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Brandon's 2007 spec.B build v.2.0


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I sold my 2007 spec.B last year to fund a new project. My plan was to take a 2nd gen, swap an STI drivetrain in and make 500 whp. In the planning stages of this build I got the opportunity to buy my old car back, so I did. Figured I might as well take it to the next level rather than start over with a new car.

 

The old build thread is here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2007-spec-b-467-454-stock-location-gtx3576r-217245.html

 

Here's a vid of the car's best pass: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVQ4eP8Dbqk

 

Best MPH was 128.

 

I'm a poor driver and could never manage a good 60' :redface:.

 

New Build Plans and Goals

 

600+ whp. 135 mph traps. No easy task at 4200' ASL.

AC and PS delete. ABS and battery relocation. I'm trying to get as much room in the engine bay as possible.

Shortblock rebuild with Manley I-beams.

Ported and polished heads and +1mm valves.

NA Legacy intake manifold, reversed if I can get it to fit. Might even go with a Process West.

ETS 4" FMIC and new tubing

Killer B DIY Holy Header

Not sure on turbo yet. Either PTE6266, GTX3582 or try FPs new XR 78-64.

ID 1300s and DW300c. New fuel rails and adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

 

Current Mod List

 

Engine:

 

Machine work and assembly done by Metric Motors in Centerville, Utah

New case halves

New heat treated crank

K1 connecting rods

Wiseco pistons

Supertech +0.5mm SS intake and Inconel exhaust valves

GSC S2 cams

Brian Crower valve springs and Ti retainers

TiC FU cam bolts

ACL bearings

ARP L19 headstuds

11mm oil pump

Killer B oil pan, pickup, and baffle

Fluidampr crank pulley

Air pump delete

TGV delete

Air conditioning delete

Power steering delete

PCV delete

Evap delete

Outfront Motorsports alternator relocation bracket

Vented, baffled catch can with -12 lines to valve covers and crankcase

Infamous Performance filtered turbo oil line modified to fit rotated turbo

Subtle Solutions radiator shroud

Redline 5w30 motor oil

 

Drivetrain:

 

ACT HDSS pressure plate

ACT sprung organic clutch disc

ACT monoloc collar

ACT Prolite flywheel

Beatrush forged pitch stop

Beatrush motor mounts

Beatrush transmission mount

Kartboy shifter bushings

Torque Solutions aluminum carrier bearing support bushings

Cobb short shifter

Perrin reverse lockout collar

TiC shifter linkage bushings

TiC transmission crossmember bushings

Whiteline rear diff outrigger bushings

Whiteline rear diff subframe mount inserts

SS clutch line

Kinetic Motor Works clutch master cylinder brace

Redline 75w90NS and Redline MTL mixed 1:1 in transmission

Redline 75w90 in rear end

 

Intake/Exhaust:

 

Forced Performance HTZ3586R 78 lb/min turbo

Garrett T3 0.82 turbine housing

Ported 2.5i short runner intake manifold

KSTech 6.5mm phenolic spacers

Boomba 75mm DBW throttle body

AEM dryflow conical air filter

4" MAF sensor housing

Custom made 4" turbo inlet

ETS 4" FMIC with custom tubing

eBay EL header

Custom made uppipe

Custom made 3" downpipe

Invidia Q300 catback

TiAL Q BOV

TiAL MV-R wastegate

Hallman MBC

PTP turbo blanket

Thermal Zero uppipe blanket

 

Fuel/Ignition/Tuning/Electrical:

 

Cobb Accessport V3

Self-tuned hybrid SD/MAF with Accesstuner Race

ID1300 injectors

DW300c fuel pump

Snow Performance methanol injection

Battery relocated to trunk

Taylor NHRA legal sealed battery box

1/0 welding cable for battery relocation

Summit Racing vehicle kill switch

COSMO Racing ignition coils

NGK LFR7AIX spark plugs 0.026" gap

Omnipower 4-bar MAP sensor

GlowShift shift light

Innovate MTX-L wideband datalogged through left TGV sensor

Innovate MTX-D boost gauge

 

Suspension/Steering/Brakes/Chassis:

 

BC BR coilovers

Manual steering rack conversion

2008 STI solid steering linkage

Whiteline roll center correction kit

Whiteline rack and pinion bushings

Moog inner tie rods

Whiteline 22mm non-adjustable front swaybar

Whiteline 20mm adjustable rear swaybar

Whiteline adjustable front and rear endlinks

Whiteline front control arm bushings

Whiteline front control arm caster/anti-lift bushings

Whiteline rear upper control arm bushings

Whiteline rear lower adjustable control arms

Whiteline rear toe lock bolt kit

Whiteline rear trailing arm bushings

Whiteline rear lateral link outer bushings

Whiteline 2008 WRX rear subframe bushing inserts modified to fit Legacy

Ultimate Racing front subframe brace

Ultimate Racing rear lower bar

AVO rear sway bar mount reinforcement brackets

AVO rear underbody braces

Grimmspeed master cylinder brace

SS brake lines

ABS module relocation

Satin Enkei EKM3 18x7.5

Nankang NS-2R 225/40-18

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:munch:

But ya know, I always kinda wonder why folks turn these spec.Bs into track monsters, seeing how rare they are and how cheap a regular LGT is...shoot, you could even start with a 2.5i for this kind of build.

