My Logs

[GrasshopperLGT]

I've been on this site and others for a long time. Had the Accessport for couple months and decided to do some data logs (now I'm lost). Now I have some logs done and have seen some knock. I need to still go to Tuning School 101 and when I look at these logs I am lost. Even after reading many posts about how to read them. I almost need some one to explain what I am looking at with these.

 

My car is a 05 LGT 5 speed manual. 120K miles. Rotella T6 Oil changes every 3k. Only mods - cobb short throw w/ bushings and the OTS stage 1, 93 map on the V3 Accessport. Need to do the UP pipe next. Got the car about 1.5 years ago and everything appears original - turbo, entire exhaust, everything....but the passenger side front CV axle does look newer. I replaced the ball joints (yeah that was a fun day). Tranny/TC has that bearing whine to it.

 

Goals - Keep the thing running well.

 

3 & 4 was when my first WOT runs.

 

10 & 11 was driving around

 

Any help would be much appreciated and big thanks for your time.

datalog3.csv

datalog4.csv

datalog7.csv

datalog9.csv

datalog10.csv

datalog11.csv

[05legacygtr]

I dont know much yet either(this forum has helped a lot though), but I typically set up 6 gauges on my AP to monitor A/F learning 1, Boost, ignition Timing, Feedback knock, fine knock learning, and switch off between DAM and EGT's(if I'm overboosting which doesn't happen often I'm looking to see if my EGTs are safe >1300 and if I'm not hitting target boost I dont worry about EGT's and try to look for a leaks/monitor DAM). The main ones I usually look at are Ignition Timing, Feedback Knock, Fine Knock Learning and DAM. Between those(assuming you dont have any rattling or any massive boost or vacuum leaks affecting your Fuel trims) you can usually determine if you are seeing real or false knock.

 

If I am only seeing feedback knock and nothing else I usually write it off as false knock(since if it was happening frequently enough to pull timing it would have likely also showed up as a learned correction). But if I see a combination of large negative values for Feedback knock(larger than say -3), the same large values in Fine knock learning, Ignition timing getting pulled, and my DAM dropping below 1 than I'll try resetting the ECU and let the car idle waiting for my AF learning values to get back to what they were before the reset and try using a higher octane fuel(93 instead of 91 by adding approx 4-5 gallons of 100) to see if it mitigates the knock corrections.

 

If knock is considerably less than I email my tuner about 3 30 second data logs (they will tell which parameters to log) and wait for a revised map that will likely pull some timing.

If it stays the same I email my tuner about 3 30 second logs lol.

 

Knock is tough to track down. I notice often times it happens when my auto trans takes a little longer to lock up then usual on cold mornings or on tip in sometimes it will pull a couple degrees from a dead stop but a degree here and there hasn't caused anything catastrophic for me in the 12k I've put on my car since my tune if that helps you any. And I don't know much about reading data logs other than it doesn't look like you have much knock. Hope this helps; just keep reading that's what i'm doing.

[Tuning Alliance]

I've been on this site and others for a long time. Had the Accessport for couple months and decided to do some data logs (now I'm lost). Now I have some logs done and have seen some knock. I need to still go to Tuning School 101 and when I look at these logs I am lost. Even after reading many posts about how to read them. I almost need some one to explain what I am looking at with these.

 

My car is a 05 LGT 5 speed manual. 120K miles. Rotella T6 Oil changes every 3k. Only mods - cobb short throw w/ bushings and the OTS stage 1, 93 map on the V3 Accessport. Need to do the UP pipe next. Got the car about 1.5 years ago and everything appears original - turbo, entire exhaust, everything....but the passenger side front CV axle does look newer. I replaced the ball joints (yeah that was a fun day). Tranny/TC has that bearing whine to it.

 

Goals - Keep the thing running well.

 

3 & 4 was when my first WOT runs.

 

10 & 11 was driving around

 

Any help would be much appreciated and big thanks for your time.

 

 

Running the ots maps aren't the greatest, they've been known to knock (as youre seeing), pull timing. They are made to work on a number of different vehicles, and not specifically tailored to your vehicle and how it behaves

 

Send us a PM and we can set you up with a proper etune .

 

-Brian

[doobaruGT]

Hard to add to what's been said, so I'll reiterate. Get a good tune that works for your setup like Brian said. That will help you kick the knock. Each knock is a step closer to ringland failure. GL!

