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2005 Legacy GT Back to Life Thread


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any updates Max.. I'm in about the same exact boat you are..

Just bought Mechanics Special ( I'm a drafter not a mechanic ) Trying to split the engine trans now.

Hey man,

 

Sorry no updates as of now, I haven't been down to the cities for 2 months because school has been crazy busy. I am planning on heading down veterans day weekend so I'll have an update in the next couple of weeks. Good luck with your build!

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Hey all!

 

Finally made some awesome progress this weekend on the lgt! The motor is offically out of the car and on the stand!

 

For the current diagnosis of why it was knocking is a spun rod bearing on cylinder #3. With any luck that is the only thing that is wrong.

 

Uploading a few images from the phone so we'll see if they upload or not. More photos to follow!

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161113/c3fef7e83ef08e9be2e6d1cd9500e8db.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161113/270c2ff56a334b58714a436acdd6ce8b.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161113/8b76483debb7e52a1b8823de0e656964.jpg

 

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See the pictures in my click here link to see how I put the engine back together to put it in.

 

I think you may have taken to much off in the car.

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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See the pictures in my click here link to see how I put the engine back together to put it in.

 

I think you may have taken to much off in the car.

Ill take a look at your photos! Yea I probably did take too much off while the motor was in the car, but it did make a ton of room to pull the motor [emoji12] Either way it all has to come appart in the end.

 

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What are your plans for doing header up and down pipes?

 

I've been tossing and around the idea of building a set of jigs and building my own.. I'm cheap like that these aftermarket exhaust prices are obscene.

 

 

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The stock exhaust is fine unless your looking for big HP.

 

There is a thread here recently where someone removed all the heat shields and ground off those mounting tab's and then heat wrapped it. it looked good.

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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What are your plans for doing header up and down pipes?

 

I've been tossing and around the idea of building a set of jigs and building my own.. I'm cheap like that these aftermarket exhaust prices are obscene.

 

 

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Most likely going to do an invidia catless downpipe and an invidia catless up pipe, since the cats in the up pipes are known for nuking and taking turbos with them. Ive got an invidia catless on my sti currently and it is fantastic. Excellent build quality and sounds really nice!

 

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Another question for all of you that I keep finding conflicting information on.... What is the torque limit of the 5 speed in the 05 lgt? I've seen threads of guys running 400awhp without issues and have read about guys nuking gears at stock power. I'm assuming its on all how you drive the car, launching it etc. Knowing the 5speed lgt trani shares similar thicker gears as the 04-06 sti, I do plan to autox and possibly road course the car once it's running again and the power goal im shooting for is around 400awhp to possibly 450awhp. Is that seriously playing with borrowed time or is it safe to say as long as I don't drive it like an asshat, ie launching it all the time the trani won't nuke? Just trying to get some insite since the build is coming near a decision point on what direction to go for power.

 

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I'm one of the few that have and love the Moore Performance Blast plates. They make every shift so much cleaner. I highly recommend them if your like to "drive the car".

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Form having them on for a while now, I'd have to agree. You may have read how they make the 2nd to 3rd shift smooth and clean, it no longer fights going into 3rd at high rpm

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Form having them on for a while now, I'd have to agree. You may have read how they make the 2nd to 3rd shift smooth and clean, it no longer fights going into 3rd at high rpm

Whats your opinion on trying to have 400awhp to 450awhp with the blast plates? Think the trani will nuke?

 

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IIRC they've been tested north of 600WHP.

 

You should be fine.

 

What he said, that's why they made them. They keep the two piece case from flexing, well at least they try and keep them from flexing. I can't guaranty they are 100%. Talk to Moore Performance if you have any questions.

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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IMHO the TQ limit is partly the 5 speed but also the R160 diff. It's weak and if you launch it hard you can break it. I replaced the 5 speed and R160 in my LGT race car for a 6 speed + R180 not so much for the stronger tranny but the stronger diff.

 

If you AutoX the car just be careful on your launches off the line. Drag race starts are fun but can be expensive.

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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The stock exhaust is fine unless your looking for big HP.

 

There is a thread here recently where someone removed all the heat shields and ground off those mounting tab's and then heat wrapped it. it looked good.

 

Sounds like my rebuild... it looks good from a distance at least :lol:

I'm sure it's been done many times before me so you may be thinking of someone else.

5202716c03b6d89a8a0d93bfdbbef06f.thumb.jpg.8d99b249b76a227ac31467c3271fa63d.jpg

Edited by StkmltS
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Sounds like my rebuild... it looks good from a distance at least :lol:

I'm sure it's been done many times before me so you may be thinking of someone else.

 

Thanks for posting that photo. I have a hard time remembering all the threads that have such good pictures and ideas.

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 1 month later...

Finally had some time to wrench on the motor for the lgt. Being it's winter in Minnesota and like 6 degrees out, didnt last too long outside in the unheated garage. Hit a road block now....The crank pulley bolt is not budging at all. Ive tried heating it with my map torch, hitting it with my impact , and my 24 inch breaker bar and still wont budge. Looks like its time for the grimmspeed crank pulley removal tool....On the plus side grimmspeed is very local to me, so I wont have to wait for shipping!

 

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  • 1 month later...
Finally tearing into the motor! Exhaust manifold is off (had to cutoff wheel all of the heatshield bolts-gotta love Minnesota rust) [emoji35] , uppipe, timing components are off. The cam gears are a real pain in the a**. Bought the company 23 tools and they're not budging with a breaker bar or even an impact gun. Read on nosaic that most people just drill the heads off the bolts to relieve the stress and they pretty much fall out. Will give it a try. Cams look really good so far so hopefully the cam journals will be intact also and not any bearing material inside the heads. 20170218_134900.thumb.jpg.c784123e250406d538d0f507a35a614a.jpg

20170218_134851.thumb.jpg.5f4a4f5f7c74e71f40f90c5f4dfc0b90.jpg

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I wouldn't drill them out until you've stripped the hex heads out trying to turn them. Once they are stripped use the Outfront method of welding an axle nut and impact gun. If your impact is not doing the job now you need to borrow a more powerful impact gun.

 

If you screw up the drilling you will be buying new cams.

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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I wouldn't drill them out until you've stripped the hex heads out trying to turn them. Once they are stripped use the Outfront method of welding an axle nut and impact gun. If your impact is not doing the job now you need to borrow a more powerful impact gun.

 

If you screw up the drilling you will be buying new cams.

Only tried drilling drilling 1 of them so far, while preserving the hex portion on the bolt. One of the exhaust gear bolts finally came out, so 3 are still on the motor. If I do continue to drill I'd only be drilling just enough to relieve the stress on the head of the bolt, not all the way into the treads on it. The cams shouldn't be harmed

 

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Also I took another look at the oil pickup tube (found out it was a killer B) there was a bunch of bearing coating and material on the screen. I seriously think that it saved the top end of the motor from more damage. Ill post a photo of the chunks later on!

 

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Another method you can try to get them off is a bolt extractor. It worked great for me. Of course you would need new bolts if you go this route.

 

7bd17916c231f249874bb6997b2274b7.jpg

 

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Hmm, I'll look into that, bolts are pretty cheap like 7$ at the dealer. Thanks!

 

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