I put something here like all the cool people, except there's nothing cool to put here.
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Well, 2007+ specs have the strongest drivetrain of all the Legacys. A used 6 speed and rear end are pricey. Not a big deal if you're starting with a $1000 car, but it adds a lot to the bottom line of a build that the car costs $5-10k.
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Nice! awesome you got to buy it back! Atleast you know what the guy paid for.

 

-Brian

 

Haha, yeah, he definitely couldn't try to scam me on it. I sold it to a friend, so it was an easy deal both ways.

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  • 1 month later...

Got a few more things done.

 

Power steering and AC are gone. Removed the meth injection system, a bunch of gauges, and installed an Innovate MTX-D boost/shift light to go with my MTX-L wideband. These are the only two gauges I have now.

 

Next will be to relocate the ABS, install an Outfront Motorsports alternator relocation bracket, move the battery to the trunk, and redo the crankcase ventilation system. I'm going to install a battery sized vented catch can in place of the battery and run six 3/4" hoses from the valve cover and block ventilation ports.

 

Once all this is done I'll make the switch to VP110 race gas and get out to the last few races this year. The major work will be happening next year.

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Meth systems are great and I've used them for years, but there are downsides to it.

 

They require an extra system that is outside of the ECU's ability to control. This means they tend to not be set it and forget it like a fuel injection system is. Modern intake manifolds aren't designed for droplets to be flowing through them, so there are cylinder to cylinder distribution issues.

 

I've always preferred all the fuel to be going through the injectors. This makes it easy to control fuel flow for all conditions.

 

With that said I've been contemplating reinstalling the system after weighing the cost to power gained from race gas. C16 or Q16 are too expensive since I still plan on driving this car on the street from time to time. VP110 is the only reasonably priced race gas and I won't be able to make more power with it than the meth injection. I can get a 5 gallon bucket of methanol for $20 and it lasts me months since I mix it with water.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The guys I work with always ask me if I get off on pics of car parts when they catch me looking at them at work. I tell them I do and it's great because I can look at porn at work and not get in trouble :D

 

Definitely need to thank m sprank at Infamous Performance for the Whiteline bushings. Ordered on Wednesday arrived on Friday. Excellent deal with the 15% off during July and free shipping.

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More pics and progress. Relocated ABS, SS brake lines installed, moved some intercooler pipes around (I can get to my oil cap now!), new bumper, new grill, and went back to a stock radiator to free up some more room in front of the engine. All I did was work on this damn thing all weekend.

 

ABS relocation was much easier than I thought. I bought a bunch of tubing and fittings thinking I'd be making all new lines. The factory lines are so twisted up that you can just straighten them out and they'll reach up by the fender. Pleasant surprise. It's certainly not the prettiest since it's almost impossible to get them completely straight, but it works and didn't require cutting any lines.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Suspension work has been progressing nicely. A broken knuckle has kept me from getting everything finished up. I have access to a full shop with everything you could ever need to work on a car and those front ball joints were one of the most frustrating things I have ever done. Then, just when I think I have them beat, the passenger side knuckle breaks as I'm tightening the pinch bolt :mad:.

 

Disassembled the steering rack and made it a manual rack by removing all the power goodies in it and welding the quill solid. It feels really, really good now. Nice and tight with no play at all.

 

New knuckle and Whiteline rear adjustable control arms go in on Friday and then I'll finalize the ride height and get it aligned.

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  • 2 weeks later...

More stuff.

 

Got the suspension done and aligned. Car is rock solid. Definitely too stiff to daily drive, but it is nice to drive it for a bit and then put it away once I get tired of it.

 

While I was finishing up the suspension I had a bunch more stuff show up. Avo underbody braces, Beatrush motor, trans, and pitch stop mounts, some Kartboy endlink rebuild kits, Motul gear oil for trans and rear end, Torque Solutions driveshaft carrier bearing mounts, and the solid steering linkage from an STI.

 

I also got some sheets of 1/4" rubber that I'm going to use to create a shroud around the FMIC and the sides and bottom of the radiator. Any air that goes in the bumper or grill openings will have to pass through the heat exchangers as there will be no other path to take. I'm going to use a Subtle Solutions radiator shroud to keep the air from escaping out the top in front of the radiator.

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Got my radiator and intercooler shrouded today. There were pretty big gaps around them and I got them sealed up pretty good. I used some rubber sheets I bought off ebay and used velcro to attach the rubber to the car. The velcro allows me to easily remove the shrouding when I remove the bumper or radiator.

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I was cleaning up my Group N motor mounts when I noticed one had failed. They are only around 2 years old. If you plan on making power plan on some stronger mounts than these.

 

Anyways, today I started project ground clearance. Ever since dropping the car with the coilovers the cutout has been scraping on everything. When I installed the Invidia Q300 I removed the e-cutout valve I had and just capped the cutout for possible future use. I took a bunch of pics of cutting it out and welding in a new section of pipe as well a pic of the shop I work in.

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  • 9 months later...

Got an update. Car is still running great. I got bored with the 3576 and decided to send it off to Forced Performance for an HTZ3586 wheel upgrade. I wasn't ready to drop $2k+ on a brand new turbo, so this should hold me over for a bit.

 

I'm waiting for a few couplers to show up and should have it installed and tuned this coming week. I'm hoping for 130+ MPH traps in the middle of summer. Maybe, just maybe with some good driving I can pull off a 10 second pass.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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