LV, how do I....

[MaStaMooN]

So a couple weeks ago I found a few vacuum leaks and got those buttoned up... Last weekend I pulled off a rattling exhaust shield since when I first got btssm working it was picking up knock, here is the first learning view from around that time but before pulling the shields. . The second one is from today with the shield removed.

 

Im not 100% sure how to interpret these and I'm hoping you guys can take a look, let me know what you think and if I need to do some logging, which parameters I need to log using btssm or rom raider.

 

Thank you in advance.

 

FYI, the car runs pretty good.. Finding the turbo to intercooler flange leak really made the car drive much better.

 

First:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/b8v8s0zgrimhh27/BtSsm_LV_20160819_0745.png?dl=0

 

Second:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sk5pfc9ytyxnxc7/BtSsm_LV_20160826_1458.png?dl=0

 

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[whitrzac]

You still have a vac leak somewhere.

 

 

It's pulling timeing at 4000rpm at all engine loads for some reason. It seems really odd...

[whitrzac]

Did you reset the ecu by pulling the positive battery cable or using a reset ecu function in the AP/tatrix?

[MaStaMooN]

Is that more prevalent in the first or second LV?

 

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[MaStaMooN]

Did you reset the ecu by pulling the positive battery cable or using a reset ecu function in the AP/tatrix?

No, didn't reset anything... Figured it would figure everything out itself.

 

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[serx7]

You'll need to drive into the affected load/rpm ranges often enough and/or long enough for the ECU to start trying to add timing back to the areas that have those learned timing corrections applied. Depending on your driving style it could take a little while, unless you drive into those load/rpm ranges deliberately to see if the ECU is able to add the timing back in.

 

Alternatively you could reset the ECU but if the currently stored corrections are from previous actual knock events (as opposed to false knock from things like rattling heat shields) and what you've changed has not actually remedied the underlying issue, you could experience additional real knock, which of course would not be good.

[MaStaMooN]

I did another vacuum/boost leak test on my car the best I could.. By blowing into the bypass valve tube and pressurizing, holding for a few seconds and listening, then letting go and making sure I hear air coming back out.

 

I also use a air mattress inflator with an adapter to blow into this line for constant flow so I could spray soapy water everywhere to look for bubbles.

 

Can't find any leaks at all really.. Nothing in sight, no hissing, plenty of pressure coming out after the 'blow' test... Uhhh... TWSS!

 

anyway, this is my latest learning view before finally just resetting the ecu then taking it for a drive. Then a learning view after the drive. Looks better obviously but I'm sure this isn't 'accurate'.

 

What else can I look at? Bad maf? I recently sprayed it with maf cleaner. Still leaking somewhere?

 

Thanks for looking!

 

 

 

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[serx7]

after the ecu reset, how long did you drive (and was it more or less steady state cruising w/o much change in throttle position) and how long was it allowed to idle after getting up to operating temp?

 

the only trim that seems to have moved was the idle trim (1A) and while 6.8 might be higher than ideal, that value, if it doesn't continue to increase w/ some more time idling time, isn't so bad. if it marches on up to what it was before you reset the ECU, it would still seem to indicate a leak somewhere.

 

fwiw when my car had a small leak, the 1A trim would climb to the tune's max positive value of 15% during just ~2 min of idling once the car was fully warmed up. the presence of my leak was also pretty clear bc just blipping slightly and then letting it return to idle was a choppy affair regardless of whether the car was warmed up or not.

[MaStaMooN]

I drove around my neighborhood at pretty much steady state for probably 5 minutes, then got in the main road and did a quick run through 1-3 to just about redline, then back into the neighborhood to my house.

 

Idled a but before and after also. Car has group n engine mounts so idle is always a little rough for me so I can't really judge if it's running rough or not lol.

 

Thanks for the info. I'm gonna let it go this week and check the LV as the week progresses.. If its crap again, I'll have to pull the intercooler off and really give it a hard look.

 

Car has 120k on it.. Is there any indication this could be an o2 sensor or maf?

 

I can log using btssm also, if a log would help diagnosing.

 

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[cryo]

I would still bet there is a leak honestly. You may want to have a professional smoke test done. The car is still pulling timing as well even after the IAM has dropped down which is not good.

 

Maf is a possibility but normally that will show drinability issues as well. Go ahead and clean the maf with maf sensor cleaner and check the resultschedule

 

Hope this helps

 

Dave

[serx7]

I noticed that bn your original LV from your OP and the LV you posted before your very recent ECU reset, your IAM had dropped to 0.875. That might have been from various low load knock you were seeing or it might have been from higher load knock. The only real way to catch stuff like that is to be logging 100% of the time while driving and reviewing the large log files afterward. Alternatively you could log full time and only review the logs if regularly checked LV shows that things have changed for the worse.

 

MAF can degrade over time so it's possible it's contributing to your issues. The one that was on my car was at least 3-3.5 yrs old, since I bought the car ~3.5 yrs ago and had not changed the sensor myself. For all I know it was original w/ the car which had 156K+ mi on the chassis when I bought it. This past Spring my OL AFR would start to drift rich over a period of a couple weeks after a MAF cleaning (my fuel trims would start drifting more and more negative too). After seeing that happen after 2 consecutive MAF cleanings, I replaced the sensor. It's been a couple months since the replacement and the problematic AFR/trims behavior appears to have been fixed.

[MaStaMooN]

Ok, LV for a week of driving after resetting my ecu last weekend. Looks better, not sure if still have a minor leak somewhere or this is just tune related. Also have a cold start log.. Idk if it will show anything. Tapatalk won't let me attach the log from my phone.. I'll do it on my pc tomorrow.

 

 

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[MaStaMooN]

Put it on Dropbox... https://www.dropbox.com/s/hjbedq84qlcoavf/BtSsm_20160911_125833.csv?dl=0

 

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