works. If you need more "proof" than that, stay stock and stay happy. Thanks for the response, I know you've had a couple 5EATs from doing my research. What I'm really after here is getting some data together so that people like me that don't know anyone local and haven't felt the difference can feel confident in making the purchase. I feel like that can only help Hexmods. Since I'm bone stock, I will use my Tactrix cable over the next couple days to capture shift times and analyse them for a bone stock car. I was thinking of getting the best resolution by just logging rpm vs. time stamp. If anyone can think of any other parameters that would be good, let me know. Then if anyone with a valve body upgrade can do the same we can have a good comparison... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 Its not about shifting faster. Its about holding more power. Any faster shift is a benefit, but not the original intention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The 2Fiver Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 87K on my '08 5EAT. 10k or so at OTS Stage 2 and no slippage. Hoping to get custom Stage 2 done soon. Big difference between OTS and custom? (Plan to use BrenTuning) The custom map is a huge improvement over Cobb's base map for stage 2. The 5EAT is especially smooth with more power between shifts when driving around normally. Datalog 8 is WOT 3rd gear on Cobbs 91 stage 2. DL 1 is the same scenario with a custom map revision. The E coloumn is Boost and 0 is RPM. Both pulls ~13 degrees C and 94 octane Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 Figured Id post this here instead of getting lost in the WDYD to your Outback or my build thread. Installed a Perrin trans mount today on my 5eat Outback. Did not "fit" quite as easily as the Perrin rep assured me it would prior to my purchase. But it's in there and it's solid. Havent driven the car yet.. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 (edited) I LOVE this trans mount! Such a direct feeling. It used to feel like it had a lot of slop. Definitely an increase in NVH. Slight whine when coasting to a stop. I also did a Perrin dog bone at the same time and I have Group N motor mounts. Everything vibes like crazy, but I love it. Cant wait to finish with the rear subframe rebuild and dial in my RT tables. Eyeballing some local 5eats for sale. May do a rebuild and a hexmods VB for spring time. Edited October 22, 2016 by cBax '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 (edited) pooop. Pretty sure I need to get on that new trans purchase asap. Slipping fairly bad in 3rd, manual mode. And there are times I'm getting a violent shudder around 4-4.5k. Car was way up to temp for a while, but my trans temp gauge was hovering around 140 when it slipped badly. After it came up to 160ish, it seems to be holding, but I still get the occasional violent shudder. Its an 05 OBXT w/ forged pistons, VF52 peaking at 21, FMIC, DW1000s, DW300c, inlet, intake, DP, catback. The intake, injectors, pump, catback and FMIC were just put on within the last month and I (was) starting to dial it in. Edited October 24, 2016 by cBax '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Too much torque from the VF52. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Pretty much matches symptoms here http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/engine-shudder-shaking-violently-under-wot-acceleration-150988.html Im looking at a local 80k 5eat to put a valve body and diff bearings in. Hoping that would be enough to satisfy me for a little while. Just concerned about buying an unknown trans. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 aaaand reading this http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jayrex-5eat-rebuild-251969.html I did a full rebuild on a TH400 a few years ago. It's still sitting in the corner next to that project. But it wasn't a hard project. Just a lot of little stuff. hmm '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starionesir Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 cBax what mount did you get? I don't see any mounts for the 5EAT on perrins site. My stock mount is starting to wear out. I do have a insert but the factory rubber is just old and cracking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojon Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 218,000 on my 5EAT. All original internals, Hexmods Valvebody at 140,000. Went Stage 4+ at 140,000 also. No additional cooler, fluids changed every 35,000 or so. Still holds 22psi daily and works brilliantly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Jesus! Also, where can you get the hexmods now? Also, is the Perrin pitch mount worth it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 I bought the 5/6spd perrin mount because the Perrin rep said it would work. All you have to do is drill two holes in the crossmember, remove the trans mounting plates from the mount and drill 4 holes in the stock mount with no rubber. Then mount the Perrin piece to the stock metal. Certainly solidifies the driveline and you will feel everything. I also did the Perrin pitch stop at the same time. Then the trans died. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 .......that's unfortunate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Feeling everything is not always a good thing. Solid mounts are not always a good thing. If its not a full track car (race only) I would not even consider solid mounts. Even on our full track cars, we dont use all solid mounts. There is a time and a place for everything. Application specific, not daily driver. I would recommend a new OEM mount and re-using your insert. I did just that on my own 08 5EAT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Would you recommend the pitch mount? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 The Perrin piece isn't solid. It's got poly bushings in it. Things not moving around is typically better, no? I couldn't care less about NVH. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 Would you recommend the pitch mount? Not unless you are launching the car. Things not moving around is typically better, no? I couldn't care less about NVH. Sometimes yes, sometimes no. There are instances where "play" is your friend. Caring less about NVH is a good way to destroy a car. There are vibrations that alert you to an impending catastrophe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 Not unless you are launching the car. Sometimes yes, sometimes no. There are instances where "play" is your friend. Caring less about NVH is a good way to destroy a car. There are vibrations that alert you to an impending catastrophe. I autox the car, but most of the times, it's the daily driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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