 

BTW, do you always drop the hammer when you casually drive around?

[GrasshopperLGT]

Running the ots maps aren't the greatest, they've been known to knock (as youre seeing), pull timing. They are made to work on a number of different vehicles, and not specifically tailored to your vehicle and how it behaves

 

Send us a PM and we can set you up with a proper etune .

 

-Brian

 

Thank you for the reply! I do plan on getting a etune very very soon!!

 

Hard to add to what's been said, so I'll reiterate. Get a good tune that works for your setup like Brian said. That will help you kick the knock. Each knock is a step closer to ringland failure. GL!

 

BTW, do you always drop the hammer when you casually drive around?

 

Around my area of PA it's hard NOT to... But I try (seriously try) not to drive 95% of the time spirited lol

 

I dont know much yet either(this forum has helped a lot though), but I typically set up 6 gauges on my AP to monitor A/F learning 1, Boost, ignition Timing, Feedback knock, fine knock learning, and switch off between DAM and EGT's(if I'm overboosting which doesn't happen often I'm looking to see if my EGTs are safe >1300 and if I'm not hitting target boost I dont worry about EGT's and try to look for a leaks/monitor DAM). The main ones I usually look at are Ignition Timing, Feedback Knock, Fine Knock Learning and DAM. Between those(assuming you dont have any rattling or any massive boost or vacuum leaks affecting your Fuel trims) you can usually determine if you are seeing real or false knock.

 

If I am only seeing feedback knock and nothing else I usually write it off as false knock(since if it was happening frequently enough to pull timing it would have likely also showed up as a learned correction). But if I see a combination of large negative values for Feedback knock(larger than say -3), the same large values in Fine knock learning, Ignition timing getting pulled, and my DAM dropping below 1 than I'll try resetting the ECU and let the car idle waiting for my AF learning values to get back to what they were before the reset and try using a higher octane fuel(93 instead of 91 by adding approx 4-5 gallons of 100) to see if it mitigates the knock corrections.

 

If knock is considerably less than I email my tuner about 3 30 second data logs (they will tell which parameters to log) and wait for a revised map that will likely pull some timing.

If it stays the same I email my tuner about 3 30 second logs lol.

 

Knock is tough to track down. I notice often times it happens when my auto trans takes a little longer to lock up then usual on cold mornings or on tip in sometimes it will pull a couple degrees from a dead stop but a degree here and there hasn't caused anything catastrophic for me in the 12k I've put on my car since my tune if that helps you any. And I don't know much about reading data logs other than it doesn't look like you have much knock. Hope this helps; just keep reading that's what i'm doing.

 

Thanks for your reply. I monitor basically the same. My DAM has never gone below 1. I really am looking at the etune route. I didn't want to be running this long on a OTS map. I still need to put in the up pipe and will probably put on a downpipe as well at the same time. But before I will be installing I will be contacting someone to be doing the etune.

 

So much info on the internets!

[Tuning Alliance]

Thank you for the reply! I do plan on getting a etune very very soon!!

 

 

 

Around my area of PA it's hard NOT to... But I try (seriously try) not to drive 95% of the time spirited lol

 

 

 

Thanks for your reply. I monitor basically the same. My DAM has never gone below 1. I really am looking at the etune route. I didn't want to be running this long on a OTS map. I still need to put in the up pipe and will probably put on a downpipe as well at the same time. But before I will be installing I will be contacting someone to be doing the etune.

 

So much info on the internets!

 

 

DP will def help out!

 

-B

[05legacygtr]

Thank you for the reply! I do plan on getting a etune very very soon!!

 

 

 

Around my area of PA it's hard NOT to... But I try (seriously try) not to drive 95% of the time spirited lol

 

 

 

Thanks for your reply. I monitor basically the same. My DAM has never gone below 1. I really am looking at the etune route. I didn't want to be running this long on a OTS map. I still need to put in the up pipe and will probably put on a downpipe as well at the same time. But before I will be installing I will be contacting someone to be doing the etune.

 

So much info on the internets!

If at all possible I would go with a dyno tune. They are usually better at calibrating your engine anddd a dyno tune usually includes a road tune afterwards to make sure everything runs well when the rubber meets the road. But whatever your budget allows. good luck.

 

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